Brake servo & Master Cylinder Mounting plate
Discussion
Wow what an exciting title to a thread 
Only remembered this when i was about to put my engine back in.
On its removal one of the studs which the brake servo bolts onto sheered off.
Ive been trying to work out how this whole plate fits to the bulk head.
Weather its just welded (Please this one) or if its held in place by the studs which look like they have been pushed through from inside the car.
Does anyone have any idea what im talking about????
Thanks
Edited to say that it is also the top part of the bracket for the engine tie bar
>>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Monday 10th May 17:26
Only remembered this when i was about to put my engine back in.
On its removal one of the studs which the brake servo bolts onto sheered off.
Ive been trying to work out how this whole plate fits to the bulk head.
Weather its just welded (Please this one) or if its held in place by the studs which look like they have been pushed through from inside the car.
Does anyone have any idea what im talking about????
Thanks
Edited to say that it is also the top part of the bracket for the engine tie bar
>>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Monday 10th May 17:26
Didn't get a chance to look last night as a friend came round to my house, drove up my drive and broke a manhole cover, dropping his front wheel in, with all the bits of cast iron at the bottom and in the proverbial (yes, really!). That took some time to sort out, as you can imagine. I'll try to remember to do it tonight,as I'm going to be fitting an 'S' engine I've just built for someone onto the box, so I'll be in the workshop all evening.
Peter
Peter
It was a big AA recovery wagon so no real damage to the truck, just my manhole cover!
He had called round to collect a Maniflow exhaust system for his son's Mini - a 3-box system which after 4 rallies became too noisy to pass scrutineering, but fine for a road car. Another freebie for the youngsters.
Incidentally, I had a strange failure on the East Anglian Classic Rally last Saturday. I lost all the gears on the second speed test and the cause was a broken gear selector shaft. Mine is a 1964 car and has the knuckle joint gear linkage above the diff housing. One of the knuckle joints is at the top of the shaft which goes down into the box and this shaft sheared off just above where it goes into the gearbox casing. I've never had this happen before, ever.
It's easy to fix, about 15 minute; that is, once the engine & box are on the bench. Ah, well, here we go again.
He had called round to collect a Maniflow exhaust system for his son's Mini - a 3-box system which after 4 rallies became too noisy to pass scrutineering, but fine for a road car. Another freebie for the youngsters.
Incidentally, I had a strange failure on the East Anglian Classic Rally last Saturday. I lost all the gears on the second speed test and the cause was a broken gear selector shaft. Mine is a 1964 car and has the knuckle joint gear linkage above the diff housing. One of the knuckle joints is at the top of the shaft which goes down into the box and this shaft sheared off just above where it goes into the gearbox casing. I've never had this happen before, ever.
It's easy to fix, about 15 minute; that is, once the engine & box are on the bench. Ah, well, here we go again.
"Hold on, I've got an idea" (heard that before!)
Why not drill out the old stud, then drill two more 3/16" holes, diagonally opposite each other about 025" from the edge of the bolt hole. Now get a piece of steel plate, say 14 swg (0.048") thick and 1" x 1". Drill a hole right in the centre and weld your 5/16" bolt to replace the original right in the centre of the plate. Place the bolt through the hole where you drilled the old one out and hold the plate up to the underside of the cross member. Now plug weld through the 2 x 3/16" holes and grind the plug welds flush. A lick of paint and no-one will ever know it's been repaired.
Posting so late as I've been fitting the flywheel and clutch to a 1310 cc Cooper 'S' engine I'm building for one of Chris S's customers with a 1965 Cooper 'S'.It's going together nicely. I also drilled and fitted the dowels to locate the inlet manifold to the head as the locating rings no longer fit due to the opened out inlet ports. Tomorrow I'll put the head on. the trouble is I keep finding I'm short of bits, despite the fact that the chap whose car it is was sold a complete engine in bits (oh, yeah, if you like). It gets frustrating having to keep searching my stores for bits.
Why not drill out the old stud, then drill two more 3/16" holes, diagonally opposite each other about 025" from the edge of the bolt hole. Now get a piece of steel plate, say 14 swg (0.048") thick and 1" x 1". Drill a hole right in the centre and weld your 5/16" bolt to replace the original right in the centre of the plate. Place the bolt through the hole where you drilled the old one out and hold the plate up to the underside of the cross member. Now plug weld through the 2 x 3/16" holes and grind the plug welds flush. A lick of paint and no-one will ever know it's been repaired.
Posting so late as I've been fitting the flywheel and clutch to a 1310 cc Cooper 'S' engine I'm building for one of Chris S's customers with a 1965 Cooper 'S'.It's going together nicely. I also drilled and fitted the dowels to locate the inlet manifold to the head as the locating rings no longer fit due to the opened out inlet ports. Tomorrow I'll put the head on. the trouble is I keep finding I'm short of bits, despite the fact that the chap whose car it is was sold a complete engine in bits (oh, yeah, if you like). It gets frustrating having to keep searching my stores for bits.
Hey Peter
didnt get anything fixed over the weekend because my new welder didnt turn up!!!
Your new idea sounds good (I think i fully understand)
Can I get away with plug welding without plug weld pliers?
Is Plug welding where you weld through a hole to a plate below?, well that does make sense.
didnt get anything fixed over the weekend because my new welder didnt turn up!!!
Your new idea sounds good (I think i fully understand)
Can I get away with plug welding without plug weld pliers?
Is Plug welding where you weld through a hole to a plate below?, well that does make sense.
Yes, Dave, plug welding is where you drill holes in one component and weld through the hole to the second component. It's especially useful if you don't have a spot welder or can't get spot welder access.
My entire roof on the Red Cooper 'S' is plug welded from where Chris and I welded on a new roof panel after I rolled it in Wales some time ago (trying too hard again!).
If you drill the bolt out, then drill a few extra holes about 5 mm dia around the bolt hole, get a steel plate about 35 mm dia, weld the bolt through the centre and push the bolt, with its mounting plate up through the undrside of the hole. Then, if you put a couple of washers and a nut onto the bolt this will pull the plate up hard into contact with the 5 mm holes and you can plug weld through. Then grind back flush to allow the plate to sit flat, paint it and it's as good as new.
My entire roof on the Red Cooper 'S' is plug welded from where Chris and I welded on a new roof panel after I rolled it in Wales some time ago (trying too hard again!).
If you drill the bolt out, then drill a few extra holes about 5 mm dia around the bolt hole, get a steel plate about 35 mm dia, weld the bolt through the centre and push the bolt, with its mounting plate up through the undrside of the hole. Then, if you put a couple of washers and a nut onto the bolt this will pull the plate up hard into contact with the 5 mm holes and you can plug weld through. Then grind back flush to allow the plate to sit flat, paint it and it's as good as new.
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