what the F***K do I do now!
Discussion
Firstly thanks to everyone who responded to my last post requesting info on removing the trailing arm one of the joys of S series ownership is the feeling of being "in it together".
Anyway a quick update (and insight into my impetuous nature):
1) chassis clean commenced
2) rust bleb noted on near side trailing arm
3) screwdriver through hole in trailing arm
4) hole enlarges to stupendous dimensions
5) decide to remove and refurb (other side sorted nicely by Adrian Venn last year).
6) Source 41 inch socket, breaker bar and the longest steel extension bar youve ever seen
7) fit it all to the hub nut and jump up (carefully) and down on the assemblage.
8) surprisingly it moves suspiciously easily (great I think)
9) keep going.....
10) and suddenly realise I've stripped the threads (probably because I'd been torquing it the wrong way...doh.
What the hell do I do now?
Anyway a quick update (and insight into my impetuous nature):
1) chassis clean commenced
2) rust bleb noted on near side trailing arm
3) screwdriver through hole in trailing arm
4) hole enlarges to stupendous dimensions
5) decide to remove and refurb (other side sorted nicely by Adrian Venn last year).
6) Source 41 inch socket, breaker bar and the longest steel extension bar youve ever seen
7) fit it all to the hub nut and jump up (carefully) and down on the assemblage.
8) surprisingly it moves suspiciously easily (great I think)
9) keep going.....
10) and suddenly realise I've stripped the threads (probably because I'd been torquing it the wrong way...doh.
What the hell do I do now?
You would have had to be REALLY horsing it to strip the threads - the specified torque is effing ginormous (think "swinging on 4 foot torque bar with foot against bench to prevent your whole garage turning over" tight) - I suspect that maybe it's just the nyloc sticking on the exposed threads...
Can you see enough of the thread ends to see if they are LH or RH?
Anyway, not the end of the world: even if the spindle thread is stripped, you only need to change the splines on the end of the driveshaft.
Know somebody who did this on a rear bearing on a FWD hatch, and had to change the whole beam axle!
Edited because I thought you were talking about your other thread on FRONT wheel bearings!
Can you see enough of the thread ends to see if they are LH or RH?
Anyway, not the end of the world: even if the spindle thread is stripped, you only need to change the splines on the end of the driveshaft.
Know somebody who did this on a rear bearing on a FWD hatch, and had to change the whole beam axle!
Edited because I thought you were talking about your other thread on FRONT wheel bearings!
Edited by tvrgit on Saturday 27th February 21:47
No I'm certain it's stripped, the nut turns but the wheel and spindle dont.
It was a 6 foot extension bar and my 13 stones of weight, it just sort of turned slowly and ....bingo oohhh noooo.
So if the nut is stuck on and stripped how do I proceed ...
It was a 6 foot extension bar and my 13 stones of weight, it just sort of turned slowly and ....bingo oohhh noooo.
So if the nut is stuck on and stripped how do I proceed ...
Edited by JT on Saturday 27th February 21:48
JT said:
No I'm certain it's stripped, the nut turns but the wheel and spindle dont.
It was a 6 foot extension bar and my 13 stones of weight, it just sort of turned slowly and ....bingo oohhh noooo
The spindle won't turn unless the driveshaft does - and the wheel won't turn either because it's fixed to the driveshaft until you knock it out of the splines...It was a 6 foot extension bar and my 13 stones of weight, it just sort of turned slowly and ....bingo oohhh noooo
I would be very suprised if you have stripped the threads on the shaft,my money is on the nut as it should be made of a softer metal than the splined shaft.
According to the Haynes Manual it is the left side wheel which has a left hand thread ie undoes clockwise, which I am suprised at as I would have expected it to be the right hand side?, maybe someone who has done it could confirm this is correct, at least then you will know which way you should be turning unless of course you can see the end of the threads.
As has been said, its not the end of the world, its only a sierra driveshaft someone must have a spare going cheap and its probably easier to replace the full shaft.If all else fails you could drill a series of holes into one of the flats on the nut , then split it with a chisel but thats taking it to the extreme, if the threads have gone keep turning it a few times to clear the debris then there is no reason why it shouldnt come off easily (relatively)
According to the Haynes Manual it is the left side wheel which has a left hand thread ie undoes clockwise, which I am suprised at as I would have expected it to be the right hand side?, maybe someone who has done it could confirm this is correct, at least then you will know which way you should be turning unless of course you can see the end of the threads.
As has been said, its not the end of the world, its only a sierra driveshaft someone must have a spare going cheap and its probably easier to replace the full shaft.If all else fails you could drill a series of holes into one of the flats on the nut , then split it with a chisel but thats taking it to the extreme, if the threads have gone keep turning it a few times to clear the debris then there is no reason why it shouldnt come off easily (relatively)
Don't panic is the advice I'd give - they are only sierra bits not ferrari so its all fixable at low cost - make your priority not to cause any damage to the trailing arm - if you have to chop the hub away with an angle grinder its not the end of the world, just don't burn down your garage with the sparks - it happens! 
clarenceboddiger said:
According to the Haynes Manual it is the left side wheel which has a left hand thread ie undoes clockwise, which I am suprised at as I would have expected it to be the right hand side?, maybe someone who has done it could confirm this is correct, at least then you will know which way you should be turning unless of course you can see the end of the threads.
Have done nearside rear wheel bearing recently and it is definitely nearside that has left hand thread. Very surprised you've stripped the thread though as when tightening mine I actually lifted that wheel off the Ramp before achieving the required torque.Does surprise me as well Ken, as I would have thought the same as you anticlockwise tighten on anti-clockwise rotation - forward motion.
Mark
Edited by mep12345 on Sunday 28th February 11:13
mep12345 said:
Have done nearside rear wheel bearing recently and it is definitely nearside that has left hand thread. Very surprised you've stripped the thread though as when tightening mine I actually lifted that wheel off the Ramp before achieving the required torque.
Does surprise me as well Ken, as I would have thought the same as you anticlockwise tighten on anti-clockwise rotation - forward motion.
Mark
Agree that's logical - but you don't know if somebody has changed a driveshaft at some point complete with hub, and just put the whole thing on. Does surprise me as well Ken, as I would have thought the same as you anticlockwise tighten on anti-clockwise rotation - forward motion.
Mark
More likely, you don't know which driveshaft the man in Bristol Avenue picked up at the time!
But again agree, the torque on these is so high that you'd really have to be going some to strip the thread.
tvrgit said:
mep12345 said:
Have done nearside rear wheel bearing recently and it is definitely nearside that has left hand thread. Very surprised you've stripped the thread though as when tightening mine I actually lifted that wheel off the Ramp before achieving the required torque.
Does surprise me as well Ken, as I would have thought the same as you anticlockwise tighten on anti-clockwise rotation - forward motion.
Mark
Agree that's logical - but you don't know if somebody has changed a driveshaft at some point complete with hub, and just put the whole thing on. Does surprise me as well Ken, as I would have thought the same as you anticlockwise tighten on anti-clockwise rotation - forward motion.
Mark
More likely, you don't know which driveshaft the man in Bristol Avenue picked up at the time!
But again agree, the torque on these is so high that you'd really have to be going some to strip the thread.
Mark, I wasn't suggesting that the the LH Thread / RH thread thoery was wrong - just that it might not necessarily still be like that after 20 years or so...
My advice earlier was to look at the exposed threads and SEE if it's LH or RH thread - that's the only way to be absolutely sure that you're not turning it the wrong way on your particular car!
My advice earlier was to look at the exposed threads and SEE if it's LH or RH thread - that's the only way to be absolutely sure that you're not turning it the wrong way on your particular car!
tvrgit said:
Mark, I wasn't suggesting that the the LH Thread / RH thread thoery was wrong - just that it might not necessarily still be like that after 20 years or so...
My advice earlier was to look at the exposed threads and SEE if it's LH or RH thread - that's the only way to be absolutely sure that you're not turning it the wrong way on your particular car!
Ahhhh now I understand, didn't mean to My advice earlier was to look at the exposed threads and SEE if it's LH or RH thread - that's the only way to be absolutely sure that you're not turning it the wrong way on your particular car!
Sorry and see your point nowOk made a lot of progress today.
brakes stripped, fixing nuts and bolts loosened,
lack of torx socket head stopped play before dark but it's nearly off thank goodness.
As predicited I was turning the hub nut the wrong way and yes it's definately stripped.
I havn't had much luck removing it - it just keeps turning and turning. Tried a chisel, hub extracter and teeth gnashing but to no avail.
So it sounds like a new hub is going to be required.
Anyone got any spares knocking about?
brakes stripped, fixing nuts and bolts loosened,
lack of torx socket head stopped play before dark but it's nearly off thank goodness.
As predicited I was turning the hub nut the wrong way and yes it's definately stripped.
I havn't had much luck removing it - it just keeps turning and turning. Tried a chisel, hub extracter and teeth gnashing but to no avail.
So it sounds like a new hub is going to be required.
Anyone got any spares knocking about?
I reckon that if you get the CV joint undone (get a good torx bit - it makes the job much easier) then use a drift and hammer you should be able to know the splines inwards and through the nut if it the nut that has stripped, if it is the splined shaft that has stripped then you'll need to replace this bit so I'd suggest taking a grinder to it carefully.
Do you know which is striped yet, splined shaft or nut?
Norm (Gerald-TVR) still had the driveshafts on the S he's breaking when I picked up the engine the other week could always ask him if they're for sale
Mark
Do you know which is striped yet, splined shaft or nut?
Norm (Gerald-TVR) still had the driveshafts on the S he's breaking when I picked up the engine the other week could always ask him if they're for sale
Mark
Can't picture how much room there is around the nut, could you get at it with a small angle grinder or maybe a Dremel and virtually cut through then split with a chisel ?
Those Torx bolts can be seriously tight, I broke a couple of torx sockets before buying a decent Britool set last year when changing my CV's.
Good Luck !
JT said:
Ok made a lot of progress today.
brakes stripped, fixing nuts and bolts loosened,
lack of torx socket head stopped play before dark but it's nearly off thank goodness.
As predicited I was turning the hub nut the wrong way and yes it's definately stripped.
I havn't had much luck removing it - it just keeps turning and turning. Tried a chisel, hub extracter and teeth gnashing but to no avail.
So it sounds like a new hub is going to be required.
Anyone got any spares knocking about?
Try tapping the corners of the hexagon a bit flat so that you have to tap the socket on ( I dont mean with a sledge hammer and dont knock it fully on, that way you can get a pry bar behind it to get it off) then put a pulling force on the socket as you turn it, it should pick up on a thread, if it doesnt you can always pry/tap the socket back off. brakes stripped, fixing nuts and bolts loosened,
lack of torx socket head stopped play before dark but it's nearly off thank goodness.
As predicited I was turning the hub nut the wrong way and yes it's definately stripped.
I havn't had much luck removing it - it just keeps turning and turning. Tried a chisel, hub extracter and teeth gnashing but to no avail.
So it sounds like a new hub is going to be required.
Anyone got any spares knocking about?
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