help with trailing arm removal
Discussion
well is was going oh so well main nut came off easy, brakes and handbrake off, suspension bolts out hub off
HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE MAIN BOLTS OUT !
i can't get a socket or spanner over the nut end, and when i move the bolt with a socket the bush flexes and asborbs the turn , is there a spanner needed i think the shaft of the bolt is siezed in the bush
also i need to replace the flexible brake hose it was old and worn , where can i get one
thanks in advance
HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE MAIN BOLTS OUT !
i can't get a socket or spanner over the nut end, and when i move the bolt with a socket the bush flexes and asborbs the turn , is there a spanner needed i think the shaft of the bolt is siezed in the bush
also i need to replace the flexible brake hose it was old and worn , where can i get one
thanks in advance
It sounds to me as if the bolt is seized in the bush - in your OP you said the spanner was tensioning the rubber in the bush, and it shouldn't do that. You can't heat the bolt because you're likely to melt the inner bush off the rubber, then you're really stuck...
How about trying to set up a little gear puller to try to push the bolt out of the centre of the bush, if hitting it won't move it?
Otherwise, as you said, you're into cutting through the bolts, and that's a long job, because angle grinder access isn't easy, and a hacksaw will take forever...
How about trying to set up a little gear puller to try to push the bolt out of the centre of the bush, if hitting it won't move it?
Otherwise, as you said, you're into cutting through the bolts, and that's a long job, because angle grinder access isn't easy, and a hacksaw will take forever...
Trust me if the bolt is seized in the bush it is never ever going to come out - you will have to hacksaw through the bolt - with a decent blade it is nowhere as difficult as you would think it soon gets through, just make sure you swear at it constantly as it makes you feel better!
Then you will have to buy the Steve Heath bolt kit - I haven't found another source of the trailing arm bolts. I had to cut down the inner ones slightly as they were too long but otherwise they were fine.
Then you will have to buy the Steve Heath bolt kit - I haven't found another source of the trailing arm bolts. I had to cut down the inner ones slightly as they were too long but otherwise they were fine.
If you are cutting a bolt though due to the "seized on bush problem" then you will be into re-bushing at least one area so I would suggest you re-bush the lot to ensure even wear. If you do this you'll need the geometry set up anyway so the shims coming out shouldn't be an issue.
Also I wish I'd re-bushed mine when they were off I wouldn't be in the situation I am now, i.e. continually putting off the trailing arm removal due to the amount of work involved.
Mark
Also I wish I'd re-bushed mine when they were off I wouldn't be in the situation I am now, i.e. continually putting off the trailing arm removal due to the amount of work involved.
Mark
spivvy said:
ok how do i get the trailing arm bushes out without too much work 
There is no "no hard work" way unless you have a 10-tonne hydraulic press handy.
Assuming you haven't, you need to get the centre out first - now I tried drilling it and cutting it etc but in the end, I burnt them out - the rubber and the inner bush then drops out, leaving the outer metal sleeve in the arm.
Then you need to fold the sleeve in on itself - get a drift between the sleeve and the arm and bend the sleeve inwards at 2 or 3 points around its circumference. As it fold inwards, you can get a bigger drift and give it more welly, and batter the sleeve out the other side.
I cut through the sleeve first by putting a hacksaw blade through the hole, putting the saw onto the blade and then cutting through the sleeve outwards - if you are going to do this be carefull that you do not damage the arm abd create a stress point for future cracking to start from!
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