Protecting my chassis for as little £££ as possible
Discussion
Lots of elbow grease!
Seriously - i must have spent most of last winters evenings and weekends under the car wire brushing sanding etc, then rust treating, hammerite 2-3 coats then underseal and finally Dynax (type of waxoyl but better)sprayed on and around every thing i couldn't get to.
Will go over again this winter and touch up any chips in the paint and another blast of Dynax especially top of out riggers and inside trailing arms.
Seriously - i must have spent most of last winters evenings and weekends under the car wire brushing sanding etc, then rust treating, hammerite 2-3 coats then underseal and finally Dynax (type of waxoyl but better)sprayed on and around every thing i couldn't get to.
Will go over again this winter and touch up any chips in the paint and another blast of Dynax especially top of out riggers and inside trailing arms.
Edited by Wiz on Thursday 10th December 20:16
ACF50
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/
protects but doesnt look like you have dipped it all in used axle grease... about £12.00 a 400ml tin on ebay... great !
K
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/
protects but doesnt look like you have dipped it all in used axle grease... about £12.00 a 400ml tin on ebay... great !
K
HI GUYS JUST VISITING! I remember from my S3 whilst underneath it cleaning/wirebrush/painting etc that all of the rear of the chassis was perfect. Why you may ask/ Because the rear diff oil seal to the prop had for many months, probably longer, been spraying castrols finest everywhere. Now this may not look to pretty but it certainly preserved the rear chassis area. My father was a mechanic many years ago, and when a car was in for an oil change, the old engine oil was liberally applied(usually by the apprentice) on the underside of the car. I dont bother with the oil idea but i do put plenty of grease on top of the outriggers 
TVR653X said:
Ketvrin - That spray, how much will I need? Do I need to sand the chassis down to get rust off first, or just spray it all over?
despite various products claims about "killing" rust, if you have rust, you would be best advised to remove it and treat the metal below with whatever you end up choosing, so the answer is "yes" I'm afraid...I got a flyer this morning from the NE RO describing an offer from RT racing to do a body lift and treatment :
quote:
RT Racing which may be of interest to those who have concerns over their chassis getting crusty. Body lift and Wax-oil for £999 (+ VAT ie £1,148.85 if you get in before the VAT goes up…!)
unquote.
otherwise its a case of following the case studies in the Useful Links wiki from refurbs to full on bpdy removal and chassis treatment...
welcome to the real world of TVR ownership mate
the spray itself does go a long way and one tin would cover a complete and perfect chassis I would imagine.
K
Get the car up and power washed/steam cleaned underneath. then get it in the garage on the highest ramps/stands you have. You will bang your head a lot and get covered in rust and paint.
I found working in from the front doing a section at a time worked. Don't do to much as it gets boring quite quickly.
Cover the car body work as it will get covered in rust etc as well.
Cobination of scredrivers hack saw blades, emery paper and wire brush will shift most of the rust and stones that sit on top of the outrigger. I got a small mirror and had a look along the top tubes which seemed ok. No body lift so not 100%.
Treat all over with some rust converter, i used Bilt Hamber hydrate 80. Then Hammerite on the patches then a coat over everything i could get to. Gave the outriggers and trailing arms three coats.
Once that was dry covered all the exposed chassis with Bilt Hamber Dynax UB which brushes on quite thick and is supossed to be stone chip proof. Again an extra coat on the most exposed bits.
Then a go round all the non visible bits with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 spray. It has a long nozzle which mean't i could run along the top of the outriggers and let it run around and off. Same with the trailing arms sprayed it in untill it dripped out.
Main thing is preperation though, get rid of as much rust as possible because no matter how effective the finish is supposed to be it will come through again some day.
Must put some paper down on the garage floor next time, and get some rubber gloves
I found working in from the front doing a section at a time worked. Don't do to much as it gets boring quite quickly.
Cover the car body work as it will get covered in rust etc as well.
Cobination of scredrivers hack saw blades, emery paper and wire brush will shift most of the rust and stones that sit on top of the outrigger. I got a small mirror and had a look along the top tubes which seemed ok. No body lift so not 100%.
Treat all over with some rust converter, i used Bilt Hamber hydrate 80. Then Hammerite on the patches then a coat over everything i could get to. Gave the outriggers and trailing arms three coats.
Once that was dry covered all the exposed chassis with Bilt Hamber Dynax UB which brushes on quite thick and is supossed to be stone chip proof. Again an extra coat on the most exposed bits.
Then a go round all the non visible bits with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 spray. It has a long nozzle which mean't i could run along the top of the outriggers and let it run around and off. Same with the trailing arms sprayed it in untill it dripped out.
Main thing is preperation though, get rid of as much rust as possible because no matter how effective the finish is supposed to be it will come through again some day.
Must put some paper down on the garage floor next time, and get some rubber gloves
Edited by Wiz on Friday 11th December 18:27
heres a tip you might need at some stage... an ordinary bar of soap will soften and remove hammerite from hair, ears, eyebrows (and beards) and even works on brushes !!!!
it sounds unlikely but you just need to work it in well and then rinse off with clean water... this is particularly important if you have white hair and have been applying red hammerite all weekend. you get some curious looks unless you manage to wash it all off
its a sight cheaper and kinder to your scalp than Hammerite thinners !
buy a cap as well
K
it sounds unlikely but you just need to work it in well and then rinse off with clean water... this is particularly important if you have white hair and have been applying red hammerite all weekend. you get some curious looks unless you manage to wash it all off
its a sight cheaper and kinder to your scalp than Hammerite thinners !
buy a cap as well
K
ketvrin said:
heres a tip you might need at some stage... an ordinary bar of soap will soften and remove hammerite from hair, ears, eyebrows (and beards) and even works on brushes !!!!
it sounds unlikely but you just need to work it in well and then rinse off with clean water... this is particularly important if you have white hair and have been applying red hammerite all weekend. you get some curious looks unless you manage to wash it all off
its a sight cheaper and kinder to your scalp than Hammerite thinners !
buy a cap as well
K
white hair redpaint smeared everywhere, i can see a job opportunity for yourself peaking on the 25th of this month. From what i remember of your goodself kev,from S club 2008, you also had the figure for the job aswell. it sounds unlikely but you just need to work it in well and then rinse off with clean water... this is particularly important if you have white hair and have been applying red hammerite all weekend. you get some curious looks unless you manage to wash it all off
its a sight cheaper and kinder to your scalp than Hammerite thinners !
buy a cap as well
K
ketvrin said:
TVR653X said:
Ketvrin - That spray, how much will I need? Do I need to sand the chassis down to get rust off first, or just spray it all over?
despite various products claims about "killing" rust, if you have rust, you would be best advised to remove it and treat the metal below with whatever you end up choosing, so the answer is "yes" I'm afraid...I got a flyer this morning from the NE RO describing an offer from RT racing to do a body lift and treatment :
quote:
RT Racing which may be of interest to those who have concerns over their chassis getting crusty. Body lift and Wax-oil for £999 (+ VAT ie £1,148.85 if you get in before the VAT goes up…!)
unquote.
otherwise its a case of following the case studies in the Useful Links wiki from refurbs to full on bpdy removal and chassis treatment...
welcome to the real world of TVR ownership mate
the spray itself does go a long way and one tin would cover a complete and perfect chassis I would imagine.
K
Also, I've heard some bad stuff about RT Racing......any truth in the stories?
Jaye R said:
I used RT Racing in 2004 for fitting my S/S Exhaust, S/S fuel Tank, new shocks and got the chassis wax-oiled at the same time.
Never had any problems with any of the work they carried out - car still going strong.
Cheers
Jaye
Cool, that's fine then. I'll probably go there, or trackvroad.....just so I can gawp at that Tuscan the guy owns!Never had any problems with any of the work they carried out - car still going strong.
Cheers
Jaye
TVR653X said:
Jaye R said:
I used RT Racing in 2004 for fitting my S/S Exhaust, S/S fuel Tank, new shocks and got the chassis wax-oiled at the same time.
Never had any problems with any of the work they carried out - car still going strong.
Cheers
Jaye
Cool, that's fine then. I'll probably go there, or trackvroad.....just so I can gawp at that Tuscan the guy owns!Never had any problems with any of the work they carried out - car still going strong.
Cheers
Jaye
If you intend to keep the car for a long time, do it once and do it right. Doing it right won't be cheap. Estimates you get when trying to get the job done to a price will rarely be of any worth as the damage will not be know until the work has started and you're a bit of a captive audience by then..
If you're having the body off there will be many other tasks worthwhile doing, if you havent got the spare cash, it will drive you dispair not being able to do it or into debt to do it.
So, some questions you may want to consider....
Have you got the cash to spend at least two or three times what you are quoted so that you can do the other bits when the chance is there.
Do you understand what you're getting for you money?
Has it failed its MOT or will it last a few years more?
Would you not be better selling yours and buying one that has had the work done, or has been looked after and doesnt need the work???
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