Discussion
2 other point I may raise . . .
1 - Mr Heath sells a far better fuse design, which isn't just a metal strip which does take a battering of salt, weather, heat etc . . Worth looking at.
2 - when doing up the 8mm nut's be careful that it doesn't twist the blade fuse or put it under tension, as sometimes they can do ..
3 - don't panic if it blows and you haven't got a spare, just connect the wires together and get home, then replace.
1 - Mr Heath sells a far better fuse design, which isn't just a metal strip which does take a battering of salt, weather, heat etc . . Worth looking at.
2 - when doing up the 8mm nut's be careful that it doesn't twist the blade fuse or put it under tension, as sometimes they can do ..
3 - don't panic if it blows and you haven't got a spare, just connect the wires together and get home, then replace.
crackedfinger said:
...logic...
You can't really put the fuse between the battery & starter (draws too much) but to protect the circuit (the wire) as close to that point as possible I would guess is the logic - and obviously somewhere it can be securely mounted.I still think wiring the alternator back to the fusebox area and removing the starter pole to alt loop makes a lot of sense TBH. A little bit more wire and time, but at least the fuse can be kept in a better environment

Early cars had the battery cable to starter, then cable to alt.. but the fusebox was only connected to power by wires over the engine bay to the alt... even though the fusebox sat inches away from the battery

spend said:
crackedfinger said:
...logic...
You can't really put the fuse between the battery & starter (draws too much) but to protect the circuit (the wire) as close to that point as possible I would guess is the logic - and obviously somewhere it can be securely mounted.It was a 500A MEGA fuse. I use them on the LS conversions as they are a lot more reliable and allow bigger capacity alternators. I have a 150A alternator on the Cerb and it was blowing the normal 100A/125A midi fuses.
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