bushing, baljoints and droplinks.. how to check?
Discussion
I have knocking clunking noise coming from the driver side of my BMW 2002 E39. It happens a low speeds and when going over bumps and stuff. Its getting a little louder then it was before. I was thinking it was a good idea to check the suspension parts for wear over the weekend.
I want to check the front ball joints, bushings and any droplinks for wear… So with the car jacked up and everything in view how do I check these components for wear or play?
Does anyone have a link to a site that may cover this?
I want to check the front ball joints, bushings and any droplinks for wear… So with the car jacked up and everything in view how do I check these components for wear or play?
Does anyone have a link to a site that may cover this?
Save your time. If you have to ask you're better letting a garage have a look.
That's not me being rude btw, but unless they really are shagged, suspension components show virtually no sign of play to the naked eye/hand, especially the untrained one. If you are expecting something to be blatently obvious when you look I suspect you will be disappointed.
That's not me being rude btw, but unless they really are shagged, suspension components show virtually no sign of play to the naked eye/hand, especially the untrained one. If you are expecting something to be blatently obvious when you look I suspect you will be disappointed.
Sorry mate.. that’s a crap answer. Why bother to respond? The whole point of this section is to get helpful advice.
I am fairly mechanically handy cars bikes and most stuff. I have worked on all my cars and bikes. All I am asking for is point in the right direction. Mechanics isn't flipping rocket science. Its not a F1 car, just a E39. Unless I need specialised tools and a lift and a flex capacitor...
Does anyone have a tip or two for me?
I am fairly mechanically handy cars bikes and most stuff. I have worked on all my cars and bikes. All I am asking for is point in the right direction. Mechanics isn't flipping rocket science. Its not a F1 car, just a E39. Unless I need specialised tools and a lift and a flex capacitor...
Does anyone have a tip or two for me?
As above, you need to use something pretty long to lever things apart/stress them . . . the further apart they go the more worn they are, basically, but you need to know how much they are supposed to move in the first place as the whole point of a bush/track rod end etc is that they do move slightly.
Sometimes you can see a bush has broken but you'd have more than a slight knocking by the time it's that bad.
Best option is to take it to a specialist garage as even some general purpose garages won't find anything wrong with just a slight knock. This is what I do . . . even though I know roughly what to look for it would take me an hour or so at least to look for what they can tell me in 10 mins and if a suspension part needs changing it's much easier for a properly equipped garage to do it . . . suspension at home diy is not funny or even vaugly amusing, pita and always difficult.
Sometimes you can see a bush has broken but you'd have more than a slight knocking by the time it's that bad.
Best option is to take it to a specialist garage as even some general purpose garages won't find anything wrong with just a slight knock. This is what I do . . . even though I know roughly what to look for it would take me an hour or so at least to look for what they can tell me in 10 mins and if a suspension part needs changing it's much easier for a properly equipped garage to do it . . . suspension at home diy is not funny or even vaugly amusing, pita and always difficult.
Most likely to be the anti roll bar drop link, common problem on these.
The trouble is, you need to check them by moving the suspension up and down with the car on its wheels (on a platform lift).
They're as cheap as chips from a motor factor, so it may be easier just to replace it (or both of them).
The trouble is, you need to check them by moving the suspension up and down with the car on its wheels (on a platform lift).
They're as cheap as chips from a motor factor, so it may be easier just to replace it (or both of them).
Madmotor said:
Take a lever bar and move the connections as much as can. No more than 1.8mm movement out. Then take large waterpump pliers and squees them in and relax them out. Car musnt be jacked up but tyres touchin the ground. Its easiest on a lift that drives onto.
He’s probably sorted it after 11 years. Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff