Wheel Bearings...Advice!!!
Discussion
Right peeps!
Need some help/advice!
Need to change a wheel bearing on me Orion!
'Cracked' the nut (and the socket and my back) and familiarised myself with the layout of the bearings etc 
so I don't F
k it up tomorrow when I finally bite the bullet and do the damn thing! But I need a few questions answering first!
1. The bearing kit came with 40mg of grease, which seems like rather alot. Where does all this grease go! (can someone explain to me which bits I need to grease! Please don't say "All of it"
)
2. Do I need to clean up the hub/shaft etc before I put in the new bearing?!?!?! Seems rather greasy/bit dirty/crappy in the bearing area!!
3. How tight should I do the nut back up?!?! I broke a socket undoing it! Should it be that Fg tight?!?!?!?! 
Helpfull answers in with all the usual jokes please
Cheers
Stuart!
Need some help/advice!
Need to change a wheel bearing on me Orion!
'Cracked' the nut (and the socket and my back) and familiarised myself with the layout of the bearings etc so I don't Fk it up tomorrow when I finally bite the bullet and do the damn thing! But I need a few questions answering first! 1. The bearing kit came with 40mg of grease, which seems like rather alot. Where does all this grease go! (can someone explain to me which bits I need to grease! Please don't say "All of it"
) 2. Do I need to clean up the hub/shaft etc before I put in the new bearing?!?!?! Seems rather greasy/bit dirty/crappy in the bearing area!!
3. How tight should I do the nut back up?!?! I broke a socket undoing it! Should it be that F
g tight?!?!?!?! Helpfull answers in with all the usual jokes please
Cheers
Stuart!
Mmmm The grease needs to sit on the tapered shaft and in the void between the two bearings. As for the pre load, you should consult the manual to find out the tightening procedure. This will either be load it to a torque then back off so many degrees or just load it to a torque. Yes you need to clean all the crap off the thing first. 
Cheers nonegreen!!!! Thats another owed pint 
Right, first prize goes to the person that can answer this last question!
Each individual bearing (inner and outer) comes in two pieces! One has all the bearings in it and a small, piece inside (these don't come apart) and a bigger piece which is in a wide cone shape!! Am I correct in thinking that this cone shape goes on the hub, for both inner and outer bearings and that the other piece sits on the shaft?!?!?! I'll have a clearer picture tomorrow when I whip the hub off but I need to replace the socket that was destroyed earlier (broke into 5 pieces)
Cheers
Stuart!
>> Edited by tvradict on Friday 29th March 01:16
Right, first prize goes to the person that can answer this last question!
Each individual bearing (inner and outer) comes in two pieces! One has all the bearings in it and a small, piece inside (these don't come apart) and a bigger piece which is in a wide cone shape!! Am I correct in thinking that this cone shape goes on the hub, for both inner and outer bearings and that the other piece sits on the shaft?!?!?! I'll have a clearer picture tomorrow when I whip the hub off but I need to replace the socket that was destroyed earlier (broke into 5 pieces
) Cheers
Stuart!
>> Edited by tvradict on Friday 29th March 01:16
If this is similar to a mondeo bearing (and being a Ford it could well be as new design is unknown to them), its a pig of a job to get the bearings out of the hub - get yourself a HUGE hammer and you'll need a f**k off big vice and a 2' piece of steel the diameter of the bearing to knock it out. Then you have to press the two new ones back in, WITHOUT using significant force. Took me about 3 hours to do one.
And yes, you do have to do it up tight afterwards (can't remember the torque rating, but its a lot!)
Enjoy!
And yes, you do have to do it up tight afterwards (can't remember the torque rating, but its a lot!)
Enjoy!
quote:
If this is similar to a mondeo bearing (and being a Ford it could well be as new design is unknown to them),
I think it is the same, the guy in the shop gave me a 1013 (wheel bearing kit stock number) and gave a guy looking for a bearing kit for a, yep, mondeo a 1013. So I'm assuming they are the same!!!
quote:
its a pig of a job to get the bearings out of the hub - get yourself a HUGE hammer and you'll need a f**k off big vice and a 2' piece of steel the diameter of the bearing to knock it out. Then you have to press the two new ones back in, WITHOUT using significant force. Took me about 3 hours to do one.
I have been told they have to be lined up nice a square, but would using a piece of wood and lightly tapping with a hammer (a small one) get it in easier?!?!?!
quote:
And yes, you do have to do it up tight afterwards (can't remember the torque rating, but its a lot!)
Can anybody remember the torque rating?! I read on here that the torque rating for something on the wheel of the 'S' is 300lb/ft! Thats more than my damn engine! I was told (by ford worryingly) that they should be done up until the wheel will spin freely but there is no play in the wheel! This sounds to me like a very scientific way to f
k it up! Anyone else tried this method?! quote:
Cheers nonegreen!!!! Thats another owed pint
Right, first prize goes to the person that can answer this last question!
Each individual bearing (inner and outer) comes in two pieces! One has all the bearings in it and a small, piece inside (these don't come apart) and a bigger piece which is in a wide cone shape!! Am I correct in thinking that this cone shape goes on the hub, for both inner and outer bearings and that the other piece sits on the shaft?!?!?! I'll have a clearer picture tomorrow when I whip the hub off but I need to replace the socket that was destroyed earlier (broke into 5 pieces
Cheers
Stuart!
>> Edited by tvradict on Friday 29th March 01:16
It appears these are standard taper roller bearings which means the cone bits should be next to each other in the hub when the assembly is made. I don't like the idea of tightening them until the wheel spins and there is no play. If you can't find the torque setting then tighten them slowly testing the wheel for its free spin ability until it starts to bind then back off until it spins freely again. Don't blame me if you f*** up the bearing though.
quote:
I have been told they have to be lined up nice a square, but would using a piece of wood and lightly tapping with a hammer (a small one) get it in easier?!?!?!
Ummm nope - They are a good interference fit in the hub. I used a vice to squeeze it in, with a long bar on the vice handle to provide the necessary load. Ideally this is a job for a fly press. You might consider putting the outer half in the freezer for a few hours before you try and fit them, and put the hub in the oven. Might be easier that way.
quote:
Can anybody remember the torque rating?! I read on here that the torque rating for something on the wheel of the 'S' is 300lb/ft! Thats more than my damn engine! I was told (by ford worryingly) that they should be done up until the wheel will spin freely but there is no play in the wheel! This sounds to me like a very scientific way to f
I seem to remember a figure of around 450ftlb - I'll be off home shortly and look it up for you, plus see if I can get you the "how to" from the Haynes manual... Thats if I don't stop off for a
or three first!!
Cheers All!
Quick update! Been out there for half an hour, got the hub off! Huge hammer was required for this! Saw the shocking state of the brakes, thankfully it was just superficial, cleaned them up! Looking like new! 
I started to sort the old bearings to make sure I had everything, the inners and the grease cap came away quite easily, there currently baking in the gorgeous sunshine that is cooking the west of scotland today!
But...
I can't free the outers from the inside of the hub. The Haynes Manual says to use a suitable punch, and there is an illustration of someone using a pahtetic looking hammer and an excuse for a screwdriver!!
Anyone got any better suggestions for getting these buggers free, I've tried using screwdrivers and hammers and coaxing them free etc etc etc but they don't want to budge! Would cooling them down work, but it would be difficult to cool them without cooling the hub!!! I give up, to cap it all, I need to use the car this afternoon and I've not even started putting the new bearings in!
Nevermind....
Cheers
Stuart!
Quick update! Been out there for half an hour, got the hub off! Huge hammer was required for this! Saw the shocking state of the brakes,
thankfully it was just superficial, cleaned them up! Looking like new! I started to sort the old bearings to make sure I had everything, the inners and the grease cap came away quite easily, there currently baking in the gorgeous sunshine that is cooking the west of scotland today!
But...
I can't free the outers from the inside of the hub. The Haynes Manual says to use a suitable punch, and there is an illustration of someone using a pahtetic looking hammer and an excuse for a screwdriver!!
Anyone got any better suggestions for getting these buggers free, I've tried using screwdrivers and hammers and coaxing them free etc etc etc but they don't want to budge! Would cooling them down work, but it would be difficult to cool them without cooling the hub!!! I give up, to cap it all, I need to use the car this afternoon and I've not even started putting the new bearings in!
Nevermind....
Cheers
Stuart!
quote:Would that not make the outer part brittle(sp?) when it warms up again, and when the cold outer is mated to the warm hub, would that not damage the outer???
You might consider putting the outer half in the freezer for a few hours before you try and fit them, and put the hub in the oven. Might be easier that way.
quote:
I seem to remember a figure of around 450ftlb - I'll be off home shortly and look it up for you, plus see if I can get you the "how to" from the Haynes manual... Thats if I don't stop off for a
450lb/ft no wonder I broke the socket!
I've got the haynes manual and all that, but it's my first bearing and I haven't got time to get this one wrong! And also the haynes manual isn't particularly clear on what to do, I need an idiots guide more than anything else!!!
Cheers
Stuart!
Thats why you need the BIG hammer, the BIG vice and the 2 foot long lump of steel bar - oh and Arnies arms - as I said it took about 3 hours to do the job, one side only and a good hour of that was getting the old outer bearings out of the hub - they are an interference fit so you need lots of grunt and thumping. The good thing is if you've got a grinder you can re-use them to push the new outer bearings back into the hub..... Pay the guy at the local garage £50 to do the job for you. Much easier LOL
quote:
It appears these are standard taper roller bearings
Thats the ones!
quote:
...which means the cone bits should be next to each other in the hub when the assembly is made.
Right again
quote:
I don't like the idea of tightening them until the wheel spins and there is no play.
I was a bit shocked by that too! And it came from FORD! If thats what they do when you put your Mondeo/Focus/Escort/Galaxy in for bearings, imagine the number a vehicles running around with shagged bearings!!!
quote:
If you can't find the torque setting then tighten them slowly testing the wheel for its free spin ability until it starts to bind then back off until it spins freely again.
Cheers. will do, sounds like a better Idea than the Ford one!
quote:
Don't blame me if you f*** up the bearing though.
Wouldn't dream of it!!!
quote:
Thats why you need the BIG hammer, the BIG vice and the 2 foot long lump of steel bar - oh and Arnies arms - as I said it took about 3 hours to do the job, one side only and a good hour of that was getting the old outer bearings out of the hub - they are an interference fit so you need lots of grunt and thumping. The good thing is if you've got a grinder you can re-use them to push the new outer bearings back into the hub..... Pay the guy at the local garage £50 to do the job for you. Much easier LOL
Haven't got a BIG Vice or Arnies arms, but grunt I can handle! Oh, and I'm missing the steel bar too!
I can see this turning into an all day job!
I asked how much the garage would charge for the job, I won't tell you! You'll make loud noises without knowing about it!! People will point and laugh as you shreek several times very loudly and then wonder what everyone is looking at!!!
Well, thats half an hour and both outers are....out!!!
Small amount of superficial damage done to the hub but I can remedy that no probs!! It was easy! The oven method of putting the outers in gave me the idea!
Set the oven to Gas Mark 9 or the highest temperature and bake for 10-15 minutes (they taste good with tomato sauce so I'm told), remove from oven, place on a workbench or similar and melt an Ice Cube on one of the outers, then using a BIG Screwdriver and a BIGGER hammer bash said outer free, the lovely noise of metal hitting concrete tells you when it is done! Return to the oven for a further 10-15 minutes and do the same with the other side!! Which is the stage I am at! No grunt required! You need to apply a small amount of force, but once it's moving it just falls out!! Cracking!!
Thanks for all the tips guys, I owe you all a pint!!!
Cheers
Stuart!!
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