How to remove stubborn bonnet bolts?
Discussion
Have you tried the usual stuff? Penetrating spray, impact to break the seal, freeze spray, mini blow torch (maybe not such a good idea around the fibreglass though), tighten slightly before loosening? If so then I guess you might have to try and drill them out, although that wouldn't be very easy without a flexible extention...!
450Nick said:
Have you tried the usual stuff? Penetrating spray, impact to break the seal, freeze spray, mini blow torch (maybe not such a good idea around the fibreglass though), tighten slightly before loosening? If so then I guess you might have to try and drill them out, although that wouldn't be very easy without a flexible extention...!
Lots of penetrating spray.The bolts started to move then locked up.
I wouldnt want to try the impact method as the threads are embedded in the fibreglass bodywork.
There is not enough access for drilling.
I wonder if i can get the threaded hinge out on 1 side and i could replace if i damage the thread
By impact, I mean only some sharp taps to the bolt head. Actually, I find a spring loaded centre punch works quite well on stubborn bolts. It shouldn't give enough force to worry the fibreglass, but the shock might help free the buggers!
If not it might come to cutting it all out and starting again?? To be honest though, I've been meaning to do exactly this for quite some time now. The standard method of fixing the bonnet is rubbish! some sort of hook and bonnet pin system like I have on my Tuscan would be much better...
If not it might come to cutting it all out and starting again?? To be honest though, I've been meaning to do exactly this for quite some time now. The standard method of fixing the bonnet is rubbish! some sort of hook and bonnet pin system like I have on my Tuscan would be much better...
I know what you mean.
The naff hinge only allows the bonnet to raise so far before fouling and possibly damageing the paintwork.
A new bracket with 2 hinge points could be designed to allow the bonnet to lift as its raised (if you get me?) allowing the bonnet to raise to near vertical if wished.
Quick release pins would be very useful too.
The naff hinge only allows the bonnet to raise so far before fouling and possibly damageing the paintwork.
A new bracket with 2 hinge points could be designed to allow the bonnet to lift as its raised (if you get me?) allowing the bonnet to raise to near vertical if wished.
Quick release pins would be very useful too.
Ah yes, that would be a nice solution, perhaps a little complicated to make though? My idea was to make two stretched hooks pointing skyward from a block of aluminium and bolt them to the fibreglass up front. I'd then put in a long piece of round bar running along the front (through the raised fibreglass box), all glassed into place which would enable the bonnet to slide into the hooks from a fairly flat position. This would then be held in place with two bonnet pins at the very back corners. I found some very attractive small lockable polished ones which look like the ones on the Sag. I would then remove the bonnet release cable and mechanism and just use these two locking pins to hold the back down and holding the front tighly in the hooks. A bit like a neater version of how my Tuscan bonnet is held on.
It would then be really easy to just remove the bonnet, whilst (if designed right) still enabling the bonnet to be lifted and propped up as normal for quick checks and fluid top ups...
One day I'll get around to actually doing it!
It would then be really easy to just remove the bonnet, whilst (if designed right) still enabling the bonnet to be lifted and propped up as normal for quick checks and fluid top ups...
One day I'll get around to actually doing it!
Cut the spherical bearing, that is easier to replace than the threaded bar. The threaded bar is tack welded into the bracket which is then bonded into bonnet - yet YMMV depending on body style although the bearings are common & an easy component to replace..
If the bolts are stiff you are likely to break out the captive nuts, at least with the bonnet off you should be able to get grips on the capheads as well as a key and put plenty of torque on them. I'd still try proper penetrating spray oil (WD40 :spit
, kettles of boiling water, tapping with a punch to try and avoid damaging the bonded stuff?
If the bolts are stiff you are likely to break out the captive nuts, at least with the bonnet off you should be able to get grips on the capheads as well as a key and put plenty of torque on them. I'd still try proper penetrating spray oil (WD40 :spit
, kettles of boiling water, tapping with a punch to try and avoid damaging the bonded stuff?dbv8 said:
For the last couple of weeks ive mostly used Dr Dolittle.
Ie not got much done
What exactly is it you're going to be doing with the car? I remember meeting you at the TVR event at York dragway earlier this year, and that your car owned just about everything it raced. Infact, that day is partly what persuaded my dad a TVR was a very good idea....Ie not got much done
If these are Allen head bolts I've had success in the past with hammering a slightly larger Tor-X/spline type bit into the bolt head and then using an air-impact wrench to get them undone, where this hasn't worked I had to weld a short hex head bolt into the rounded hole but that might not be feasible if its close to the body.
Mags
Mags
TVR653X said:
dbv8 said:
For the last couple of weeks ive mostly used Dr Dolittle.
Ie not got much done
What exactly is it you're going to be doing with the car? I remember meeting you at the TVR event at York dragway earlier this year, and that your car owned just about everything it raced. Infact, that day is partly what persuaded my dad a TVR was a very good idea....Ie not got much done
In short...
I damaged a piston through operator error of my nitrous system and stripped the engine for a rebuild for next year.
While i was stripping the engine out i knew the outriggers needed attention so took the opportunity to do a full body off refurb.
Im hoping to be back at the track next Easter with a fresh strong engine that can take lots of nitrous abuse, and a completely refurbished chassis with Nitron suspension and uprated driveshafts etc etc and running on slicks hope to be running very low 11's.
See you there i hope
dbv8 said:
TVR653X said:
dbv8 said:
For the last couple of weeks ive mostly used Dr Dolittle.
Ie not got much done
What exactly is it you're going to be doing with the car? I remember meeting you at the TVR event at York dragway earlier this year, and that your car owned just about everything it raced. Infact, that day is partly what persuaded my dad a TVR was a very good idea....Ie not got much done
In short...
I damaged a piston through operator error of my nitrous system and stripped the engine for a rebuild for next year.
While i was stripping the engine out i knew the outriggers needed attention so took the opportunity to do a full body off refurb.
Im hoping to be back at the track next Easter with a fresh strong engine that can take lots of nitrous abuse, and a completely refurbished chassis with Nitron suspension and uprated driveshafts etc etc and running on slicks hope to be running very low 11's.
See you there i hope
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