Would superglue survive engine temps?
Would superglue survive engine temps?
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Discussion

parapaul

Original Poster:

2,828 posts

214 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
Bit of a strange question, granted biggrin

In a nutshell, one of the bolt threads on my EGR valve seems to have stripped, meaning that one of the bolts which should secure it to the manifold, doesn't.

Oily black mess all over the engine mad

Anyway, rather than buying a new EGR valve, I wondered if I filled the hole with superglue, then clamped everything together while it set, would be one way of bodging it?

Even if it would hold for a week or so, it would give me time to find a replacement from a scrappy!

Stu R

21,410 posts

231 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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It'd fracture almost immediately with the vibrations I'd expect.

*Al*

3,830 posts

238 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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As above, superglue factures very easily, araldite might be better if you want to go down this route?

Chiswickboy

549 posts

204 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Plastic metal?

Drill right through and use a longer bolt with a nut on the end?

Helicoil?

A picture might help to understand how easy or difficult it is to reach.

steveo3002

10,919 posts

190 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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clean it up mint and use jb weld , its not too bad for bodging stuff up

CraigyMc

17,879 posts

252 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
steveo3002 said:
clean it up mint and use jb weld , its not too bad for bodging stuff up
A chap I know fixed a rover k-series head with a dent in it with JB weld. Afaik, it's still running properly, and totally bizarrely hasn't had an HGF.

Larry Dickman

3,762 posts

234 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
Helicoil = quick, simple, permanent, & you can remove the valve if necessary in the future without any problems.

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8833/engine...

Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 10:14

12gauge

1,274 posts

190 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
Stu R said:
It'd fracture almost immediately with the vibrations I'd expect.
Nonsense, I say go with the glue, unless youre trying to escape earths atmosphere. smile

http://www.buffalo.edu/news/fast-execute.cgi/artic...

vrooom

3,763 posts

283 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
superglue dont cope with heat too well, and vibration too.

Somnophore

1,364 posts

192 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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I'd say no, you want something like that stuff that's a putty you mix the two colours together that sets rock hard.

Vidal Baboon

9,074 posts

231 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Another one for JB Weld. I fixed a cracked exhaust manifold on an 8v Astra years ago- it's still there todaysmile

insideline

140 posts

240 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Not sure if this is suitable but might be worth a try, it doesn't go rock hard when set so might resist vibrations better than some of the other suggestions http://sugru.com/.

HTH

Eggman

1,253 posts

227 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
The only thing that superglue works really well on is skin. Good if you run an A&E department, pretty useless anywhere else.

parapaul

Original Poster:

2,828 posts

214 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for all the suggestions smile this is the part in question:



The holes on the front of the part are what we're talking about. I'll see if I can find some of this JB weld stuff, but I've also found a used EGR on evilbay for a smidge over a tenner, so that's possibly a safer alternative biggrin

Edited by parapaul on Sunday 12th December 19:38

Larry Dickman

3,762 posts

234 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...

I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.

ETA.. I've just noticed that your above post. Yes, go for the second hand valve for a tenner. A far better option than putting a load of crap around your valve then having the excess break off the inside & getting sucked into your engine.

Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 20:12

parapaul

Original Poster:

2,828 posts

214 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
Larry Dickman said:
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc. vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...

I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
Go on then, I'm listening... ears

How do they work? I'm guessing a hole drilled, then the helicoil screws in anticlockwise instead of clockwise?


Chiswickboy

549 posts

204 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
JB Weld (plastic metal as I described it earlier) may be OK short term but it is quite soft and will not take any large load. You need to let it set for at least 24 hours. I have used it to block holes in bike engines but not had much success with using it to repair screw threads for more than a couple of days. Possibly best to wait for your evilbay bargain to arrive (presuming you don't need to use your car in the meantime).

If you are desperate then find a similar size but longer bolt long enough to go right through the hole and out the other side. Drill out the remaining thread and through the casting and then use the longer bolt with a nut on the end.

HTH

Larry Dickman

3,762 posts

234 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
quotequote all
parapaul said:
Larry Dickman said:
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc. vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...

I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
Go on then, I'm listening... ears

How do they work? I'm guessing a hole drilled, then the helicoil screws in anticlockwise instead of clockwise?
I just edited my post smile I'd go for the second hand one for a tenner.

Yes you drill a hole with the drill that comes supplied, then you tap the hole with the tap supplied which is really easy in that alloy, all you need to do is make sure that it is straightish. Then using the tool supplied screw in the coil, it can only go one way, then just break off the tang at the bottom using the tang removal tool & a hammer which is also easy.

Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 20:19