Engine out time
Discussion
Well, time is nearly here to lift the engine & box out of the chassis, I have droped the gearbox mounting bracket out and left just two bolts to finish undoing once I get a sling on it. ? Does the gear lever clear ok through the chassis upper cross-sections?
Plan is to do it next Saturday,any little tips to make life easy????
Trailing arms look like being a real pig to undo the bolts, been soaking them with Plus Gas for ages.
Plan is to do it next Saturday,any little tips to make life easy????
Trailing arms look like being a real pig to undo the bolts, been soaking them with Plus Gas for ages.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE GEARBOX SPEEDO SENDER WIRES!
Speaking from experience the senders are hard to find, probably because idiots like me rip the wires out.
The rear gearbox mount is a bit awkward - I found it easier to remove the 4 small bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox, then remove the 2 big bolts and remove the bracket. It will take a bit of getting out as the rubber of the bushes still holds it in place, I supported the back of the gearbox with a trolley jack.
Incidentally I am convinced the bushes where the bolts go through are the same as the front suspension (wishbone) bushes but I bottled it and left the originals in.
You will need the front of the car jacked up on axle stands to give enough clearance for the gearbox as you pull it all out. I wrapped the gearlever linkage with a rag to prevent it damaging the body.
If you're using an engine crane you need one with a long reach, attach it to the engine as close as you can as it gets quite high as you jack it up.
It helps locate the straps if you still have the exhaust manifolds on, I put the straps through the manifolds between cylinders 6/8 and 5/7 but I think thats pretty obvious really.
Speaking from experience the senders are hard to find, probably because idiots like me rip the wires out.
The rear gearbox mount is a bit awkward - I found it easier to remove the 4 small bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox, then remove the 2 big bolts and remove the bracket. It will take a bit of getting out as the rubber of the bushes still holds it in place, I supported the back of the gearbox with a trolley jack.
Incidentally I am convinced the bushes where the bolts go through are the same as the front suspension (wishbone) bushes but I bottled it and left the originals in.
You will need the front of the car jacked up on axle stands to give enough clearance for the gearbox as you pull it all out. I wrapped the gearlever linkage with a rag to prevent it damaging the body.
If you're using an engine crane you need one with a long reach, attach it to the engine as close as you can as it gets quite high as you jack it up.
It helps locate the straps if you still have the exhaust manifolds on, I put the straps through the manifolds between cylinders 6/8 and 5/7 but I think thats pretty obvious really.
Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 3rd October 18:14
I guess you've read my old thread but the problem with the trailing arm bolts is that they corrode and won't come out of the bushes.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... body off has begun&mid=83785
New Trailing arm bolts are as far as I know only available from Steve Heath.
Not perfect they have to be cut own half an inch or so for the inner (near chassis) ones.
I also bought his suspension bolts kit - it makes life a lot easier though mine came with the wrong size balljoint bolts, Steve sorted it out very quickly though so no complaints from me.
https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/i...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... body off has begun&mid=83785
New Trailing arm bolts are as far as I know only available from Steve Heath.
Not perfect they have to be cut own half an inch or so for the inner (near chassis) ones.
I also bought his suspension bolts kit - it makes life a lot easier though mine came with the wrong size balljoint bolts, Steve sorted it out very quickly though so no complaints from me.
https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/i...
They are UNF yes but the combination of mostly plain shaft with a threaded bit at the end I think is quite unusual in that size - I went down a few avenues and was told that large UNF bolts are pretty unusual & hard to source nowadays.
Steve Heath has given a lot to TVR (including writing the bible) so I personally don't begrudge the cost of them from him - I doubt he's got rich from selling parts anyway, probably a right load of hassle IMHO.
Steve Heath has given a lot to TVR (including writing the bible) so I personally don't begrudge the cost of them from him - I doubt he's got rich from selling parts anyway, probably a right load of hassle IMHO.
By the way have you given any thought to what cam you are going to put in the rebuilt engine?
I can recommend the Real Steel DW268 cam - you wouldn't consider it based on the name (Stump Puller) and description - but it absolutely flies.
http://www.realsteel.co.uk
Their parts are very well priced too.
I originally bought the DW252 Viper Cyclone cam but when Rob Robertson (V8 racing) who built my engine bottom end saw it he told me to send it back as it was too tame for a TVR - he recommended the DW268.
It flies.
My neighbour is a motorbike man and he says its the nearest he's ever been to bike performance in a car.
I can recommend the Real Steel DW268 cam - you wouldn't consider it based on the name (Stump Puller) and description - but it absolutely flies.
http://www.realsteel.co.uk
Their parts are very well priced too.
I originally bought the DW252 Viper Cyclone cam but when Rob Robertson (V8 racing) who built my engine bottom end saw it he told me to send it back as it was too tame for a TVR - he recommended the DW268.
It flies.
My neighbour is a motorbike man and he says its the nearest he's ever been to bike performance in a car.
Take your point about kit from Steve Heath, just that we have a local nut & bolt shop that is very well stocked with old stuff, we just rebuilt a Grinding machine manufactured in the 50's so you can imagine!!
'Stump puller' appeals to an ex rugby forward, down and dirty power every time!!!! that's the way for me my friend, thanks.
Ray
'Stump puller' appeals to an ex rugby forward, down and dirty power every time!!!! that's the way for me my friend, thanks.
Ray
Barkychoc said:
They are UNF yes but the combination of mostly plain shaft with a threaded bit at the end I think is quite unusual in that size - I went down a few avenues and was told that large UNF bolts are pretty unusual & hard to source nowadays.
Steve Heath has given a lot to TVR (including writing the bible) so I personally don't begrudge the cost of them from him - I doubt he's got rich from selling parts anyway, probably a right load of hassle IMHO.
I believe they are standard bolts, 9/16-UNF x 4 1/2" cut down to fit. Difficult to find though as you've discovered. I reckon the price of those SH kits are not too bad at all.Steve Heath has given a lot to TVR (including writing the bible) so I personally don't begrudge the cost of them from him - I doubt he's got rich from selling parts anyway, probably a right load of hassle IMHO.
K
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