Anyone know a garage that can work on TVRs in Spain-urgent
Discussion
On holiday and the car lost power, checked and 100 AMP fuse blown, changed but no power to get into the car, tried the method dealership tells you about, pulled on cable but can't get in, got a little charge in enough to open the door then boot was making a noise but wouldn't open so I can't get the locking wheel nut out of the boot to get the front wheel off.Was taken to a recovery depot last night and the breakdown company can't find a garage that works on them.
ignore me. I'd suggest if there is no power the battery was completely drained by the 100amp fuse blowing and getting no charge, now its replaced once the car is running it should get a charge, have you managed to open the boot? you could tell the recovery people about the anderson connector behind the passenger side front wheel, they will probably have jump leads they could plug into that, then its a case of connecting to a good battery to start the car.
Edited by Noisy on Thursday 15th April 10:55
The plug I've got for the battery connector works on jump leads for a minute, to give me enough power to get into the car, then there's a fuse in the positive connection of the plug that clips in under the car that blew after a few seconds of being connected to the recovery truck, so I tried again with larger fuse and it blew, maybe it would be an idea to cut the fused section off and just charge it that way?, the fuse I mean is on the anderson connector plug that I have.
No luck with the boot, if that can't be opened I will have to get it sent home I suppose.
No luck with the boot, if that can't be opened I will have to get it sent home I suppose.
Edited by Nappler on Thursday 15th April 11:02
Nappler said:
The plug I've got for the battery connector works on jump leads for a minute, to give me enough power to get into the car, then there's a fuse in the positive connection of the plug that clips in under the car that blew after a few seconds of being connected to the recovery truck, so I tried again with larger fuse and it blew, maybe it would be an idea to cut the fused section off and just charge it that way?, the fuse I mean is on the anderson connector plug that I have.
No luck with the boot, if that can't be opened I will have to get it sent home I suppose.
I might not be getting this, you can get into the car but have a flat battery so cannot get into boot?No luck with the boot, if that can't be opened I will have to get it sent home I suppose.
As posted above all you probably have now is a flat battery, jump leads on battery open boot and away you go. Once you get it started you will be back in business.
Appolgies if I have missed something, not trying to wind you up at a bad time.
You should be able to get around this. Some suggestions:
- Leave it to trickle charge overnight through the lighter socket. hopefully will give it enough charge to ping the boot solenoid.
- Call a UK indie you know and ask them for suggestions to get the boot open
- Force the locking wheel nut off to remove wheel/get battery charged directly.
- Find the wires from cabin to boot (ask indie on phone) - tap 12v into them to ping the boot solenoid
- Leave it to trickle charge overnight through the lighter socket. hopefully will give it enough charge to ping the boot solenoid.
- Call a UK indie you know and ask them for suggestions to get the boot open
- Force the locking wheel nut off to remove wheel/get battery charged directly.
- Find the wires from cabin to boot (ask indie on phone) - tap 12v into them to ping the boot solenoid
I tried pushing the badge and lifting the boot open at the same time, could it be that the locking mechanism needs the pin on the boot pushed further down to be able to release it?.
Got an update from the AA, it's still sat at the recovery depot that it was dropped to last night and they haven't been able to find a garage that can work on it as yet, I think I'm going to have to bluntly suggest it will need to be recovered to the UK.
Got an update from the AA, it's still sat at the recovery depot that it was dropped to last night and they haven't been able to find a garage that can work on it as yet, I think I'm going to have to bluntly suggest it will need to be recovered to the UK.
Edited by Nappler on Thursday 15th April 11:32
as a side note, you can reach in, take out the 2 10mm bolts that hold on the battery cover, then remove the battery cover, some are cable tied at the bottom as well. with that off you should be able to get jump lead onto the positive to the battery, as said the other option is to remove the air box and connect the charger to the main live to the starter and also to the earth on the engine.
I've jumped mine without taking the wheel off. As others have said put the wheel on full right lock and you've got enough access to the battery.
Re the fuse on the Anderson, I'm right in saying you mean on the jump leads themselves? My Anderson charger has a fuse on the positive lead but I've never known jump leads to have one.
When you connect it are you trying to crank the car straight away? If you are then try leaving it connected for 10 mins before you crank. They draw quite a few amps when they crank. You're probably blowing the fuse due to this.
Re the fuse on the Anderson, I'm right in saying you mean on the jump leads themselves? My Anderson charger has a fuse on the positive lead but I've never known jump leads to have one.
When you connect it are you trying to crank the car straight away? If you are then try leaving it connected for 10 mins before you crank. They draw quite a few amps when they crank. You're probably blowing the fuse due to this.
Basil Brush said:
If you jack it up and put wheel on full lock to the right you should get enough access to remove battery cover and reach in to connect some jump leads.
No need to even jack it up. The RAC chap managed to get mine off and jump leads on the battery without the car leaving the ground. Its a royal pain in the ass to get the cover back on though.
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