Acoustic quilt
Discussion
Has anyone had experience of using this stuff?
I want to remove a ceiling between dining room and bedroom above to expose the joists. This is how it was originally, as I can see bits of old laths nailed to the underside of the floorboards.
To cut down on noise levels I was thinking of fitting some quilt then some thin battens and then plasterboard as normal. Is this how it's done?
Thanks
I want to remove a ceiling between dining room and bedroom above to expose the joists. This is how it was originally, as I can see bits of old laths nailed to the underside of the floorboards.
To cut down on noise levels I was thinking of fitting some quilt then some thin battens and then plasterboard as normal. Is this how it's done?
Thanks
Sound deadening quilt laid bewteen the joists will absorb airborne sound between the two rooms, but won't do much about impact sound from first floor, but as it's a bedroom this is probbaly not a concern. I've done this between our lounge and the children's bedrooms, and it does make a difference - both ways - over elsewhere in the house.
From your description (and I may be wrong, in which case apologies) it sounds like you plan to sandwich the quilt with the battens. Your ceiling won't work if you do. I used thin string, held in place with staples into the joists' bottom surface, to hold the quilt until the plasterboard was fitted. Make sure the quilt is a snug fit bewteen the joists - essential for it to work, and it may even stay in place long enough for you to get the plasterboard in place.
From your description (and I may be wrong, in which case apologies) it sounds like you plan to sandwich the quilt with the battens. Your ceiling won't work if you do. I used thin string, held in place with staples into the joists' bottom surface, to hold the quilt until the plasterboard was fitted. Make sure the quilt is a snug fit bewteen the joists - essential for it to work, and it may even stay in place long enough for you to get the plasterboard in place.
Use some RW3 Roackwool, at lease 75mm if possible. It comes in slabs and you need to cut it with a hand saw so it fits tight between the joists.
Speak to Peter at www.studiopeople.com as this is what he does all day long and can advice you on the best and most cost effective route!
Speak to Peter at www.studiopeople.com as this is what he does all day long and can advice you on the best and most cost effective route!
Stegel said:
From your description (and I may be wrong, in which case apologies) it sounds like you plan to sandwich the quilt with the battens. Your ceiling won't work if you do. I used thin string, held in place with staples into the joists' bottom surface, to hold the quilt until the plasterboard was fitted. Make sure the quilt is a snug fit bewteen the joists - essential for it to work, and it may even stay in place long enough for you to get the plasterboard in place.
Ah, thanks. I thought that may be the case.Twerlie, 75mm is far too deep, I'm afraid. Joists are not much more than 100mm!
thanks for the input though
We're in the process of doing this to my girlfriends flat. The solution we opted for was:
75mm Knauf RS45 slabs between the joists.
Resilient bars screwed to the joists - they are semi flexible metal bars which act as dampers for impact noise.
2 layers of knauff soundblock plasterboard screwed to the resilient bars.
The soubdblock makes a considerable difference, although it is dearer than standard PB.
The key to stopping impact noise is to create a seperation between your ceiliing and the floor above. If you have enough head height in the room(which we didn't), you can ase an MF(metal frame) ceiling, which hangs below your original ceilling on wire hangers designed to minimise sound transfer(speak to British Gypsum). The gap between is stuffed with accoustic wool.
Or even more extreme is to use a wall hung secondary ceilling, which is not connected to the ceilling above at all- it is hung on it's own joists. This creates a good seperation, but will cost 200-300mm of headroom.
75mm Knauf RS45 slabs between the joists.
Resilient bars screwed to the joists - they are semi flexible metal bars which act as dampers for impact noise.
2 layers of knauff soundblock plasterboard screwed to the resilient bars.
The soubdblock makes a considerable difference, although it is dearer than standard PB.
The key to stopping impact noise is to create a seperation between your ceiliing and the floor above. If you have enough head height in the room(which we didn't), you can ase an MF(metal frame) ceiling, which hangs below your original ceilling on wire hangers designed to minimise sound transfer(speak to British Gypsum). The gap between is stuffed with accoustic wool.
Or even more extreme is to use a wall hung secondary ceilling, which is not connected to the ceilling above at all- it is hung on it's own joists. This creates a good seperation, but will cost 200-300mm of headroom.
It's also worth speaking to these guys, specifically their technical advisers:
http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/contact_us.aspx
or
http://www.british-gypsum.com/contact_us.aspx
Most of the products that the sound insulation specialist websites sell will come from either of these two, so they are pretty clued up about whats available, and may get you a better price(or try a bog standard builders merchant once you know what you are after).
http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/contact_us.aspx
or
http://www.british-gypsum.com/contact_us.aspx
Most of the products that the sound insulation specialist websites sell will come from either of these two, so they are pretty clued up about whats available, and may get you a better price(or try a bog standard builders merchant once you know what you are after).
In the past I've found these people helpful
http://www.hush.uk.com/
As other have said theres two types of sound Airbourne and Impact.
The quilt between the joist will help with airbourne as will and soundbloc board from british gypsum etc.
with regards to impact sound hush flooring to some thin flooring systems which will help reduce this if it's an issue.
http://www.hush.uk.com/
As other have said theres two types of sound Airbourne and Impact.
The quilt between the joist will help with airbourne as will and soundbloc board from british gypsum etc.
with regards to impact sound hush flooring to some thin flooring systems which will help reduce this if it's an issue.
russ_a said:
Does anyone know the rough price for sound proofing a 3m x 2m wall?
Depends how you aim to do it, and walls are different from ceillings, but I think(I can't remember exactly) we paid:£16 per pack of RS45(75mm) - each pack is 6 slabs 600x1200mm
£6-7 per sheet of soundblock plasterboard 1200x2400
£25-30 per roll of Isover 25mm Accoustic wool (1200mm x 20m) - can't quite remember this.
Resilient bars are about 3 pound each and spaced at 600, 450 or 400 mm
For 6m sq, you'd need 2 packs of RS45, 1 roll accoustic wool, 3 sheets of pb. and about 6 resilient bars. Assuming your doing the work yourself, and have the tools, you could get all the raw materials for <£100.
russ_a said:
Does anyone know the rough price for sound proofing a 3m x 2m wall?
It's impossible to completely sound 'proof' a wall but depending on your budget you can get some good results for a few hundred quid.You'd need to do the floor and ceiling too other the sound will flank around the wall.
Try to separate the new wall(s) from the existing on to help prevent sound travel.
A few good products here: http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/index.htm
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