Lucida Alignment and ABS Problem

[jap-car]

This isn't an engine problem but I'm not sure where else to post this. When I first bought my 1993 4WD Toyota Lucida (grey import Previa) last year, it had a couple of problems, these being:-
* It tended to pull slightly to the left
* On full steering lock, there was a knocking sound from the front.

To cure the knocking noise, I had the front N/S CV joint replaced with a new unit after-market joint. However, the ABS warning lamp immediately lit and the car juddered on full lock in reverse. Upon investigation, I found that the ABS ring integral with the new CV joint did not align with the ABS sensor on that wheel. I therefore replaced this CV joint with an entire 2nd hand Toyota driveshaft. The ABS ring now lines up with the sensor but the ABS lamp still lights as soon as the ignition is turned on (ie before turning a wheel). Also the car still judders in reverse. I’ve since replaced the battery in the car so have effectively pulled every fuse I can (to reset the ABS controller).

On top of this, I have had the front wheel tracking set three times. The car still pulls to the left (tyre wear is bad) and when the settings are re-checked after just half a mile, they are completely out. I have yet to check the rear but at the front I can’t feel / see any loose joints. The steering has no play and there are no clunks etc while driving.

I assume the judder and the tracking problem are related and the problem with the ABS is something the garage have knocked while in that area. The tip of the ABS sensor is clean and I can’t see any loose connections. Also while all this has been going on, I have replaced the front brake pads and all the callipers are free and the disks smooth.

Sorry for the long post. Any ideas – please?

Thanks,

Robert.

[dern]

jap-car said:

On top of this, I have had the front wheel tracking set three times. The car still pulls to the left (tyre wear is bad) and when the settings are re-checked after just half a mile, they are completely out. I have yet to check the rear but at the front I can’t feel / see any loose joints. The steering has no play and there are no clunks etc while driving.

I'm afraid I can't help with the ABS but the symptom you describe on the sound as they well be worn suspension bushes and possibly balljoints to me. I've replaced these on 3 cars (2 rwd & 1 fwd, no fwd I'm afraid) and in none of the cases could I feel any play by hand. Some of the bushes looked worn when I took them off but most looked ok. Nevertheless the new ones didn't have the play that the old ones did and in all cases tightened up the front end, stopped wandering and vibration and meant the car alignment stayed in true. The options are either replace the bushes and balljoints in the wishbones or replace the wishbones themselves with bushes and balljoints already fitted. Which of these options you choose will depend on what's available, how confident you are and what tools you have. Of the cars I've done this on two have required both the entire wishbones replacing with bushes and balljoints (a mondeo v6, a vx carlton) and for the other (a porsche 944 lux) the bits were available for me to replace the bushes and balljoints in the existing wishbone (without requiring a bush press). All three cars cost me 100 quid or thereabouts in parts with me doing the work.

Good luck.

Mark

[roop]

The ABS warning light should always light for a few seconds at startup. The light should then go out. Same goes for the airbag light (if applicable). These lights show the self-test has been completed. If they don't go out, you have a problem.

[jap-car]

roop said:

The ABS warning light should always light for a few seconds at startup. The light should then go out. Same goes for the airbag light (if applicable). These lights show the self-test has been completed. If they don't go out, you have a problem.

Sorry, I should have said that the ABS light stays lit rather than going out after a few seconds.

I used to have a Subaru, on which the ABS lamp would light and stay on after exceeding about 10mph. This was fixed by replacing one of the sensors. I assume that the lamp only lit once moving as it was then that the system recopgnised it was receiving spurious signals from the wheel sensor. On my Lucida, as the lamp lights instantly and stays on, the system myust be detecting a fault instantly without a wheel even turning. My best guess at the moment is that the sensor on the wheel where the driveshaft has been changed has been knocked and is now giving silly signals. There is no visible damage though.

Thanks for reply,

Robert.

[jap-car]

Thanks Mark,

I was suprprised not to find a loose joint but if you can't always feel play by hand then this may well explain things.

Is it just the front which tends to suffer or do you replce rear bushes / balljoints also?

Cheers,

Robert

[dern]

jap-car said:

I was suprprised not to find a loose joint but if you can't always feel play by hand then this may well explain things.

You can get a crowbar in there but even if the bushes are new you will be able to move the wishbone relative to the chassis/body-shell because that's what the rubber bushes do - allow some movement to absorb shocks. Unless you are familiar with how much play should be there I'm not sure how much it will tell you. I tried and couldn't come to any conclusions so I changed them anyway and all the symptoms I had went.

jap-car said:

Is it just the front which tends to suffer or do you replce rear bushes / balljoints also?

I haven't had to do any rear bushes so far but I know people who have. I suspect it depends on the design of your car is to what wears at what rate.

Mark

>> Edited by dern on Wednesday 24th March 12:22

[jap-car]

Thanks Mark