Replacing resistor pack on Elise S
Discussion
Hi all,
I've read up on the various info on this repair, and it seems it is either long but not too bad, or a nightmare, depending on which exact car you have. So, does anyone know how hard it is to change the pack on an 06 Elise S with a/c? And, while we're at it, how exactly do you drain/repressurise the a/c system? Is there a guide on the tinterweb anywhere?
Thanks for any help.
Cheers,
Nick
I've read up on the various info on this repair, and it seems it is either long but not too bad, or a nightmare, depending on which exact car you have. So, does anyone know how hard it is to change the pack on an 06 Elise S with a/c? And, while we're at it, how exactly do you drain/repressurise the a/c system? Is there a guide on the tinterweb anywhere?
Thanks for any help.
Cheers,
Nick
I thought the Elise S was released in 2007? Hi,
It's not easy to replace the resistor pack on a car with air con, I would use an independent dealer or specialist.
I recently had this and a few other jobs done at an independent dealer and was told it was a right pain to do.
I did a bit of research because I too was thinking of repairing myself but the air con part put me off.
This is the guide I found http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/diy-blower-mo... , there also some info on seloc in the techwiki.
If you are going to replace it yourself I would recommend using a mobile air con specialist to discharge / recharge your air con system.
It's not easy to replace the resistor pack on a car with air con, I would use an independent dealer or specialist.
I recently had this and a few other jobs done at an independent dealer and was told it was a right pain to do.
I did a bit of research because I too was thinking of repairing myself but the air con part put me off.
This is the guide I found http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/diy-blower-mo... , there also some info on seloc in the techwiki.
If you are going to replace it yourself I would recommend using a mobile air con specialist to discharge / recharge your air con system.
Well for me the local indie is nearer and more convenient.
But I would go on recommendations and somewhere you can build a good relationship with, weather that be a dealer or indie.
And you are right you can negotiate with servicing departments often getting a better deal and some goodwill thrown in too, all with a courtesy car.
But I would go on recommendations and somewhere you can build a good relationship with, weather that be a dealer or indie.
And you are right you can negotiate with servicing departments often getting a better deal and some goodwill thrown in too, all with a courtesy car.
kambites said:
Anyone care to comment on the truth of the rumour that you can replace the resistor pack on a non-aircon car without taking the clam off?
I'd like to meet anyone who can so they can show me how it's done! Started doing mine a few weeks back thinking I might be able to do it clam in situ, came to the conclusion quite quickly that it couldn't (or, at least, I've no idea how it could be!), I also had issues getting the clam off. Due to the weather, going on holiday, social stuff and work being a bit crazy plus the complications I've had I still haven't finished the job and with hindsight I think I would have taken it to a pro, though I guess I've 'bonded' with my 'Liz a bit....kambites said:
Anyone care to comment on the truth of the rumour that you can replace the resistor pack on a non-aircon car without taking the clam off?
You got no chance getting the heater box out with the clam on. They are tight to remove with the clam off.If anyone claims they can remove a late type heater box (resistor mounted underneath) with the clam in place and without butchering the car to bits then I'd love to see it.
The early S2 cars have a different type of resistor which was mounted on the top of the heater box and can easily be removed in situ.
Mine has the resistor under the fan blower and is fastened to it with two small self tappers. I haven't a clue how you'd be able to rotate the blower enough to remove the pack without first removing the heater box, and I can't see how that can be done without removing the clam because the central spline that seperates the two vented inspection covers gets in the way (all IMO of course).
OP - you've already said that you'll get your wallet out, with your added AC complication I'd say it's probably the best way to deal with it.
OP - you've already said that you'll get your wallet out, with your added AC complication I'd say it's probably the best way to deal with it.
Which screw/bolt are you refering to? When I tried to unscrew the 2 allen headed bolts that are found under the headlamp shrouds (one each side) I found that they just turned and turned without actually loosening off or unthreading. I ended up sawing through them where the clam and mounts meet as it was physically impossible to to get anything to grip the nuts underneath (because, ironically, the clam was in the way...), turned out that the nuts were held captive by what I could only describe as harded chewing gum, like what you used to find under school tables in years gone by! The resin/gum was too soft to grip the nuts properly, after the clam was eventually off I had to cut the nuts out of the resin with a Stanley knife and I'll be asking a engineering workmate of mine to make up a couple of metal plates with the new fixing nuts tacked to them to use instead of trying to resin the nuts back into situ. The way it was all put together by Lotus beggars belief, by I know that all will be forgiven when I *eventually* get her back on the road! 
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