New distributor and timing setup

[e635815]

Must have been done to death but couldn't find any reference to it in the forums.
On a 5.0l RV8, serpentine engine, the whole distributor has been changed. Now, my mechanics is trying to get the engine running but apparently, the timing is way out.
Could anyone here point me to a procedure to end up with a rough timing in order to get the engine running before fine tuning with a strobe light?
Thanks and regards
Philippe

[JKY]

Make sure he has cleaned the pulley and found the ACTUAL timing marks and not mistaken the big notch for TBC as it is not.
If he finds the actual marks then he will be able to set it up - just make sure that it is going to plug number one on TDC firing stroke.
8 degrees (idle setting) is a good start point. Once it is running then you need about 28 degrees max advance at around 3500 revs

Edited by JKY on Tuesday 29th June 10:56

[e635815]

The problem is that he can't align the ignition arm to cylinder 1 in the distributor.
I have read somewhere on the internet (maybe on this forum) a procedure saying that the arm must be rotated clockwise (or counterclockwise) by x degrees before introducing the distributor in the casing. So that, once the worm gear is engaged, the arm ends-up facing cyclinder 1 plot.
Can anyone remember such post and can point me to it?

Thanks and regards.
Philippe

[Ant.]

I am sorry, but if your mechanic cannot set a distributor up from scratch ,take it elsewhere....

[e635815]

"I am sorry, but if your mechanic cannot set a distributor up from scratch ,take it elsewhere....
"

And how am I supposed to take the car elswhere? Push it?

I am not here to discuss the goodness of my mechanic (I won't use him anymore, not after that) but I am here to find a solution.
If anybody can explain to me how to tune the distributor outside of the engine so that the finder points to cylinder 1 once in position, I would be forever grateful.
Thanks
Philippe

[Barreti]

There is a comment in Here by Blitzracing which relates to a method for putting the dizzy back to align with TDC. Is this what you are looking for?

Edited by Barreti on Wednesday 30th June 13:51

[GV]

[quote=Ant.]I am sorry, but if your mechanic cannot set a distributor up from scratch ,take it elsewhere....

I have to admit that's I what I thought when I first the thread. However, RPI Engineering, Act Performance, V8 Tuner et al should be able to give the correct answer....

[scotty_d]

Pretty easy really if all he has done is changed the whole dizzy out for a new one. I would fit the new dizzy fit the roter arm remove plug one to find TDC then fit dizzy cap and leads in order after getting number one sorted make sure the piston one cyl one is at the top of its stroke by turning the engine over and see what position the arm is pointing.

There is a correct way round it goes but mine is one notch out but it still runs just not per the diagram lol

and what JKY said for the ignition timing pretty easy stuff for a mechanic i run 28 degree at 3500

Edited by scotty_d on Wednesday 30th June 17:12

[Grey Ghost]

Try near the bottom of this page

http://www.g33.co.uk/tuning.htm

Might be useful, might not but I'm not a mechanic

[blitzracing]

The easiest thing to do is to put a paint mark on the distributor body exactly below the number one plug lead, and then remove the distributor cap. Then get the engine to 8' before top dead center on the compression stroke. The best way to find this is to leave a plug really loose in number 1 and rotate the engine slowly, and you should hear gas leaking past the plug as it starts to compress. Alternatively you can try using a finger to block the plug hole, (not so easy)and you will feel the pressure build up as the piston moves up. Now align the rotor arm tip with the mark on the distributor body, and please note that you do need to have the vacume advance mechanism pointing in the correct position in relation to the engine block as you fit the distributor to start with to get the basic settings correct. Ill try and post picturtes later. As you put the distributor into the engine and you will see the rotor arm move round as the gears mesh, so you can see how far it moves. Now lift the distributor back up and move the rotor arm anticlockwise (I think from memory!) by the same amount and refit it again, and see if the rotor arm is now pointing somewhere near the marker with the distributor fully seated. This is the difficult bit, as if its a pre serp engine it may not seat fully down because the distributor drive will not lock into the oil pump take off, so you have to remove the distributor again, note the position of the locking tab on the distributor shaft in relation to its fitted position, and then rotate the oil pump / slot so it will engage and allow the distributor to sit fully home. Its all very fiddly getting it all lined up. Assuming you can get the marker and rotor arm near lined up, then you can rotate the distributor body a few degrees either way to get them to line up before you clamp the distributor down and refit the cap. This should be enough to get the engine started, but it will need re timing with a strobe to get it spot on.

[blitzracing]

[url]
This shows the marker point for number 1 cylinder the rotor arm should be set for at 8' btdc number 1 cylinder on compression. This is for the pre serp engine, I think the serp engine is shifted round slightly. Also note position of the vacume advance and ignition amp in relation tho the other engine components as the basically correct position for the distributor body to start with.

Edited by blitzracing on Friday 2nd July 19:09