Homebrew - Hints & Tips?
Discussion
I've just taken the plunge and bought some homebrew stuff from Tesco's.
So far i've got:
Fermentation bucket
'John Bull' IPA
Syphon
Steriliser
According to the instructions this is all I need, but is there anything I should buy that will make things easier or make the end result much better?
I am thinking about buying a heat mat so I can regulate temperature much better, by how much does temp affect the outcome?
On a slightly different subject, i'd like to alter the flavour of some dark rum by adding vanilla and maybe a pinch of cinnamon. Ideally I want to buy a still and distill my own, but I think experimenting with cheap dark rum first is probably the best idea.
Anyone tried doing this before? I plan to drop a whole vanilla pod into a 35cl bottle of dark rum, along with some cinnamon, leave to stand for 14 days and then filter to leave hopefully a re-usable vanilla pod (they're bloody expensive for what they are) and a bottle of rum with hints of vanilla and cinnamon.
Any advice welcomed!
So far i've got:
Fermentation bucket
'John Bull' IPA
Syphon
Steriliser
According to the instructions this is all I need, but is there anything I should buy that will make things easier or make the end result much better?
I am thinking about buying a heat mat so I can regulate temperature much better, by how much does temp affect the outcome?
On a slightly different subject, i'd like to alter the flavour of some dark rum by adding vanilla and maybe a pinch of cinnamon. Ideally I want to buy a still and distill my own, but I think experimenting with cheap dark rum first is probably the best idea.
Anyone tried doing this before? I plan to drop a whole vanilla pod into a 35cl bottle of dark rum, along with some cinnamon, leave to stand for 14 days and then filter to leave hopefully a re-usable vanilla pod (they're bloody expensive for what they are) and a bottle of rum with hints of vanilla and cinnamon.
Any advice welcomed!
I've never bothered with a heat mat, but I have an understanding wife who lets me have half the airing cupboard when I brew. You might want a hydrometer (so you can tell when the brew has reached the correct gravity).
You'll also either need lots of bottles or a pressure barrel (I'd recommend the barrel) and patience, you'll need to let the fermented beer have it's secondary fermentation (in the bottles or the barrel) for at least another month (preferably 3+ months).
Also, if you want something tasting half decent, ditch the John Bull and go for something like Hambleton Bard or Woodfords (or one of a million other decent kits).
You'll also either need lots of bottles or a pressure barrel (I'd recommend the barrel) and patience, you'll need to let the fermented beer have it's secondary fermentation (in the bottles or the barrel) for at least another month (preferably 3+ months).
Also, if you want something tasting half decent, ditch the John Bull and go for something like Hambleton Bard or Woodfords (or one of a million other decent kits).
Ok, the reason I went for the John Bull was that it was the only IPA in Tesco's (and it's all the same company available in there - Youngs). I've just found a homebrew store local to me so i'll pop down there in a bit and have a browse. A hydrometer is definitely on the shopping list, but as we don't have a warm airing cupboard I think i'll end up buying a heatmat.
As for flavour mixing - thats not in the homebrew, it's for a dark rum. I'm quite happy to leave the homebrew flavours exactly as they come out of the tin!
What sugar can I use in homebrew?
As for flavour mixing - thats not in the homebrew, it's for a dark rum. I'm quite happy to leave the homebrew flavours exactly as they come out of the tin!
What sugar can I use in homebrew?
I personally dont think that they need a month after bottling/ barreling.
I ferment for a week then rack to secondary leave for another week, rack to priming bin (with priming sugar added) and then bottle. they are then fine to drink after 1 week. better after 2 or 3 though.
The only extra advice i can give you is to have a load of ice in the freezer ready for the brewing process. then you can cool the fermenting bin down quickly in an ice bath ready for pitching the yeast. this improves the clarity quite a bit and also means you can pitch the yeast earlier.
I would also look at proper partial mash/extract kits from places like brew.co.uk still easy for the first timer but miles better than the just add water kits. You will need a large stock pot though (10 litres+)
I ferment for a week then rack to secondary leave for another week, rack to priming bin (with priming sugar added) and then bottle. they are then fine to drink after 1 week. better after 2 or 3 though.
The only extra advice i can give you is to have a load of ice in the freezer ready for the brewing process. then you can cool the fermenting bin down quickly in an ice bath ready for pitching the yeast. this improves the clarity quite a bit and also means you can pitch the yeast earlier.
I would also look at proper partial mash/extract kits from places like brew.co.uk still easy for the first timer but miles better than the just add water kits. You will need a large stock pot though (10 litres+)
Art of Brewing Bitter makes a superb drink if put in a barrel.

Tastes as good as it looks and ferments out in about ten days on my boiler top. I do boil the wort contrary to the instructions as this achieves a 'hot break' which gives a clearer result. One kilo of sugar for forty pints and Kwik Kleer (maybe different spelling) will clear a barrel in a couple of weeks. I do not prime the barrel and it usually dispenses under its own natural condition.

Tastes as good as it looks and ferments out in about ten days on my boiler top. I do boil the wort contrary to the instructions as this achieves a 'hot break' which gives a clearer result. One kilo of sugar for forty pints and Kwik Kleer (maybe different spelling) will clear a barrel in a couple of weeks. I do not prime the barrel and it usually dispenses under its own natural condition.
you shouldnt really use sugar. most people say that you should use more extract in place of sugar- but i occasionally use sugar to increase the gravity if its lower than i expected (i sometimes do all grain and havent got my sparging very efficient yet)
if you need to use sugar- the general rule is to avoid white sugar as it can give a cidery flavour. i tend to use demorerra or dark soft if its a darker beer. if you are using it for priming bottles then make sure you boil it in a bit of water before adding it to the mix to sterilise it.
forgot to add, if you plan to bottle you should start collecting bottles now. the first time i made a brew i spent weeks trying to get bottles and then spent the day before the bottling night rushing all over the place to get enough. Was a real pain. (that is if you plan to bottle it and dont want to pay extortionate prices for empties from the brew shop).
if you need to use sugar- the general rule is to avoid white sugar as it can give a cidery flavour. i tend to use demorerra or dark soft if its a darker beer. if you are using it for priming bottles then make sure you boil it in a bit of water before adding it to the mix to sterilise it.
forgot to add, if you plan to bottle you should start collecting bottles now. the first time i made a brew i spent weeks trying to get bottles and then spent the day before the bottling night rushing all over the place to get enough. Was a real pain. (that is if you plan to bottle it and dont want to pay extortionate prices for empties from the brew shop).
I buy a lot of my stuff from brewuk. They do a lot of decent extract kits with additional hops and speciality malts you may need to do a partial mash but the results are good and its quite straightforward. Anyway here's the link to their extract kits. Every one I have done has been good.
http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/beerkits/brewextract...
http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/beerkits/brewextract...
Pete Franklin said:
I buy a lot of my stuff from brewuk. They do a lot of decent extract kits with additional hops and speciality malts you may need to do a partial mash but the results are good and its quite straightforward. Anyway here's the link to their extract kits. Every one I have done has been good.
http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/beerkits/brewextract...
That all looke very interesting, but I wouldnt have a clue where to start with any of these, do they come with instructions ?http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/beerkits/brewextract...
Any chance of a quick run down on whats required ?
Cheers
Toyless said:
That all looke very interesting, but I wouldnt have a clue where to start with any of these, do they come with instructions ?
Any chance of a quick run down on whats required ?
Cheers
They all come with instructions.Any chance of a quick run down on whats required ?
Cheers
the equipment you need is a 10litre (minimum)stock pot, thermometer, stiring spoon, muslin to make a straining bag, fermenting bin. racking cane and additional fermenting bin desirable.
partial mash goes like this: sanitise everything, bring 8l (more if stock pot allows) of water to 65-70dc, add speciality grains to muslin bag and dunk it in the water to steep for 45mins. strain grains and pour hot water over them to extract as much as possible. bring liquid to boil add extract and stir in. boil for ~1hr adding hops as instructed. strain liquid into fermenting bin. add cold water to desired level. cool liquid down as quickly as possible to about 30dc. pitch yeast and ferment as usual.
for all grain recipes you really need a larger capacity brewboiler, but the partial mash technique offers a good steppingstone from basic kits and can give some really nice results.
Edited by Pete Franklin on Thursday 21st October 21:18
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