Chim immobiliser
Discussion
My petrol pump isn't making the usual whirring sound and my car's not starting. The little red light near where the ignition key goes is not coming on or flashing either which would point to an immobiliser problem. Does anyone know of any obvious things to check or whether there's a fuse or anything I can check?
Any comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Any comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
You're probably correct in assuming it's an immobiliser problem.
Assuming that the 'conditions' you've mentioned are from a cold start, then I'd look at fuses first.
Checking for 12 Volts at the fuel pump (back of car, nearside - follow pipe from tank) is another check.
Some folks on the forum have tried a 'smack' on the underside of the dash toward the passenger side to see if that encourages the immobiliser to work.
If the fuse check and dashboard whack fail to get the ignition lights on and fuel pump working then call TVR alarm guru Carl Baker - 07720723407 for help.
Nick
Assuming that the 'conditions' you've mentioned are from a cold start, then I'd look at fuses first.
Checking for 12 Volts at the fuel pump (back of car, nearside - follow pipe from tank) is another check.
Some folks on the forum have tried a 'smack' on the underside of the dash toward the passenger side to see if that encourages the immobiliser to work.
If the fuse check and dashboard whack fail to get the ignition lights on and fuel pump working then call TVR alarm guru Carl Baker - 07720723407 for help.
Nick
swap the two silver relays over in the passanger footwell will be in the birds nest of wire to the ecu.
ones the ign the other fuel circuit this will rule this out. I would check under the passanger side rear wheel to see if any wires are hanging off the pump or there is 12volts at the pump.
ones the ign the other fuel circuit this will rule this out. I would check under the passanger side rear wheel to see if any wires are hanging off the pump or there is 12volts at the pump.
I swapped the relays over as recommended and switched the ignition on. After a pause of a few seconds the fuel pump started whirring, I turned the key and the engine started. After running for a couple of minutes it cut out and again the pump won't work.
I've now noticed that there's no ignition light on the dash either. Not sure whether or not the light was working before swapping the relays.
I also lifted the dash to have a look at the immobiliser box to see if I could see anything obvious. It has 2 fuses in the back which both look fine.
Confused
I've now noticed that there's no ignition light on the dash either. Not sure whether or not the light was working before swapping the relays.
I also lifted the dash to have a look at the immobiliser box to see if I could see anything obvious. It has 2 fuses in the back which both look fine.
Confused
Right, bought 2 relays this morning though I couldn't get the Bosch ones. Fitted them but still no better. I then tested the fuel pump by putting power straight to it and it worked.
I'm suspecting it's the immobiliser. Does anyone know whether I can buy one anywhere and if so would it just plug in and go?
Cheers
Steve.
I'm suspecting it's the immobiliser. Does anyone know whether I can buy one anywhere and if so would it just plug in and go?
Cheers
Steve.
Steve,
Firstly, the relays are not your average relay. If you cannot get to a TVR parts specialist, then go to your local Land Rover dealer and bring the relays with you - their parts chap should be able to recognise them easily. Alternatively, read the Bosch part numbers off the relay case and get your local motor factor to get you some
Secondly, the immobiliser should prevent the fuel pump AND the starter motor working. So - if you can crank the engine over, then I would suggest the immobiliser is NOT at fault. Therefore, assuming the engine cranks on the key, it would indicate the fault lies with the fuel pump circuit. From your posts I'm assuming that you can crank the engine but the fuel pump will not 'prime'? In which case, (and without having the car here) my gut feel is the 'power' and 'fuel pump' relays are getting lazy. (Particularly when you posted that swapping them produced a 'start'). Another 'dodge' is to take a reasonably sized piece of wire and connect the pump direct to the battery +ve. If the pump powers up, and the car fires, then - again it would point to the pump circuit.
Thirdly, on my Chim it was the immobiliser under the dash...and the alarm module is under the tunnel 'bolster', just behind the door release knob - which can be altered for sensitivity, by the way.
Finally, check the connections to the fuel pump under the car, they are a bit exposed and connection may be poor.
Nick
Firstly, the relays are not your average relay. If you cannot get to a TVR parts specialist, then go to your local Land Rover dealer and bring the relays with you - their parts chap should be able to recognise them easily. Alternatively, read the Bosch part numbers off the relay case and get your local motor factor to get you some
Secondly, the immobiliser should prevent the fuel pump AND the starter motor working. So - if you can crank the engine over, then I would suggest the immobiliser is NOT at fault. Therefore, assuming the engine cranks on the key, it would indicate the fault lies with the fuel pump circuit. From your posts I'm assuming that you can crank the engine but the fuel pump will not 'prime'? In which case, (and without having the car here) my gut feel is the 'power' and 'fuel pump' relays are getting lazy. (Particularly when you posted that swapping them produced a 'start'). Another 'dodge' is to take a reasonably sized piece of wire and connect the pump direct to the battery +ve. If the pump powers up, and the car fires, then - again it would point to the pump circuit.
Thirdly, on my Chim it was the immobiliser under the dash...and the alarm module is under the tunnel 'bolster', just behind the door release knob - which can be altered for sensitivity, by the way.
Finally, check the connections to the fuel pump under the car, they are a bit exposed and connection may be poor.
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Monday 6th September 17:38
Thanks for all your advice Nick.
I've tested the fuel pump by connecting it to power direct and it worked fine.
Also the starter motor cranks the engine on the turn of the key so no problems there.
The problems are as follows:
The immobiliser light near to where the ignition key goes is not coming on at all.
The ignition key doesn't come on as it should when the key is turned.
The fuel pump doesn't kick in when the ignition is turned on.
I tried loads of places over the weekend to get the Bosch relays but the nearest I could get were another make with all the same numbers on the circuit. I suppose my next step is to order the correct relays from somewhere and see how that goes.
Thanks again mate
Steve.
I've tested the fuel pump by connecting it to power direct and it worked fine.
Also the starter motor cranks the engine on the turn of the key so no problems there.
The problems are as follows:
The immobiliser light near to where the ignition key goes is not coming on at all.
The ignition key doesn't come on as it should when the key is turned.
The fuel pump doesn't kick in when the ignition is turned on.
I tried loads of places over the weekend to get the Bosch relays but the nearest I could get were another make with all the same numbers on the circuit. I suppose my next step is to order the correct relays from somewhere and see how that goes.
Thanks again mate
Steve.
Steve,
OK - I'm a bit confused now.
I think I understand that you can crank the engine on the key? BUT the LED near the ignition 'lock/switch' is not lit (what about the indicating lights on the dash)? AND the fuel pump is not running up and priming the system?
But you can 'hotwire' the pump direct from the battery and the engine will fire and run?
Does sound to me that the immobiliser is not quite right. I'd suggest calling Carl Baker (TVR alarm guru) on 07720723407 and speak with him. I'd suggest you be very precise in describing the sequence of events in what you've tried and what you've observed with the dash lights etc. Carl is in Petersfield, Hants - so quite a way from yourself but he does know all about the Meta alarm/immob system on the TVRs.
One last 'dodge' might be to hold the blipper button down for at least 30 secs....sometimes this 'unscrambles' the system. I've seen it work where nothing would liven up on a Chim. Do it during the day as the siren will go off!
Nick
OK - I'm a bit confused now.
I think I understand that you can crank the engine on the key? BUT the LED near the ignition 'lock/switch' is not lit (what about the indicating lights on the dash)? AND the fuel pump is not running up and priming the system?
But you can 'hotwire' the pump direct from the battery and the engine will fire and run?
Does sound to me that the immobiliser is not quite right. I'd suggest calling Carl Baker (TVR alarm guru) on 07720723407 and speak with him. I'd suggest you be very precise in describing the sequence of events in what you've tried and what you've observed with the dash lights etc. Carl is in Petersfield, Hants - so quite a way from yourself but he does know all about the Meta alarm/immob system on the TVRs.
One last 'dodge' might be to hold the blipper button down for at least 30 secs....sometimes this 'unscrambles' the system. I've seen it work where nothing would liven up on a Chim. Do it during the day as the siren will go off!
Nick
Stevie Mojo said:
My Bosch relays came yesterday. I plugged them in and guess what? She fired up.
Thanks to you all for your advice, you've been most helpful.
Regards
Steve.
Glad you posted - - and got a result!!Thanks to you all for your advice, you've been most helpful.
Regards
Steve.
The relays do get 'tired' - so worthwhile carrying a spare set, particularly if considering a jaunt abroad.
Nick
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