Oven and Hob wiring
Author
Discussion

corradoG60

Original Poster:

1,479 posts

210 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
We're having a kitchin fitted, and the fitter wants to wire the hob to the existing cooker supply, and the oven to a plug and plug it in to a standard socket on the ring main, that dosent sound right to me, is that how it should be done? I thought they would both go onto the cooker supply.

cheers lee

dirkgently

2,160 posts

254 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Fairly standard. It`s the hob that needs the oomph.

Simpo Two

91,270 posts

288 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
corradoG60 said:
We're having a kitchin fitted, and the fitter wants to wire the hob to the existing cooker supply, and the oven to a plug and plug it in to a standard socket on the ring main, that dosent sound right to me, is that how it should be done? I thought they would both go onto the cooker supply
It's mostly to do with current rating. Some ovens can work from a 13A supply (well mine can, even for its pyrolytic cycle), whilst an induction hob can draw 32A or more at full chat and so need what was the cooker outlet.

In short, I did what your fitter is suggesting and it works fine, although I hard wired the oven rather than use a a plug.

corradoG60

Original Poster:

1,479 posts

210 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Thanks biggrin just didnt sound right, and yeah the hobs are 4 induction hobs, so will use a fair bit of power.

Simpo Two

91,270 posts

288 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Four induction hobs! You Gordon fking Ramsey?

corradoG60

Original Poster:

1,479 posts

210 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
Four induction hobs! You Gordon fking Ramsey?
No, but i know someone who worked at a well known furniture shop when they went bust and threw out all the un used display stuff biggrin

Ar they good then? havent been able to use them yet.

Edited by corradoG60 on Thursday 2nd September 20:41


Edited by corradoG60 on Thursday 2nd September 20:42

Simpo Two

91,270 posts

288 months

Thursday 2nd September 2010
quotequote all
corradoG60 said:
Ar they good then? havent been able to use them yet.
The best.

Ganglandboss

8,499 posts

226 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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Most ovens operate on less than 13A, however, you should check what the installation instructions say as many specify a dedicated circuit for the oven, even if less than 13A.

RobDickinson

31,343 posts

277 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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I replaced our old induction hob with a whizzy new one, 3.2kw boost OMG does that rock

Digger

16,120 posts

214 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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Sorry for jumping in here.

I may be swapping out a four ring electric hob (it is pants!) for an Induction model. The existing Electric model has on it's label underneath 6000W and from my very limited knowledge Induction versions are generally around 7.2kw for an equivalent 4 ringer. Would I be safe to swap out and use the existing hob wiring which appears to be hardwired to a nearby box with a Big Red Switch? smile

Do I need to check the fusebox rating or indeed anything else before proceeding?

Please only reply using words of a low syllable count as I am no pro sparky. I know enough not to electrocute myself. . . I think.

cjs

11,474 posts

274 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
Digger said:
Sorry for jumping in here.

I may be swapping out a four ring electric hob (it is pants!) for an Induction model. The existing Electric model has on it's label underneath 6000W and from my very limited knowledge Induction versions are generally around 7.2kw for an equivalent 4 ringer. Would I be safe to swap out and use the existing hob wiring which appears to be hardwired to a nearby box with a Big Red Switch? smile

Do I need to check the fusebox rating or indeed anything else before proceeding?

Please only reply using words of a low syllable count as I am no pro sparky. I know enough not to electrocute myself. . . I think.
7.2kw is around 32 amps, so as long as your breaker is rated at that or above you will be okay.

If not, you will need to upgrade however before you do this you will need to check the size of the cable to ensure it can take a higher current rating.


Digger

16,120 posts

214 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
Cheers for that. So the size (diameter?) spec will presumably be imprinted on the sheath? Looks about 7-8mm using eyeball measurement!

Ganglandboss

8,499 posts

226 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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Digger said:
Cheers for that. So the size (diameter?) spec will presumably be imprinted on the sheath? Looks about 7-8mm using eyeball measurement!
No, usually there are no size markings. It is the cross sectional area of the conductors - not the diameter.

wattsie_2004

228 posts

212 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
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6mm maybe? I know our oven is on 6mm Twin and Earth

Leccy shower rated at 8 or 9kw is on 10mm T&E

I'm not a sparky but I think you get 6mm or 10mm (but no 8mm)

6mm rated upto 40A / 9.6kW according to http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=41834

Ganglandboss

8,499 posts

226 months

Friday 3rd September 2010
quotequote all
wattsie_2004 said:
6mm maybe? I know our oven is on 6mm Twin and Earth

Leccy shower rated at 8 or 9kw is on 10mm T&E

I'm not a sparky but I think you get 6mm or 10mm (but no 8mm)

6mm rated upto 40A / 9.6kW according to http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=41834
I notice 'Electricianoftheyear06' didn't bother to ask what the protective device was. If it is a BS 3036 rewirable fuse, the cable would be down-rated to 9.54kW. '06 mustn't be a particularly good vintage for electricians.