Removing power steering = more power
Discussion
Can anyone enlighten me, surely removing the power steering on a car will remove the work done by the engine in running it, hence more power for the wheels?
I've got a Pug 106GTi with electric power steering, therefore I presume there is increased load on the alternator which is in turn increased drag on the engine. Anyone any thoughts?
Also, presumably I would have to swap to a non-power steering rack, or could I remove the pump and keep the original rack? I'm guessing it would be super-hard to turn without the pump?
I've got a Pug 106GTi with electric power steering, therefore I presume there is increased load on the alternator which is in turn increased drag on the engine. Anyone any thoughts?
Also, presumably I would have to swap to a non-power steering rack, or could I remove the pump and keep the original rack? I'm guessing it would be super-hard to turn without the pump?
A friend of mine used to race an MG Maestro. He fitted a trick switch that only allowed the alternator to function when under braking, thus the engine power was used for acceleration, and the alternator took power to recharge the battery when braking. The battery would just about last one race before needing a proper recharge.
the company you search for is Van Aaiken developments, they do indeed do a kit that shuts off the altenator when Wide Open Throttle is sensed.
So, when the car is subjected to extremes of throttle i.e overtaking the altenator drops out allowing a few more precious ponies to run freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
So, when the car is subjected to extremes of throttle i.e overtaking the altenator drops out allowing a few more precious ponies to run freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
I always understood that the most efficient way to improve a cars relative performance was to reduce its weight i.e. increase its power to weight ratio cheaply and easily.
I know that once down that road even a standard battery weighs too much and a tiddly one will have to do. I just hope you don't spin and have to restart again too soon after the intial cranking though .
harry
I know that once down that road even a standard battery weighs too much and a tiddly one will have to do. I just hope you don't spin and have to restart again too soon after the intial cranking though .
harry
deltaf said:
Only gets used when parking. At higher engine speeds the pump is powered down/back to give better feel.
Not worth the effort.
Also, the alternator wont supply the current for the pump, the battery will, the alternator just tops the battery up.
HTH
Effectively the alternator supplies the entire electrical system when the engine is running. You don't even need a battery to keep the engine running.
Mr2Mike said:
deltaf said:
Only gets used when parking. At higher engine speeds the pump is powered down/back to give better feel.
Not worth the effort.
Also, the alternator wont supply the current for the pump, the battery will, the alternator just tops the battery up.
HTH
Effectively the alternator supplies the entire electrical system when the engine is running. You don't even need a battery to keep the engine running.
By the same token, you can run 'most' cars on just the battery. I have heard of some electrics not liking this though, so wouldn't use it on your daily driver.
Gary
battery voltage, varies with load, under high load, e.g. cranking the starter motor the voltage across the terminals drops.
most car batteries have about 12.5v across the terminals without heavy load when good (it drops over time as they wear out).
the alternator however generates power between 13.5-14v, this is much better for high power drain systems eg electric power steering. as it will pull less current at these voltages.
most car batteries have about 12.5v across the terminals without heavy load when good (it drops over time as they wear out).
the alternator however generates power between 13.5-14v, this is much better for high power drain systems eg electric power steering. as it will pull less current at these voltages.
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