Help with getting my griff running
Discussion
I have had just a few problems after a rebuild or two(lost compression,rebuild, lost oil pressure, rebiuild again, sent back not running) now its coming home from someone else but running very very rich, the specialist can not find out why. I have the act twin plenum, large injectors, jag air flow meter but I need to know the wiring for the airflow meter, also how to set up the variable resistor near the ecu. After 13k on the engine I really need to start saving a quid or two! So any help would be appreciated, I have hair at the moment!
Are you running lambda probes ? If so you dont need the CO trim resistor, otherwise is simply a 1k 10 turn (or more) resistor between the trim wire (blue red) and ground (red black). This will only alter the fueling up to around 2k, but beyond that you are very dependent on AFM output and mapping as the main fuel control. I do have a few working prototype circuits laying around that allow you to lift or drop the AFM output. Has this ever run correctly? If it has a "specialist" really should be able to pick up a fault code from the ECU (if it has Lambda's.) The non cat setup is harder to diagnose as you cant tell what the mixture is doing without a CO meter or rolling road, and the ECU error codes are very limited. I dont mind having a look if you are stuck,(at sensible rates!). Im near Hungerford.
Yes it runs with lamdas and was running just fine after Mark Adam set it up at tvr power. When it lost oil pressure it came back non running, my local guy got it running but can not sort the rich running, suggesting a return for a rolling road. Do you do home visits, it hasn't been driven for over a year because of these ongoing problems:
Well thanks to mark the griff was up and running in a short period of time. He came to my house, plugged in his test ecu which then used my ecu and on his lap top saw exactly what was wrong. Now on Monday I will speak to the 'specialist' who charged me nearly 400 quid to say he could not find the fault, would I be unreasonable to expect a refund ? This on top of the 900 quid I had given him for a starter motor, ignition amp and a scrape around the outriggers. He had it nearly six months but maybe I should of been a little more forceful to get it back.
It is a shame that the car came back from rebuild three not even running, would of though it reasonable to expect a very well known engine builder to at least say, it ain't running but the engine is fine now(it went in running but very low oil pressure,previous rebuild it had no compression) but I guess that's too much to ask,
The whole £13k engine rebuilds have left me extremely sceptical about anything to do with tvrs service, but nice to see a new face on the circuit, one who does not just try to rob you at the earliest opportunity.
It is a shame that the car came back from rebuild three not even running, would of though it reasonable to expect a very well known engine builder to at least say, it ain't running but the engine is fine now(it went in running but very low oil pressure,previous rebuild it had no compression) but I guess that's too much to ask,
The whole £13k engine rebuilds have left me extremely sceptical about anything to do with tvrs service, but nice to see a new face on the circuit, one who does not just try to rob you at the earliest opportunity.
David Beer said:
Well thanks to mark the griff was up and running in a short period of time. He came to my house, plugged in his test ecu which then used my ecu and on his lap top saw exactly what was wrong. Now on Monday I will speak to the 'specialist' who charged me nearly 400 quid to say he could not find the fault, would I be unreasonable to expect a refund ? This on top of the 900 quid I had given him for a starter motor, ignition amp and a scrape around the outriggers. He had it nearly six months but maybe I should of been a little more forceful to get it back.
It is a shame that the car came back from rebuild three not even running, would of though it reasonable to expect a very well known engine builder to at least say, it ain't running but the engine is fine now(it went in running but very low oil pressure,previous rebuild it had no compression) but I guess that's too much to ask,
The whole £13k engine rebuilds have left me extremely sceptical about anything to do with tvrs service, but nice to see a new face on the circuit, one who does not just try to rob you at the earliest opportunity.
Glad you seem to be getting your car sorted. I found this thread very strange as I see you as one one of the helpful guys on here and found it bizarre that none of the self proclaimed experts on here seemed to offer any help. Shirley it's not a case of the ph clique closing ranks It is a shame that the car came back from rebuild three not even running, would of though it reasonable to expect a very well known engine builder to at least say, it ain't running but the engine is fine now(it went in running but very low oil pressure,previous rebuild it had no compression) but I guess that's too much to ask,
The whole £13k engine rebuilds have left me extremely sceptical about anything to do with tvrs service, but nice to see a new face on the circuit, one who does not just try to rob you at the earliest opportunity.
Glad you got it running Dave. Seems you've had a terrible time with all these issues!
I dropped you a mail a while ago and if you ever feel like sharing a few details I'd greatly appreciate it. I can recommend a specialist who in my experience have been great at fault finding and resolution but I'm hesitant to do so in case they were one of your bad experiences! (Even though I'd doubt it)
Thanks
Dumbfunk
I dropped you a mail a while ago and if you ever feel like sharing a few details I'd greatly appreciate it. I can recommend a specialist who in my experience have been great at fault finding and resolution but I'm hesitant to do so in case they were one of your bad experiences! (Even though I'd doubt it)
Thanks
Dumbfunk
Customers pay what garages charge for their expertise and ability to get a job done. If Mark repaired the car then it was obviously possible if you know what you are doing, the garage failed because they didn't.
I would take the car back to the garage and show them it working properly, tell them how long it took to repair and how much it cost. Ask for a refund due to them not being able to do the job they charged you for (without rubbing their noses in it) - not an unreasonable request.
When they ask what the fault was tell them you have no problem explaining how it was repaired once they have refunded your money. The last thing you want to do is not get a refund and educate them for free.
Good luck with it.
I would take the car back to the garage and show them it working properly, tell them how long it took to repair and how much it cost. Ask for a refund due to them not being able to do the job they charged you for (without rubbing their noses in it) - not an unreasonable request.
When they ask what the fault was tell them you have no problem explaining how it was repaired once they have refunded your money. The last thing you want to do is not get a refund and educate them for free.
Good luck with it.
David,
I cannot believe that someone would charge you 400 quid for not fixing a fault that they said they could fix.
I must admit to almost being in the same position as you for 4 years. (yes 4 years)
I have had an intermittent fault with my Chim for nearly 4 years where the near side bank of injectors would suddenly come on full blast and flood the engine on cylinders 1,3,5,7.
This would always happen at the most irritating and inconvenient moment and would then run fine for weeks or months before it would reappear again.
I had so called experts want to replace Lambda sensors, Ignition amplifiers, ECU (silly money), and as a last resort it was explained that an air flow meter was required. (silly money)
I resisted the bull "sh*t" for 4 years as what they were saying really didn't ring true as an electronics engineer by trade who has to do fault finding for a living on far more complex kit than a bloody Range Rover ECU.
Then last Wednesday night the fault came back in Tescos car park but would not go away.
I plugged my noid light in to injector connector 1 and sure enough the noid light came on a soon as the ignition was switched on. (would normally clear after a minute or 2)
However the fault would not clear, so in desperation I disconnected 1,3,5,7 injectors and drove the car home on 2,4,6,8. (half an engine)
Then on Saturday morning I had the first chance to look at the car and blow me the fault was still there. Further investigation revealed that when I disconnected injector 7 the noid light went off.
Then with my meter I confirmed that the injector was faulty in that one pin measured 18 ohms to ground and the other was a dead short. Whereas a good injector should not have any continuity to ground at all through the metal body of the injector.
This has taken 4 years to find, for a garage to find may have cost me my house before anyone found it as it was so infrequent when the fault occurred.
Good luck in your quest.
Paul.
I cannot believe that someone would charge you 400 quid for not fixing a fault that they said they could fix.
I must admit to almost being in the same position as you for 4 years. (yes 4 years)
I have had an intermittent fault with my Chim for nearly 4 years where the near side bank of injectors would suddenly come on full blast and flood the engine on cylinders 1,3,5,7.
This would always happen at the most irritating and inconvenient moment and would then run fine for weeks or months before it would reappear again.
I had so called experts want to replace Lambda sensors, Ignition amplifiers, ECU (silly money), and as a last resort it was explained that an air flow meter was required. (silly money)
I resisted the bull "sh*t" for 4 years as what they were saying really didn't ring true as an electronics engineer by trade who has to do fault finding for a living on far more complex kit than a bloody Range Rover ECU.
Then last Wednesday night the fault came back in Tescos car park but would not go away.
I plugged my noid light in to injector connector 1 and sure enough the noid light came on a soon as the ignition was switched on. (would normally clear after a minute or 2)
However the fault would not clear, so in desperation I disconnected 1,3,5,7 injectors and drove the car home on 2,4,6,8. (half an engine)
Then on Saturday morning I had the first chance to look at the car and blow me the fault was still there. Further investigation revealed that when I disconnected injector 7 the noid light went off.
Then with my meter I confirmed that the injector was faulty in that one pin measured 18 ohms to ground and the other was a dead short. Whereas a good injector should not have any continuity to ground at all through the metal body of the injector.
This has taken 4 years to find, for a garage to find may have cost me my house before anyone found it as it was so infrequent when the fault occurred.
Good luck in your quest.
Paul.
The really daft bit about the “experts” is the actual fault(s) on the car. A quick test showed only 2.5 volts on the throttle pot at WOT, and no output on the AFM at all. On further inspection the 12 volt supply connector was broken inside the socket on the AFM. Having fixed this we still had no output, and we then found the 5 volt supply to the Bosch AFM (taken from the throttle pot) was only 2.5 volts as well. So having disconnected this wire the throttle pot voltage then went back up to 5 volts and gave a sensible reading at WOT, so there was a high resistance between the ECU’s 5 volt supply and the throttle pot that dropped when the 16ma the AFM drew its supply current. Having noted that the artful bodger had been at the wiring loom, I thought it best to regulate the good 12 supply down to 5 volts to supply the AFM.
Having soldered all the various components we needed together, we still had no output, and it turned out both the original AFM, and a spare where faulty. Luckily I had a spare Chinese replica with me, that burst into life and gave a sensible reading. At this point the car then started OK, although only one bank of the V8 was controlling the fuel as it should but after a quick tweak to alter the poor calibration of the replica, both sides dropped into line.
The point of all the above is most of this just needed basic DC voltage checks, albeit time consuming its no rocket science. My home made test box makes it a lot quicker, but you can get all the sensor data from the Lucas 14CUX through a basic OBD1 serial port with the correct reader (that give much more information than the 2 digit fault code units). These are units like the Lucas test book (very expensive), Lucas Lazer hand held, Rovacom, and now the new Hawkeye at around £350, (plus the correct cable) so you have to ask the question what equipment do these specialists have?
http://shop.difflock.com/hawkeye-diagnostic-tool-p...
Having soldered all the various components we needed together, we still had no output, and it turned out both the original AFM, and a spare where faulty. Luckily I had a spare Chinese replica with me, that burst into life and gave a sensible reading. At this point the car then started OK, although only one bank of the V8 was controlling the fuel as it should but after a quick tweak to alter the poor calibration of the replica, both sides dropped into line.
The point of all the above is most of this just needed basic DC voltage checks, albeit time consuming its no rocket science. My home made test box makes it a lot quicker, but you can get all the sensor data from the Lucas 14CUX through a basic OBD1 serial port with the correct reader (that give much more information than the 2 digit fault code units). These are units like the Lucas test book (very expensive), Lucas Lazer hand held, Rovacom, and now the new Hawkeye at around £350, (plus the correct cable) so you have to ask the question what equipment do these specialists have?
http://shop.difflock.com/hawkeye-diagnostic-tool-p...
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