Things to replace while the body's off - a little advice

[dixieflatline]

Now that the body's off my S3 I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for upgrades that would be easy to do now, but not after it's gone back on?

The only big upgrade I have planned is the shocks - the old ones are past it and replacing them with the original Konis is just as expensive as upgrading to Gaz nickels/golds. Obviously I'll be replacing the essentials (bushes, brakes etc.) and anything that's worn out (top ball joints, brake servo) first, so it's really the non-essential but wise upgrades I'm thinking of. For example, the drop links seem ok but upgrading to Steve Heath drop links seems like it might be a good idea.

It may well be that when I've replaced everything that needs replacing there won't be much money left for anything else and my priority is to get the car on the road as close to factory spec as possible. Not having driven it yet, I'd like to see what it's like as TVR intended before worrying about upgrades! Having said that I don't want to reassemble the car and then find that there was a small, relatively inexpensive improvement I should have made while I had it all apart and accessible.

Thanks

Tom

[tinks v8S]

i would replace the fuel line aswell even if it looks ok

[ketvrin]

I would definitely replace the engine mounts and gearbox mount while the body is off.
Check the prop-shaft UJ's too

fuel filter will be easier to get at when the body is off

K

[Barkychoc]

Speaking from experience just replace items that you must remove the body to replace or are much easier to replace.
Brake and fuel lines for sure as they are a pig with the body on.
Shocks and springs don't need the body off, in fact a lot of items don't really

[Brendon NZ]

Agree with all above.
Also do the diff and gear box fluid changes, grease the prop shaft and change oil filter.
I would also replace all brake lines and check the copper brake line that runs along the middle of the chassis...mine was rubbing and had a small "bald patch" that was soft to touch and would of holed some time soon....would of been very hard to repair or replace with the body on.

[Barkychoc]

Also have a long hard think what you're going to do with the chassis.
If you're planning to spend hours and hours with a wire brush I'd recommend you spend those hours with a spanner and completely strip the chassis, then get it shotblasted (cost me just over £100) and then powder coated, possibly with a zinc based coating before hand. My powder coating cost £100 for loads of bits, you may have to pay a tad more but think hard how much primer & paint you will have to buy, not forgetting brushes, thinners, new jeans when you've ruined the ones you have on, plus a new hall carpet with all the crap you walk in the house......

I can honestly say the full strip, shotblast and powder coating was by far the best decision I made.

Before



After

[dixieflatline]

Barkychoc said:

If you're planning to spend hours and hours with a wire brush I'd recommend you spend those hours with a spanner and completely strip the chassis, then get it shotblasted (cost me just over £100) and then powder coated, possibly with a zinc based coating before hand.

Already stripped the chassis! I'm just waiting for the new fuel tank bracket to be finished and then the chassis plus a big pile of bits is going off to be shotblasted. I was originally going to do it myself but after realising how long it would take (I spent an afternoon stripping back the engine bay and after seeing how far I got I began to realise the scale of the task) and how little it would cost to get it shotblasted I decided that getting it done professionally was a much better idea.

Thanks for the advice everyone - it seems like the best philosophy is if I can get to it now, then now is the time to replace it.

[Jed-S]

I'd also replace the clutch while the engine is out (or at least inspect it) and while you've got the gearbox off I would also replace the rear crank seal.

[dixieflatline]

Yep clutch is definitely being replaced - the old one is completely shot. Didn't know about the crank seal though, thanks for the tip.

[Barkychoc]

Also have a backup plan as when you've had it shotblasted you may find a few extra holes you didn't know about - so have a plan B if you intended to take it straight from the blasting to be powder coated, it may need a few welding repairs.

[lou4010]

When doing the clutch I would replace the spigot bearing as well.
Only a couple of quid.

[dixieflatline]

Barkychoc said:

Also have a backup plan as when you've had it shotblasted you may find a few extra holes you didn't know about - so have a plan B if you intended to take it straight from the blasting to be powder coated, it may need a few welding repairs.

I've been worrying about that - the same place is shotblasting it and powdercoating it so I won't be getting it back in between! I'm going to speak to him when I take it in and make sure he gives me a call if anything unexpected turns up.