Chassis dipping and stripping
Discussion
My local shotblaster reckons they can only remove damaged and flakey powdercoating from my chassis and not the good stuff.
They suggest i find somewhere to get the chassis dipped to strip.
I have to rethink my options.
Do i find somewhere maybe over 100 miles away and transport the chassis about or can i find an alternative option?
Can i get the shotblasters to remove all the damaged powdercoated areas then POR15 the bare areas and topcoat the whole chassis?
Or do i drill a couple of hundred holes, get the outriggers replaced and then send away to get dipped then galvanized?
They suggest i find somewhere to get the chassis dipped to strip.
I have to rethink my options.
Do i find somewhere maybe over 100 miles away and transport the chassis about or can i find an alternative option?
Can i get the shotblasters to remove all the damaged powdercoated areas then POR15 the bare areas and topcoat the whole chassis?
Or do i drill a couple of hundred holes, get the outriggers replaced and then send away to get dipped then galvanized?
Update.
The stupid shotblasters thought it was plastic coated.
Now they say £200 to strip it.
Ive had a quote to strip and galvanize for £250+ vat so i will confirm with them this includes full stripping of the powdercoating and then get the people replacing my outriggers to start drilling holes.
The stupid shotblasters thought it was plastic coated.
Now they say £200 to strip it.
Ive had a quote to strip and galvanize for £250+ vat so i will confirm with them this includes full stripping of the powdercoating and then get the people replacing my outriggers to start drilling holes.
massive drip marks under it... horid jaged edges..Jackal83 said:
Will you run the risk of the chassis warping in galv????..
Yes.This has been done and proven before.
See in the Chimaera forum the post by Saml666.
edited to add limk... http://pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Lots of drilled 5mm holes and it will be fine
Edited by dbv8 on Monday 14th December 17:58
heightswitch said:
NO NO NO NO! DO NOT WHATEVER YOU DO HAVE YOUR CHASSIS GALVANIZED.
Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
What makes you say this? Plenty of galvanized chassis have been done...Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
heightswitch said:
NO NO NO NO! DO NOT WHATEVER YOU DO HAVE YOUR CHASSIS GALVANIZED.
Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
There's a steady stream of people posting the results of their hot dip chassis galvanizations. I'm sure there are numpties who can warp a chassis but there are also good companies that don't.Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
Also, warping is muct more of a problem with sheet steel that with fabricated tube structures like a chassis.
From the Pillar-Wedge website.....
'
The hot dip galvanizing process consists of 3 distinct phases
* Pre-Treatment
* Galvanizing
* Inspection
Pre-Treatment
Pre Treatment for galvanizing consists of 4 separate stages
* Inspection - Items are inspected to ensure they are safe & suitable to galvanize. This involves checking whether they are adequately vented. Surfaces are checked for signs of contamination with paint, grease, etc. as these will not be removed in the process and would cause the process to fail.
* Degreasing - Steel is immersed in a degreasing solution which removes light oil contamination.
* Pickling - Acid strips the steel surface back to clean base steel.
* Fluxing - A flux solution is applied to the steel to assist with the galvanizing reaction.
Galvanizing
Material is immersed in molten zinc at a temperature of around 450 degrees until the temperature of the work is the same as the Zinc. During this process the molten zinc reacts with the surface of the steel to form a series of zinc/iron alloys. These alloy layers protect steel from corrosion for 30-40 years and more.
As work is removed from the zinc, the zinc on its surface will begin to solidify, as this happens excess zinc is removed to ensure a smooth finish. Work is then usually transferred to a quench tank where it is cooled to allow handling.
Inspection
The galvanized steel is first visually inspected for its appearance and conformity to standard. Batches may then be non-destructively tested for coating thickness and uniformity.'
'
The hot dip galvanizing process consists of 3 distinct phases
* Pre-Treatment
* Galvanizing
* Inspection
Pre-Treatment
Pre Treatment for galvanizing consists of 4 separate stages
* Inspection - Items are inspected to ensure they are safe & suitable to galvanize. This involves checking whether they are adequately vented. Surfaces are checked for signs of contamination with paint, grease, etc. as these will not be removed in the process and would cause the process to fail.
* Degreasing - Steel is immersed in a degreasing solution which removes light oil contamination.
* Pickling - Acid strips the steel surface back to clean base steel.
* Fluxing - A flux solution is applied to the steel to assist with the galvanizing reaction.
Galvanizing
Material is immersed in molten zinc at a temperature of around 450 degrees until the temperature of the work is the same as the Zinc. During this process the molten zinc reacts with the surface of the steel to form a series of zinc/iron alloys. These alloy layers protect steel from corrosion for 30-40 years and more.
As work is removed from the zinc, the zinc on its surface will begin to solidify, as this happens excess zinc is removed to ensure a smooth finish. Work is then usually transferred to a quench tank where it is cooled to allow handling.
Inspection
The galvanized steel is first visually inspected for its appearance and conformity to standard. Batches may then be non-destructively tested for coating thickness and uniformity.'
bsdnazz said:
heightswitch said:
NO NO NO NO! DO NOT WHATEVER YOU DO HAVE YOUR CHASSIS GALVANIZED.
Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
There's a steady stream of people posting the results of their hot dip chassis galvanizations. I'm sure there are numpties who can warp a chassis but there are also good companies that don't.Numpties who galvanise railings will definitely 100% warp and twist your chassis and render it scrap.
Acid dipping OK
Light blasting OK
Aluminium hot metal spraying OK
powder coating and painting OK
NEVER GALVANIZE.
N.
Also, warping is muct more of a problem with sheet steel that with fabricated tube structures like a chassis.
N.
As an engineer I've been thinking about this process for a while now and do wonder how much the resultant chassis movement would be. Could you please take measurements before and after to let us know? (FWIW I doubt that the shape that it returns to will be much difference but I wouldn't take the risk and do it to either of my cars. The epoxy mastic paint system, amongst others, will give a very long life of protection to the chassis without the heat distortion worry.)
dbv8 said:
From the Pillar-Wedge website.....
'
The hot dip galvanizing process consists of 3 distinct phases
* Pre-Treatment
* Galvanizing
* Inspection
Pre-Treatment
Pre Treatment for galvanizing consists of 4 separate stages
* Inspection - Items are inspected to ensure they are safe & suitable to galvanize. This involves checking whether they are adequately vented. Surfaces are checked for signs of contamination with paint, grease, etc. as these will not be removed in the process and would cause the process to fail.
* Degreasing - Steel is immersed in a degreasing solution which removes light oil contamination.
* Pickling - Acid strips the steel surface back to clean base steel.
* Fluxing - A flux solution is applied to the steel to assist with the galvanizing reaction.
Galvanizing
Material is immersed in molten zinc at a temperature of around 450 degrees until the temperature of the work is the same as the Zinc. During this process the molten zinc reacts with the surface of the steel to form a series of zinc/iron alloys. These alloy layers protect steel from corrosion for 30-40 years and more.
As work is removed from the zinc, the zinc on its surface will begin to solidify, as this happens excess zinc is removed to ensure a smooth finish. Work is then usually transferred to a quench tank where it is cooled to allow handling.
Inspection
The galvanized steel is first visually inspected for its appearance and conformity to standard. Batches may then be non-destructively tested for coating thickness and uniformity.'
If Pillar Wedge get an order to galv 500T of structural steel to be done in a hurry, they'll land it on your chassis without even blinking.'
The hot dip galvanizing process consists of 3 distinct phases
* Pre-Treatment
* Galvanizing
* Inspection
Pre-Treatment
Pre Treatment for galvanizing consists of 4 separate stages
* Inspection - Items are inspected to ensure they are safe & suitable to galvanize. This involves checking whether they are adequately vented. Surfaces are checked for signs of contamination with paint, grease, etc. as these will not be removed in the process and would cause the process to fail.
* Degreasing - Steel is immersed in a degreasing solution which removes light oil contamination.
* Pickling - Acid strips the steel surface back to clean base steel.
* Fluxing - A flux solution is applied to the steel to assist with the galvanizing reaction.
Galvanizing
Material is immersed in molten zinc at a temperature of around 450 degrees until the temperature of the work is the same as the Zinc. During this process the molten zinc reacts with the surface of the steel to form a series of zinc/iron alloys. These alloy layers protect steel from corrosion for 30-40 years and more.
As work is removed from the zinc, the zinc on its surface will begin to solidify, as this happens excess zinc is removed to ensure a smooth finish. Work is then usually transferred to a quench tank where it is cooled to allow handling.
Inspection
The galvanized steel is first visually inspected for its appearance and conformity to standard. Batches may then be non-destructively tested for coating thickness and uniformity.'
I didn't mean it to come over as a horror story, just another of the perils of hot dip galvanising.
Pillar Wedge are a big outfit who will prioritise on weight, smaller galvanisers such as Roebuck Clark might take more care.
As for galvanising a chassis, I wouldn't, but there are people on here and elswhere who have, and they claim it to be a big success and theres no doubt if done correctly its a good protection.
Pillar Wedge are a big outfit who will prioritise on weight, smaller galvanisers such as Roebuck Clark might take more care.
As for galvanising a chassis, I wouldn't, but there are people on here and elswhere who have, and they claim it to be a big success and theres no doubt if done correctly its a good protection.
If Galving distorts a chassis then how come farm gates and a like that are galved don't seem to warp these are not crossed braced like a chassis.
I'm going to be getting my landrover chassis done soon. Its around £70 for 100kgs in stoke-on-trent or if you know a man in the pub then considerable less
I'm going to be getting my landrover chassis done soon. Its around £70 for 100kgs in stoke-on-trent or if you know a man in the pub then considerable less
penno said:
If Galving distorts a chassis then how come farm gates and a like that are galved don't seem to warp these are not crossed braced like a chassis.
I'm going to be getting my landrover chassis done soon. Its around £70 for 100kgs in stoke-on-trent or if you know a man in the pub then considerable less
I often find that fencing, railings and farm gates etc are made of solid section or ductile 5-6mm thick wall tube.I'm going to be getting my landrover chassis done soon. Its around £70 for 100kgs in stoke-on-trent or if you know a man in the pub then considerable less
Jon says it all above. There are some ( a very few)galvanisers who may take a lot of time, carefully drill and prep before dipping. They may dip carefully and evenly and correctly immerse the item very slowly for specified times prior to careful extraction, clearing excess etc etc.
A Land rover chassis is essentially quite a bit bigger and a bit heavier (not unlike a farm gate) than a thin wall tube TVR chassis. it also has lots of 1" holes all over its 2 main sections which allow the molten metal and hot gasses etc to dissipate evenly as the chassis is immersed
The reality with galvanizing companies is that lots of heavy builders type metal is done in a very heavy builder type way quickly to price and en masse. I would have it as a guess and I may be stereo typing Barrow here That "delicate" wouldn't be the usual type of galvanizing carried out in that locale
At the end of the day. Its your car, do what you like!
For a while It was a fad of TR6 restorers to galv their chassis, I watched a few get done. it was common place to watch 2 men manhandle the chassis in and 4 to take it away afterwards!!
As i said. it may be perfectly fine but why take the chance.
My chassis is 40 years old for the first 25 it only had a coat of chassis black. How long do you want them to last??
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