Tile colours for a bathroom need ideas...
Discussion
Im currently in the throws of getting a complete wetroom done in replacement of the bath in the bathroom, just trying to choose the tiles, we will be going for Travertine as thats whats recommended by the builder/tiler as the best for the wetroom.
BTW, its only a partial wetroom where the tray should be.
I have just got told that having a beige/brownish tile in a room that is 2.2m - 1.6m will make it look smaller and a bit s
t (her words)...
So need to find a good colour combo that works for full floor and walls being tiled with a sash window at one end (victorian flat)....
Currently thing of mosaic for the shower area and larger tiles for everything else to offer a bit of something different to break up the same colour everywhere.
Also has anyone got any good sites for buying the seperate sections of the suite and towel rail?
Only been looking 2 days so its not like we have been slacking...
BTW, its only a partial wetroom where the tray should be.
I have just got told that having a beige/brownish tile in a room that is 2.2m - 1.6m will make it look smaller and a bit s
t (her words)...So need to find a good colour combo that works for full floor and walls being tiled with a sash window at one end (victorian flat)....
Currently thing of mosaic for the shower area and larger tiles for everything else to offer a bit of something different to break up the same colour everywhere.
Also has anyone got any good sites for buying the seperate sections of the suite and towel rail?
Only been looking 2 days so its not like we have been slacking...
Mosaics in a shower can be a pain to keep clean as there is lots of grout.
If it's a small room then a gloss travertine (or similar) would look nice - I've done it in our utility room with a marble mosaic border.
Have a look at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php... for some ideas!
If it's a small room then a gloss travertine (or similar) would look nice - I've done it in our utility room with a marble mosaic border.
Have a look at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php... for some ideas!
I've thought about this for years but never had the guts to do without a bath even if I never actually have a bath.
I don't see whats wrong with a beige tile or why that would make a room look small? I would avoid small tiles like Mosaic, bigger is better looking and more modern.
Maybe a different tile for the flooring to break up the colour a little.
I don't see whats wrong with a beige tile or why that would make a room look small? I would avoid small tiles like Mosaic, bigger is better looking and more modern.
Maybe a different tile for the flooring to break up the colour a little.
Im trying to work out what is best for the room...
I need to find a toilet and basin (on a pedestal) that looks good but not designer expensive... Can people honestly tell a cheap suite from a £Xk suite or as long as it looks good there should be no issues?
The plumber actually said that the IKEA basin and pedestal is very good value and quite reasonable (he haqs one in his london home), something like these:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S098586...
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S398585...
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S698586...
OH thinks this:
http://www.victoriaplumb.com/Bathroom-Furniture/We...
The shower will be built into the wall something like this:
http://www.betterbathrooms.com/showers/shower-head...
I would like a combination of this:
http://www.betterbathrooms.com/showers/shower-rail...
but hiding most in the wall (so only valves, top shower head and a fixing point for the bottom shower section)
The lights are going to be dimmable LED down lights.
Big glass screen
Toilet - no idea as the all look the same.
Towel rail - no idea but must have 600mm connections on it??
Mirror would be lit, but cant be bothered with having all the wiring under the floor and outside the door.
Anyone know of any good value websites that I can get most things?
I suspect that most of my weekend will be picking tiles... was thinking just plain with no patterns.... maybe a boarder of moasic tiles half way up the wall to break it up and slightly different shades from wall to floor, with this in the shower area (due to gradient of wetroom section) on walls and floors?
http://www.mosaictileshop.co.uk/basicsearch.asp?ar...
http://www.mosaictileshop.co.uk/product.asp?produc...
although any advice you guys have on this would be great.
I need to find a toilet and basin (on a pedestal) that looks good but not designer expensive... Can people honestly tell a cheap suite from a £Xk suite or as long as it looks good there should be no issues?
The plumber actually said that the IKEA basin and pedestal is very good value and quite reasonable (he haqs one in his london home), something like these:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S098586...
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S398585...
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S698586...
OH thinks this:
http://www.victoriaplumb.com/Bathroom-Furniture/We...
The shower will be built into the wall something like this:
http://www.betterbathrooms.com/showers/shower-head...
I would like a combination of this:
http://www.betterbathrooms.com/showers/shower-rail...
but hiding most in the wall (so only valves, top shower head and a fixing point for the bottom shower section)
The lights are going to be dimmable LED down lights.
Big glass screen
Toilet - no idea as the all look the same.
Towel rail - no idea but must have 600mm connections on it??
Mirror would be lit, but cant be bothered with having all the wiring under the floor and outside the door.
Anyone know of any good value websites that I can get most things?
I suspect that most of my weekend will be picking tiles... was thinking just plain with no patterns.... maybe a boarder of moasic tiles half way up the wall to break it up and slightly different shades from wall to floor, with this in the shower area (due to gradient of wetroom section) on walls and floors?
http://www.mosaictileshop.co.uk/basicsearch.asp?ar...
http://www.mosaictileshop.co.uk/product.asp?produc...
although any advice you guys have on this would be great.
hey Dupont,
If you are going to use trav, avoid tumbled as it will need filling and sealing a number of times. As it happens, travertine is possibly one of the worst applications for a wet room! But it does look very nice if fixed correctly. The main issue is that it is very, very porous (even when polished) and will need sealing before and after fitting and sealing at regular intervals (12mths). It is also very brittle and unless you have prepared the substrates correctly you will get tile failure. Notwithstanding that, make sure that there is absolutley no deflection on the substrate and replace with min 25mm ply if there is. With trav and wooden substrates it is essential you use a decoupling membrane (the majority are also waterproof). Only use modified flexible cement adhesives (nothing tubbed) flexible grout with antibacterial additives and you should be ok. Mosaics are good for the wet floor former as unless they are large mosaics, you will be able to follow the falls of the tray without enveloping them. If you havnt bought them yet, you can get polished porcelain tiles that are pretty much identical to the look of trav...the same fitting is required but the on-going maintainace isn't. Just out of interest, is your builder a builder, or a tiler? There is a big difference. I have seen some horrendous work that I have repaired in the last year, done by builders.
Hope this helps
Ed
If you are going to use trav, avoid tumbled as it will need filling and sealing a number of times. As it happens, travertine is possibly one of the worst applications for a wet room! But it does look very nice if fixed correctly. The main issue is that it is very, very porous (even when polished) and will need sealing before and after fitting and sealing at regular intervals (12mths). It is also very brittle and unless you have prepared the substrates correctly you will get tile failure. Notwithstanding that, make sure that there is absolutley no deflection on the substrate and replace with min 25mm ply if there is. With trav and wooden substrates it is essential you use a decoupling membrane (the majority are also waterproof). Only use modified flexible cement adhesives (nothing tubbed) flexible grout with antibacterial additives and you should be ok. Mosaics are good for the wet floor former as unless they are large mosaics, you will be able to follow the falls of the tray without enveloping them. If you havnt bought them yet, you can get polished porcelain tiles that are pretty much identical to the look of trav...the same fitting is required but the on-going maintainace isn't. Just out of interest, is your builder a builder, or a tiler? There is a big difference. I have seen some horrendous work that I have repaired in the last year, done by builders.
Hope this helps
Ed
Hey Tuna,
Try... http://www.ctdtiles.co.uk/branches.aspx?page=East%... this is where I get all my trade stuff from....incredibly helpfull and always good value....good value on Mapei adhesives too. Although same thing applies to honed and filled trav(not polished) it does need a lot of upkeep, but looks excellent.
Ed
Try... http://www.ctdtiles.co.uk/branches.aspx?page=East%... this is where I get all my trade stuff from....incredibly helpfull and always good value....good value on Mapei adhesives too. Although same thing applies to honed and filled trav(not polished) it does need a lot of upkeep, but looks excellent.
Ed
Edited by TVR1 on Wednesday 27th January 12:25
TVR1 said:
hey Dupont,
If you are going to use trav, avoid tumbled as it will need filling and sealing a number of times. As it happens, travertine is possibly one of the worst applications for a wet room! But it does look very nice if fixed correctly. The main issue is that it is very, very porous (even when polished) and will need sealing before and after fitting and sealing at regular intervals (12mths). It is also very brittle and unless you have prepared the substrates correctly you will get tile failure. Notwithstanding that, make sure that there is absolutley no deflection on the substrate and replace with min 25mm ply if there is. With trav and wooden substrates it is essential you use a decoupling membrane (the majority are also waterproof). Only use modified flexible cement adhesives (nothing tubbed) flexible grout with antibacterial additives and you should be ok. Mosaics are good for the wet floor former as unless they are large mosaics, you will be able to follow the falls of the tray without enveloping them. If you havnt bought them yet, you can get polished porcelain tiles that are pretty much identical to the look of trav...the same fitting is required but the on-going maintainace isn't. Just out of interest, is your builder a builder, or a tiler? There is a big difference. I have seen some horrendous work that I have repaired in the last year, done by builders.
Hope this helps
Ed
He is a tiler, along with a seperate plumber for the suite and an electrican for the lights, underfloor heating and extractor.If you are going to use trav, avoid tumbled as it will need filling and sealing a number of times. As it happens, travertine is possibly one of the worst applications for a wet room! But it does look very nice if fixed correctly. The main issue is that it is very, very porous (even when polished) and will need sealing before and after fitting and sealing at regular intervals (12mths). It is also very brittle and unless you have prepared the substrates correctly you will get tile failure. Notwithstanding that, make sure that there is absolutley no deflection on the substrate and replace with min 25mm ply if there is. With trav and wooden substrates it is essential you use a decoupling membrane (the majority are also waterproof). Only use modified flexible cement adhesives (nothing tubbed) flexible grout with antibacterial additives and you should be ok. Mosaics are good for the wet floor former as unless they are large mosaics, you will be able to follow the falls of the tray without enveloping them. If you havnt bought them yet, you can get polished porcelain tiles that are pretty much identical to the look of trav...the same fitting is required but the on-going maintainace isn't. Just out of interest, is your builder a builder, or a tiler? There is a big difference. I have seen some horrendous work that I have repaired in the last year, done by builders.
Hope this helps
Ed
I have his quote now and could put it up here to see what you think to the work and effort is involved?
The tiler likes to work in trav over limestone and has done many wetrooms before but not mentioned the maintainance, but the OH was asking about the porous nature and what anti bacterial grout he would be using (shes finish and they live in wetrooms so she has knowledge). polished porcelain tiles look like trav (weathered look?) not tumbled?
this the quote so far... (cant be bothered removing the prices:
1)tilers's quote:
To remove and dispose of existing bathroom and laminate flooring ( with Plumber) , to remove ceiling coving and to repair and skim ceiling , to supply and install tile board to shower area walls , prepare/ make flat remaining walls for tiling , to supply and install wetroom shower tray and waste unit ( with Plumber) , to secure floorboards , supply and fix 18mm ply and underfloor heating system and cover with flexible levelling compound, , to waterproof/tank all wet areas , to tile tray , floors and walls with natural stone (as discussed) and to install shower screen. Labour = £1750. Materials : Tileboard = £60 , Plaster = £25 , Plasterboard = £15 , wetroom shower tray and waste = £190 , 18mm ply = £60 , Tanking system = £110 , Underfloor heating system ( 'Warm Up' 150w , with programmable thermostat_ = £193 , Flexible compound = £32 , Flexible tile adhesive = £120 , Flexible grout = £35 , Stone sealant = £15 , PVA , spacers , silicon sealant = £12. TOTAL = £2617
2) plumber's quote:
To fit recessed shower mixer and fixed and hand held head , To install wetroom drain ( inside and out) , to install new toilet in new position , new basin and cabinet in new position , and to cut and cap radiator tails under the floor. Labour = £1600 , Fixings = £200. TOTAL = £1800
In addtion there is remove all the plasterboard around the shower area ( which isn't really appropriate for a wet area anyway) and replace it with waterproof cement based tileboard. . Also the entire shower area will have to be further waterproofed with a 'tanking ' system ( a thick waterproof paste) , and ideally the floor also - so this is included in the quotation.
Electrician has not given quote yet.
1)tilers's quote:
To remove and dispose of existing bathroom and laminate flooring ( with Plumber) , to remove ceiling coving and to repair and skim ceiling , to supply and install tile board to shower area walls , prepare/ make flat remaining walls for tiling , to supply and install wetroom shower tray and waste unit ( with Plumber) , to secure floorboards , supply and fix 18mm ply and underfloor heating system and cover with flexible levelling compound, , to waterproof/tank all wet areas , to tile tray , floors and walls with natural stone (as discussed) and to install shower screen. Labour = £1750. Materials : Tileboard = £60 , Plaster = £25 , Plasterboard = £15 , wetroom shower tray and waste = £190 , 18mm ply = £60 , Tanking system = £110 , Underfloor heating system ( 'Warm Up' 150w , with programmable thermostat_ = £193 , Flexible compound = £32 , Flexible tile adhesive = £120 , Flexible grout = £35 , Stone sealant = £15 , PVA , spacers , silicon sealant = £12. TOTAL = £2617
2) plumber's quote:
To fit recessed shower mixer and fixed and hand held head , To install wetroom drain ( inside and out) , to install new toilet in new position , new basin and cabinet in new position , and to cut and cap radiator tails under the floor. Labour = £1600 , Fixings = £200. TOTAL = £1800
In addtion there is remove all the plasterboard around the shower area ( which isn't really appropriate for a wet area anyway) and replace it with waterproof cement based tileboard. . Also the entire shower area will have to be further waterproofed with a 'tanking ' system ( a thick waterproof paste) , and ideally the floor also - so this is included in the quotation.
Electrician has not given quote yet.
Edited by Dupont666 on Wednesday 27th January 12:34
Dupont666 said:
this the quote so far... (cant be bothered removing the prices:
1)tilers's quote:
To remove and dispose of existing bathroom and laminate flooring ( with Hugo) , to remove ceiling coving and to repair and skim ceiling , to supply and install tile board to shower area walls , prepare/ make flat remaining walls for tiling , to supply and install wetroom shower tray and waste unit ( with Hugo) , to secure floorboards , supply and fix 18mm ply and underfloor heating system and cover with flexible levelling compound, , to waterproof/tank all wet areas , to tile tray , floors and walls with natural stone (as discussed) and to install shower screen. Labour = £1750. Materials : Tileboard = £60 , Plaster = £25 , Plasterboard = £15 , wetroom shower tray and waste = £190 , 18mm ply = £60 , Tanking system = £110 , Underfloor heating system ( 'Warm Up' 150w , with programmable thermostat_ = £193 , Flexible compound = £32 , Flexible tile adhesive = £120 , Flexible grout = £35 , Stone sealant = £15 , PVA , spacers , silicon sealant = £12. TOTAL = £2617
2) plumber's quote:
To fit recessed shower mixer and fixed and hand held head , To install wetroom drain ( inside and out) , to install new toilet in new position , new basin and cabinet in new position , and to cut and cap radiator tails under the floor. Labour = £1600 , Fixings = £200. TOTAL = £1800
In addtion there is remove all the plasterboard around the shower area ( which isn't really appropriate for a wet area anyway) and replace it with waterproof cement based tileboard. . Also the entire shower area will have to be further waterproofed with a 'tanking ' system ( a thick waterproof paste) , and ideally the floor also - so this is included in the quotation.
Electrician has not given quote yet.
Wouldnt like to comment on his labour costs, although to me it seems a bit low, only a bit mind and I live in West London so the cost of living is a bit more over this way.1)tilers's quote:
To remove and dispose of existing bathroom and laminate flooring ( with Hugo) , to remove ceiling coving and to repair and skim ceiling , to supply and install tile board to shower area walls , prepare/ make flat remaining walls for tiling , to supply and install wetroom shower tray and waste unit ( with Hugo) , to secure floorboards , supply and fix 18mm ply and underfloor heating system and cover with flexible levelling compound, , to waterproof/tank all wet areas , to tile tray , floors and walls with natural stone (as discussed) and to install shower screen. Labour = £1750. Materials : Tileboard = £60 , Plaster = £25 , Plasterboard = £15 , wetroom shower tray and waste = £190 , 18mm ply = £60 , Tanking system = £110 , Underfloor heating system ( 'Warm Up' 150w , with programmable thermostat_ = £193 , Flexible compound = £32 , Flexible tile adhesive = £120 , Flexible grout = £35 , Stone sealant = £15 , PVA , spacers , silicon sealant = £12. TOTAL = £2617
2) plumber's quote:
To fit recessed shower mixer and fixed and hand held head , To install wetroom drain ( inside and out) , to install new toilet in new position , new basin and cabinet in new position , and to cut and cap radiator tails under the floor. Labour = £1600 , Fixings = £200. TOTAL = £1800
In addtion there is remove all the plasterboard around the shower area ( which isn't really appropriate for a wet area anyway) and replace it with waterproof cement based tileboard. . Also the entire shower area will have to be further waterproofed with a 'tanking ' system ( a thick waterproof paste) , and ideally the floor also - so this is included in the quotation.
Electrician has not given quote yet.
A couple of queries though, what type of former/tray? That is not much for a good quality one. Is it self supporting or not? The floor prep is essential, if the boards aren't tongue and groove best solution is not to overboard but use 25mm minimum ply. Also essential that they are screwed in at 300mm centres if possible (the joists will need noggins if you do this correctly) Self levelling is ok but the floor MUST have a decoupling membrane, UFH cable goes over that in the adhesive bed and then tiles-the liquid membrane is not suitable for this application.Also, be carefull on the walls as the liquid membrane will reach its maximum weight loading ability very quickly with trav, Its always best to use cement board/aqua panel etc.Where is he putting the plasterboard? If its to re-do a wall, use the aqua boards instead. Remember that plaster needs 1 week per mm to dry correctly-to be honest, I think he has underestimated the cost of materials...he is probably trying to do the right thing by you (which is admirable) but I would let him know that you would like him to recheck his figures! Don't be afraid to spend a little more to get the correct materials. I would never wish to criticize another tradesman on a public forum, but if you want a chat PM me. Although...the plumber IS having a laugh....most of what he is doing should be done together with the prep work for the tiler....I cant see that being any more than 2 real days work in prep. also the tiler should be quite capable of fitting the UFH cable, yes the electrician needs to be the one to connect to the mains/thermostat. Also, make sure that they all have Public Liability Insurance-it only costs around £90.00 a year(£1 mill cover) and covers you if they screw up.
Ed
Edited by TVR1 on Wednesday 27th January 13:11
And also, you say the tiles arn't tumbled but weathered?......I'm a bit confused?....you will normally find 3 types...1- tumbled/natural rectified (with all the holes still in them for want of a better description but either the tiles machine squared off or chipped look)2- honed and filled (with all the holes filled) but still left with a matt finish-retains the 'natural' stone look,. 3. Polished (honed and filled and then machine polished to a high gloss finish. Im guessing you are talking honed and filled? They will need sealing before fitting and after. White adhesives only, antibacterial grout and silicone (look for Microban)
TVR1 said:
And also, you say the tiles arn't tumbled but weathered?......I'm a bit confused?....you will normally find 3 types...1- tumbled/natural rectified (with all the holes still in them for want of a better description but either the tiles machine squared off or chipped look)2- honed and filled (with all the holes filled) but still left with a matt finish-retains the 'natural' stone look,. 3. Polished (honed and filled and then machine polished to a high gloss finish. Im guessing you are talking honed and filled? They will need sealing before fitting and after. White adhesives only, antibacterial grout and silicone (look for Microban)
Was looking for the non polished tiles as how are polished tiles to step on after a wet shower?wanted the kind of matt look and not be blinded once the lights are all in off the reflections
Dupont666 said:
The plumber does have to go outside and get to the 2nd floor to reposition the drain a good 6" further down so assume the costs are there
I still think it is very erm 'steep'. The thing is, most of what he is doing requires very little extra prep work. Because you are already ripping most of the bathroom out, he pretty much has a 'blank canvas' to work with.As an idea, I have just quoted on a bathroom and wetroom in the same house. approx 45sq/m trav. Now I don't have to move sanitarywear or install UFH but I'm still doing the floor prep, tanking tiling etc(former is bought already). The only extra that I have is for filling the trav myself as the customer bought unfilled (now that is a b##ch of a job) but I'm looking at just under £3000 for([probably) nearly double your area.
Dupont666 said:
TVR1 said:
And also, you say the tiles arn't tumbled but weathered?......I'm a bit confused?....you will normally find 3 types...1- tumbled/natural rectified (with all the holes still in them for want of a better description but either the tiles machine squared off or chipped look)2- honed and filled (with all the holes filled) but still left with a matt finish-retains the 'natural' stone look,. 3. Polished (honed and filled and then machine polished to a high gloss finish. Im guessing you are talking honed and filled? They will need sealing before fitting and after. White adhesives only, antibacterial grout and silicone (look for Microban)
Was looking for the non polished tiles as how are polished tiles to step on after a wet shower?wanted the kind of matt look and not be blinded once the lights are all in off the reflections
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