420 SEAC restoration begins
Discussion
No, that's not mine in the background.
My chassis it seems has less rot that Henry's later 450SE but more welds have come away from the main chassis, several tubes are bent or damaged and there is some serious flexing in the chassis as a whole. Pile of poo in it's present state. Welds will not be re-welds but complete tubing replaced with stronger seamless tubing and superior welding - my car must of come of the production line on a Friday!
Both front adjustable shocks were up against the bump stops - I though the handling was strange.
Chassis off to be grit blasted to see what other damage has yet to be spotted before rebuild begins then of to the hot dip galvaniser at 400 degrees C. That'll stop the b
d from ever rotting again.Gearbox was semi-shagged so dropped that of at Gearboxman in Redboune with a remit to do whatever's necessary to make it perfect and quiet.
More to come, same time, same channel
Phil
420 SEAC
BTW, anyone that's done a chassis job will note on the front of mine that the left hand diagonal tube has been re-located further forward. Has anyone any idea why or if this is unique on SEAC's? It's not a particular neat job.
Also, anyone any idea of the front and rear spring rates used on the SEAC's?
Were they any harder than the normal V8 wedge's?
Phil
420 SEAC
Also, anyone any idea of the front and rear spring rates used on the SEAC's?
Were they any harder than the normal V8 wedge's?
Phil
420 SEAC
Im no expert but i know someone who was asked to look at a problem chassis that had been galvanised and it had distorted to buery evidently due to the high temp even though the tubes had been drilled systematically to let heat escape,personally i would confirm with an expert before proceeding.Perhaps reconsider the merits of using zinc spray or powder coating and waxoil.JUST BEING CAUTIOUS! Before the 
ery evidently due to the high temp even though the tubes had been drilled systematically to let heat escape,personally i would confirm with an expert before proceeding.Perhaps reconsider the merits of using zinc spray or powder coating and waxoil.JUST BEING CAUTIOUS! Before the Transmitter Man said:
BTW, anyone that's done a chassis job will note on the front of mine that the left hand diagonal tube has been re-located further forward. Has anyone any idea why or if this is unique on SEAC's? It's not a particular neat job.
Phil
420 SEAC
Hi Phil I may be imagining this and someone else will comment I'm sure, but looking at your top photo and the front of the chassis, does your chassis have extra diagonal tubes coming forward from the suspension pillars (are these the ones you mentioned are located differently on each side?) to and what looks like an extra horizontal cross tube and extra vertical tube at the front. I'm sure my SEAC doesn't have these and they are not on the wedge chassis picture in the Wedge Bible.Phil
420 SEAC
Hi Gerald and others, hi Paul,
Yes, it those tubes you mention.
I think some have to do with the fact the SEAC has a different nose to that of normal wedges but the modified diagonal tube gets me.
Will no doubt cross that bridge as and when.
I hear what others have said re galvanising but if enough drain holes are drilled and importantly the chassis is correctly fed into the 'hot' tank then I think distortion can be minimised or eradicated completely.
I need to confirm that my man is experienced as dipping chassis, such as for trailers etc.
Did you see my link in a previous thread re someone's galvanised Chim:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd imagine that if the drain holes are large enough and at both ends of the tube that the hot zinc would also coat the insides, no?
Phil
420 SEAC
Yes, it those tubes you mention.
I think some have to do with the fact the SEAC has a different nose to that of normal wedges but the modified diagonal tube gets me.
Will no doubt cross that bridge as and when.
I hear what others have said re galvanising but if enough drain holes are drilled and importantly the chassis is correctly fed into the 'hot' tank then I think distortion can be minimised or eradicated completely.
I need to confirm that my man is experienced as dipping chassis, such as for trailers etc.
Did you see my link in a previous thread re someone's galvanised Chim:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd imagine that if the drain holes are large enough and at both ends of the tube that the hot zinc would also coat the insides, no?
Phil
420 SEAC
Thanks Alan,
I haven't forgot I have you PS parts.
Yes, big things happening on the rear end so will update as and when.
Wayne,
ASAP but going for new paint and new interior as long as the funds hang out.
More photo's in two weeks time when the chassis should of been blasted, repaired and blasted again ready for the hot dip..
Phil
420 SEAC
I haven't forgot I have you PS parts.
Yes, big things happening on the rear end so will update as and when.
Wayne,
ASAP but going for new paint and new interior as long as the funds hang out.
More photo's in two weeks time when the chassis should of been blasted, repaired and blasted again ready for the hot dip..
Phil
420 SEAC
If you have any spare bits left over at the end let us know ascould do with the odd seat etc 
Whats the framework in the body ? Is that jst to try and hold together whilst not on the chassis? Would love that sort of covered space to do mine in, but at least I'm now working on solid concrete
Whats the framework in the body ? Is that jst to try and hold together whilst not on the chassis? Would love that sort of covered space to do mine in, but at least I'm now working on solid concrete
Yes, the frame is to stop the body from flexing.
This is part of a professional restoration shop with separate fabrication and engine building rooms and further adjacent storage for other customer cars.
They are far from short of work and have a wide variety of different cars. Aside from that early Corvette such cars as Ruf Porsche, Mercedes 190, Triumph TR5, 1930's hearse! and others.
The SEAC is in good hands.
Phil
420 SEAC
This is part of a professional restoration shop with separate fabrication and engine building rooms and further adjacent storage for other customer cars.
They are far from short of work and have a wide variety of different cars. Aside from that early Corvette such cars as Ruf Porsche, Mercedes 190, Triumph TR5, 1930's hearse! and others.
The SEAC is in good hands.
Phil
420 SEAC
Hmm - even if you are corect and drilling all the holes will stop it distorting, won't you have to weld up the holes afterwards - this will burn off the zinc (which incidentally will give off toxic fumes - be careful) so it'll end up almost galvanised.
If the outside is clean I would just fill the tubes with oil and seal them up = much less drilling involved.
If the outside is clean I would just fill the tubes with oil and seal them up = much less drilling involved.
adam quantrill said:
Hmm - even if you are corect and drilling all the holes will stop it distorting, won't you have to weld up the holes afterwards - this will burn off the zinc (which incidentally will give off toxic fumes - be careful) so it'll end up almost galvanised.
If the outside is clean I would just fill the tubes with oil and seal them up = much less drilling involved.
I read somewhere, that provided the correct number and position of holes are drilled, it's not the actual hot dip process that causes the chassis to deform, but whether the galvanizer's normal practice of leaving it over the tank to drip and cool is followed. The trick in maintaining the chassis undistorted is to remove it immediately from the area of heat after dipping, IIRC. Best have a word with your galvanizer to clarify things. HTH. If the outside is clean I would just fill the tubes with oil and seal them up = much less drilling involved.
Hi Guys,
The tube that has been moved forward does not look like Blackpool work but that it's been carried out at a later date!
AFAIK galvanising, just like zinc spraying has a creeping effect and in fact protects metal around the actual coating. Not sure how true that is.
I spoke to Mr Chim who galvanised his chassis and he was advised to use 5mm drain holes. Post dipping he plugged the holes with QuickSteel then painted the chassis for aesthetic reasons with POR15.
Phil
420 SEAC
The tube that has been moved forward does not look like Blackpool work but that it's been carried out at a later date!
AFAIK galvanising, just like zinc spraying has a creeping effect and in fact protects metal around the actual coating. Not sure how true that is.
I spoke to Mr Chim who galvanised his chassis and he was advised to use 5mm drain holes. Post dipping he plugged the holes with QuickSteel then painted the chassis for aesthetic reasons with POR15.
Phil
420 SEAC
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