Stiffer Springs?

[MrPhotographer]

Does anyone know what rating the springs are that come with the Gaz Gold pro shocks? Also what effect would it have on the handling of the car to fit stiffer springs rather than increasing the stiffness on the shocks?

Thanks
T.

[slideways]

standard are 325 rear 400 front,
i have upgraded to pro's with 350rear 450 front, its early days but it does feel better and the pro's only have about 22 click ive set mine at 11 front 12 rear for starters

[Chimjunkie]

MrPhotographer said:

Also what effect would it have on the handling of the car to fit stiffer springs rather than increasing the stiffness on the shocks?

Thanks
T.

More resistance to roll, brake dive and acceleration lift. 400F/325R is good for the road, but too soft for track IMO. I know you are keen to start tracking so i would go for 475f/400r and see what you think. Springs are 25 quid each and easy to change. So simple to play about until you find what you are looking for. The mistake i made when i first had adjustable dampers was to set them too firm. The car then skips about and does not conform to the road. Although the car does feel 'stiffer'. Best to have firmer springs and softer shocks for the roads in this region! IMHO

[Barreti]

I'm pretty sure i have my car set to the correct ride height, and it looked about the norm at the Griff Growl - lots lower, some higher - but I still have issues with the car bottoming out (exhaust grinding) on country lanes.

I've raised the car a bit once, and upped the clicks of the rear shocks.

The ride is quite nice so I don't want to compromise that now, so does it mean I either have to raise the rear again or change the springs?
From memory, they are standard springs 325/375

[spend]

If its in a straight line you can discount ARB differences, otherwise the roll bar should effectively increment spring rates?

Also not often considered but the arc of the wishbone changes the angle of the damper (and spring) so the loading is not linear over suspension travel. It seems to work to your advantage in bump, but at the start of rebound from full droop there appear to be rather 'woolly' factors that encourage folks to stiffen the damping. I'm firmly in the camp of setting the car to suit the rest of the range and accepting that extended droop situation as a weak area.

[KarlR]

Barreti said:

I'm pretty sure i have my car set to the correct ride height, and it looked about the norm at the Griff Growl - lots lower, some higher - but I still have issues with the car bottoming out (exhaust grinding) on country lanes.

I've raised the car a bit once, and upped the clicks of the rear shocks.

The ride is quite nice so I don't want to compromise that now, so does it mean I either have to raise the rear again or change the springs?
From memory, they are standard springs 325/375

After changing from the standard Bilsteins, I found this also. Quick country road driving is no longer possible due to grounding out. Increasing the damping of the springs helps but I found spoils the ride elsewhere. Stiffer Springs I think..

[spitfire4v8]

What dampers are the people running who are having grounding out problems?

[dvs_dave]

Raise the spring platforms 1/4 inch and then try it. Stiffening the dampers a couple of notches is worth a go as you may be running more weight over the back axle than is ideal for that damper setting.

Damping is all about mass control so if the mass changes, the damping needs to also to maintain the same performance.

[Barreti]

spitfire4v8 said:

What dampers are the people running who are having grounding out problems?

Gaz Nickel over here

And its a braver man than me that calls my mrs 'mass'