Chainring question.
Discussion
Hey guys 
.
I have a Kona Hoss at the moment that I am looking at turning into more of a Street/jump-esque type bike and move it away from its XC roots.
Not mine, but fairly similar, it already has a fairly substantial frame and Dirt focused forks, so it should be able to cope with a few drops etc here and there.
The first thing I would like to tackle is changing the front chainrings from a 3 chainring and derailleur (sp?) setup to a single front chainring and no front gearing.
I confess, I don't know much about bikes past the basics, so would be very greatful if someone could tell me how would be easiest as well as cheapest to get this done?
Is it a case of getting a whole new chainset, or would I be able to simply get rid of the 3 chainrings, keep the cranks and put a single chainring on, then get rid of the derailleur?
TIA!
Doodles.
.I have a Kona Hoss at the moment that I am looking at turning into more of a Street/jump-esque type bike and move it away from its XC roots.
Not mine, but fairly similar, it already has a fairly substantial frame and Dirt focused forks, so it should be able to cope with a few drops etc here and there.
The first thing I would like to tackle is changing the front chainrings from a 3 chainring and derailleur (sp?) setup to a single front chainring and no front gearing.
I confess, I don't know much about bikes past the basics, so would be very greatful if someone could tell me how would be easiest as well as cheapest to get this done?
Is it a case of getting a whole new chainset, or would I be able to simply get rid of the 3 chainrings, keep the cranks and put a single chainring on, then get rid of the derailleur?
TIA!
Doodles.
It's been years since I've done this myself, but I would assume the same still applied...
The absolute cheapest way to go single chainring up front (providing you have a half decent chainset which is bolted together with chainring bolts) is to remove the two you don't want from your current chainset. You can then lock the front mech out using the Hi and Lo screws and it acts as a free chain guide (no front shifter required).
You can still use the standard chainring bolts too with the help of a few washers to space things out, though I'd say that if you're using the bike as a jump bike, a bash guard wouldn't go a-miss - you can get (or at least used to be able to) ones that bolt to where the old big chainring used to be, with the single chainring that's left being where the old middle chainring was.
While you're at it, you may want to look at an intermediate-toothed chainring - a 32 (normal middle ring size) is a bit small for most things, and a 44 (normal-ish big ring size) is a bit big - a 36 or 38 tooth ring would probably do nicely.
Obviously, the proper way of doing it is to get a proper chainguide/device - unfortunately I am so out of the loop on these though I wouldn't know where to start!
The absolute cheapest way to go single chainring up front (providing you have a half decent chainset which is bolted together with chainring bolts) is to remove the two you don't want from your current chainset. You can then lock the front mech out using the Hi and Lo screws and it acts as a free chain guide (no front shifter required).
You can still use the standard chainring bolts too with the help of a few washers to space things out, though I'd say that if you're using the bike as a jump bike, a bash guard wouldn't go a-miss - you can get (or at least used to be able to) ones that bolt to where the old big chainring used to be, with the single chainring that's left being where the old middle chainring was.
While you're at it, you may want to look at an intermediate-toothed chainring - a 32 (normal middle ring size) is a bit small for most things, and a 44 (normal-ish big ring size) is a bit big - a 36 or 38 tooth ring would probably do nicely.
Obviously, the proper way of doing it is to get a proper chainguide/device - unfortunately I am so out of the loop on these though I wouldn't know where to start!
Edited by ccr32 on Tuesday 18th January 17:31
Yes for that type of riding the easiest & cheapest solution would be to buy a set of single chainring bolts (which are shorter than standard), remove inner & outer rings and just keep the 32t middle chain ring where it is.
Lose the left shifter but if the chain keeps coming off you may want to either refit the front mech as a chain guide or fit a chain tensioner to keep it in place.
I sometimes use a single 36t chainring + 11-34 cassette off road though a 34 + 11-36 would be better for more climbing.
Would be best if your frame was a little 'under size' for that type of riding too.
Lose the left shifter but if the chain keeps coming off you may want to either refit the front mech as a chain guide or fit a chain tensioner to keep it in place.
I sometimes use a single 36t chainring + 11-34 cassette off road though a 34 + 11-36 would be better for more climbing.
Would be best if your frame was a little 'under size' for that type of riding too.
Roman said:
Would be best if your frame was a little 'under size' for that type of riding too.
Excellent!Well those were the responses I was hoping for!
Yeah my frame is a little on the big side, (18 inch) but I'm still able to manoeuvre round the bike fairly well, so figured it would be worth a try at least to get back into street/Dj'ing, rather than have all the gear and no idea when I start learning again.
I also have some new disc pads, set of Knogs for night fun, some street tyres and a nice new chain on the way
. Edited by doodles19 on Tuesday 18th January 18:13
doodles19 said:
BliarOut said:
You'll need a puller to get the cranks off!
erm... sorry to be stupid, but whats that.To get them off you need a special tool called a crank puller.
It screws into the threads on the crank and then you twist it so it pushes against the spindle.
With some grunt, it will eventually force the crank to slide off the spindle.
Looks like this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
I haven't done what you are proposing, but just thinking through it quickly in my head, I am not sure why you would need to take the cranks off though.
Why not just undo the chainring bolts and remove the chainrings you don't want, leaving the cranks in place?
Perhaps they get trapped on the crank...
BliarOut said:
You'll need a puller to get the cranks off!
Not necessarily. If you have an external bottom bracket (bearings sit in cups outside the frame) you won't need a crank puller. If it is an old cartridge style b/b with tapered ends (b/b bearings are inside the frame) then more than likely you will. If its octalink (shimano's improvement on squatre tapered b/b) you might get way with waggling the cranks a bit to loosen them, but more than likely will still probably end up needing a puller.What age Kona Hoss is it and do you know if the b/b is external?
You can buy chainguides to replace the front mech too which will basically hold your chain on the chainring no matter what.
The only problem with waggling is you can damage the taper by the time they give up and come off. As an example I used a ball joint splitter to try and get a taper crank apart on a shed of a bike the other week and it was having none of it.
If you've got a thread in the crank arms and can see a square when you remove the retaining set screw you'll need a puller if you want to get the chainwheel off. Mine only cost about £7.00 and made light work of it.
If you've got a thread in the crank arms and can see a square when you remove the retaining set screw you'll need a puller if you want to get the chainwheel off. Mine only cost about £7.00 and made light work of it.
chrisga said:
BliarOut said:
You'll need a puller to get the cranks off!
.What age Kona Hoss is it and do you know if the b/b is external?
That is the closest description of the specs I can find unfortunately, everything seems similar minus the fact I have Hayes Nines and Truvativ cranks.
It is the 2007 model, don't know wether that helps?
Edited by doodles19 on Tuesday 18th January 22:47
Right.
So i got the biggest chainring off with minimal fuss.
However, the second obviously wont fit past the chainring fittings on the crank, so I think I need to get the crank off
.
I was hoping from this photo you guys might be able to suggest a single chainring I can put back on?
I will need to get some of those single chainring bolts as well.
Sorry for being useless at this as well as the s
tty iphone photos, I'm here to learn though!
TIA
Doodles.
So i got the biggest chainring off with minimal fuss.
However, the second obviously wont fit past the chainring fittings on the crank, so I think I need to get the crank off
.I was hoping from this photo you guys might be able to suggest a single chainring I can put back on?
I will need to get some of those single chainring bolts as well.
Sorry for being useless at this as well as the s
tty iphone photos, I'm here to learn though!TIA
Doodles.
Edited by doodles19 on Tuesday 18th January 22:52
I *think* you'll need a crank extractor to remove that sort of crank arm - a Truvativ from that era is likely to be what's known as "ISIS" type, and you'll need a crank extractor. Sorry, can't link to anything on shopping sites due to work internet restrictions but hopefully someone else can.
I'd start by using your existing middle chainring, but refitting it with some singlespeed bolts (search on ebay - a bloke called Charlie The Bike Monger will definately sell them).
You'll be able to shorten the chain a bit too to lessen the chances of it jumping off (although still ensure it's long enough to go around the biggest cog on the cassette).
Also, Dirt magazine this month has a great article about 1 x 10-speed gear systems and the benefits. Worth a read. I'll probably change from my 2x9-speed set-ups to 1x10-speed setups when my components next wear out.
HTH and sorry if I'm being too basic!
I'd start by using your existing middle chainring, but refitting it with some singlespeed bolts (search on ebay - a bloke called Charlie The Bike Monger will definately sell them).
You'll be able to shorten the chain a bit too to lessen the chances of it jumping off (although still ensure it's long enough to go around the biggest cog on the cassette).
Also, Dirt magazine this month has a great article about 1 x 10-speed gear systems and the benefits. Worth a read. I'll probably change from my 2x9-speed set-ups to 1x10-speed setups when my components next wear out.
HTH and sorry if I'm being too basic!
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Par...
Looks like it might do the job!
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-chain-ring-bolts...
Looks like it might do the job!
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-chain-ring-bolts...
Edited by doodles19 on Wednesday 19th January 11:59
noone986s said:
If you are never going back you could always cut the smaller ones off with a hacksaw or grinder Butchery I know, but I may, or may not, have done the same when I converted to single speed 
I thought about this, but how would I get one back on?! Butchery I know, but I may, or may not, have done the same when I converted to single speed The middle ring is about the sort of gearing I'm going for I think, and if that doesn't come off surely I'm a little stuck.
Depends on what you choose, but I got one of these to fit over the crank arms.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
For the price of that removal tool I would recommend you wait for the right toolkit. I am just too impatient
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
For the price of that removal tool I would recommend you wait for the right toolkit. I am just too impatient
Seriously, get a crank extractor - they're tuppence for a cheap one that will do the job, or the one that I've got from Halfrauds which is a copy of a Park version was only about 15 notes.. or a tenner from CRC:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
ccr32 said:
Seriously, get a crank extractor - they're tuppence for a cheap one that will do the job, or the one that I've got from Halfrauds which is a copy of a Park version was only about 15 notes.. or a tenner from CRC:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
Yeah but will it work with ISIS fitting cranks?http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
doodles19 said:
ccr32 said:
Seriously, get a crank extractor - they're tuppence for a cheap one that will do the job, or the one that I've got from Halfrauds which is a copy of a Park version was only about 15 notes.. or a tenner from CRC:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
Yeah but will it work with ISIS fitting cranks?http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
You're bound to use it more than once so it would be a sound investment.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
Edited by ccr32 on Thursday 20th January 13:29
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