Brake advice please
Discussion
My 2001 C5 appears to have worn the brake pads down as I'm getting a 'grunch' noise when the brakes are fully applied and minor scratching on the front LH disc. Reading my handbook I'm assuming the warning systems should have advised me before they got too bad but nothing. Should I have got any warnings? Any recommendations as to replacement pads and who I could get to do the job. I'm near Leicester so any specialist within an hour or so, or is it a job any garage can do. (Bearing in mind no more GM dealers or warranty - thats another thread on here and no response from GM when I emailed them)
Mark
Mark
Dont really know about C5's but recalled this thread with te51cle.
http://corvettechat.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=65499&f=100&h=0
http://corvettechat.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=65499&f=100&h=0
The grinding is Chevy's very sophisticated brake wear indicator - a steel tang bent over the pad material for about a quarter of an inch. When it gets to that level, the steel tang grates onto the disc surface - ooh, scary sophistication.
Green Stuff pads. I tried to get them for my Camaro LS1 but was told by the UK supplier that they don't import them because all imported pads have to pass a stringent test - rather like a homologation or summat so it's too expensive. However, if you save your old backplates, they can affix a Green Stuff pad to it. Stupid? Yes...very.
So best to import some Hawk high performance pads.
I use www.4redlinemotorsports.com/acatalog/Chevy_Corvette_97+_Brake_Upgrades.html who very obligingly send a low value invoice to cut down the old import duty and VAT. So you may as well but a set of Powerslot rotors, like I did, while you're at it, as they're damned good value and the Chevy discs don't last more than 5 years and often warp. Oh and they do the rear sets as well, it's just not on the website - email them first.
I tried a lot of suppliers but these were the best overall price by far including the shipping costs.
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Sunday 28th December 22:10
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Sunday 28th December 22:12
Green Stuff pads. I tried to get them for my Camaro LS1 but was told by the UK supplier that they don't import them because all imported pads have to pass a stringent test - rather like a homologation or summat so it's too expensive. However, if you save your old backplates, they can affix a Green Stuff pad to it. Stupid? Yes...very.
So best to import some Hawk high performance pads.
I use www.4redlinemotorsports.com/acatalog/Chevy_Corvette_97+_Brake_Upgrades.html who very obligingly send a low value invoice to cut down the old import duty and VAT. So you may as well but a set of Powerslot rotors, like I did, while you're at it, as they're damned good value and the Chevy discs don't last more than 5 years and often warp. Oh and they do the rear sets as well, it's just not on the website - email them first.
I tried a lot of suppliers but these were the best overall price by far including the shipping costs.
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Sunday 28th December 22:10
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Sunday 28th December 22:12
If its a high pitched squeal when you apply the brake then it's the sophisticated indicator alright ! Mind you, it works as I replaced mine almost immediately after I heard the noise.
It's an easy job that you or any halfway competent garage can do. The only tool you may not have is a large C-clamp which is needed to force the piston back into the caliper body.
I got my EBC pads from Sejoc in Gravesend. I've had no problems with the new pads, the feel is much better than stock and there is much less dust on the wheels too. Delivery times are dependant on supply from the 'states - if they've got them you can have 'em the next day, if they haven't then you could end up waiting a month. There's plenty of choice of aftermarket pads in the US, take your pick !
If you need them immediately then Crownhill of Milton Keynes can probably supply and fit standard pads and discs for you - they did my fronts a few months ago and I did the rears separately a few weeks later. I'm sure they're still doing standard maintenance stuff like this. It's only warranty work that the GM dealer network are a bit iffy about at the moment.
It's an easy job that you or any halfway competent garage can do. The only tool you may not have is a large C-clamp which is needed to force the piston back into the caliper body.
I got my EBC pads from Sejoc in Gravesend. I've had no problems with the new pads, the feel is much better than stock and there is much less dust on the wheels too. Delivery times are dependant on supply from the 'states - if they've got them you can have 'em the next day, if they haven't then you could end up waiting a month. There's plenty of choice of aftermarket pads in the US, take your pick !
If you need them immediately then Crownhill of Milton Keynes can probably supply and fit standard pads and discs for you - they did my fronts a few months ago and I did the rears separately a few weeks later. I'm sure they're still doing standard maintenance stuff like this. It's only warranty work that the GM dealer network are a bit iffy about at the moment.
te51cle said:
Could be no pad at all then ! I found that I had less pad left on the driver's side but the squeal came from the "indicator" on the passenger's side !
Is indicator only on passenger side??
It is the drivers side thats gone...new pads then, hopefully discs OK.
Is it an expensive job?
Mark
The little spring steel tangs should be on the trailing edge of each inboard pad in the pair. But as they're only little bent bits of metal they can easily be misaligned which I'm sure is why I didn't get a warning until very late in the pad's life.
A pair of OE front discs cost me £160 fitted which I thought was reasonable. I supplied the pads which cost me another £70 or so.
A pair of OE front discs cost me £160 fitted which I thought was reasonable. I supplied the pads which cost me another £70 or so.
The full set of four Powerslot discs and front/rear sets of Hawk performance pads cost £504.42 to my door.
The wear indicators are on all four pads. The back ones last forever though. The sound you describe will be the flat tang scraping on the disc surface.
The fitting of the rotors is simple - just unbolt and support the caliper, tap the old rotor off, push the new one on, rebolt the caliper. Changing pads is simple too.
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Monday 29th December 20:30
The wear indicators are on all four pads. The back ones last forever though. The sound you describe will be the flat tang scraping on the disc surface.
The fitting of the rotors is simple - just unbolt and support the caliper, tap the old rotor off, push the new one on, rebolt the caliper. Changing pads is simple too.
>> Edited by LuS1fer on Monday 29th December 20:30
I've had my C5 for coming up to five years and have had all the service work done by Crownhill at Milton Keynes. 01 908 569999
Without doubt they charge "main dealer" prices but do offer the advantage of having a number of mechanics/technicians who are fully familiar with the C5. (Their Chevy receptionist used to be called Pam but I think she left before Xmas. Another name there is Wayne)
Good luck! Can I ask that in these days when GM are doing their best to abandon the UK you share your experiences in getting the brakes sorted - whether good or bad!
Steve
Without doubt they charge "main dealer" prices but do offer the advantage of having a number of mechanics/technicians who are fully familiar with the C5. (Their Chevy receptionist used to be called Pam but I think she left before Xmas. Another name there is Wayne)
Good luck! Can I ask that in these days when GM are doing their best to abandon the UK you share your experiences in getting the brakes sorted - whether good or bad!
Steve
As Crownhill are the nearest to me I have used them before for a warranty job.
I have spoken to them today. Pam has gone; trolley dolly for easyJet I think. Wayne sells 'em (He is Turboman on here). John is one of the service managers and is very helpful. He explained the current warranty issues with GM in UK, hopefully will be resolved.
If I can't get the brakes sorted soon then I'll be off to them on 8th Jan, the earliest I could get in.
Mark
I have spoken to them today. Pam has gone; trolley dolly for easyJet I think. Wayne sells 'em (He is Turboman on here). John is one of the service managers and is very helpful. He explained the current warranty issues with GM in UK, hopefully will be resolved.
If I can't get the brakes sorted soon then I'll be off to them on 8th Jan, the earliest I could get in.
Mark
turboman said:
Now Pam has gone, you could always speak with Kelly on the service reception, just tell her you were told to ask for her, (makes her feel important).
Cheers Wayne. I found John more helpful - I was in on Pams last week with a Service Column Lock fault with Y reg pewter car, remember?
Mark
I won't presume to comment on the pads, since it is obvious you have a lot of good advice from people "over there" who have actuall used locally available pads.
But I would like to add something that has not been commented on, perhaps because all of you already know the trick. I actually learned this trick from Jaguar about 20 years ago when I had my first one. Because modern rotors are minimal thickness for weight, and because you want the maximum mass of metal present for heat sinking reasons, it is best not resurface the rotor when the pads are replaced. The trick is to replace the pads and carefully drive a 300 mile or so break-in period to seat the new pads on the rotors. This maintains the performance closest to what the car had when new. It makes a huge difference in the rotors ability to resist warping due to overheating because of too little metal left.
I have done this for many years with everything from Jags to Corvettes, to BMW to my old Shelby, and even a Ford Explorer. Always worked well, and best of all, in all that time, have never had warped rotors!
Obviously, this may be common in the UK, but in the US you have to be very specific, or the brake shop will always resurface the rotors. It is automatic. Also obviously, this also only works if the rotor is only worn (no matter how much, they will almost never "wear out"), and not damaged somehow.
Anyway, thought I would bring it up. If it is already normal practice, excuse me.
Regards,
Art in Baton Rouge, LA USA
But I would like to add something that has not been commented on, perhaps because all of you already know the trick. I actually learned this trick from Jaguar about 20 years ago when I had my first one. Because modern rotors are minimal thickness for weight, and because you want the maximum mass of metal present for heat sinking reasons, it is best not resurface the rotor when the pads are replaced. The trick is to replace the pads and carefully drive a 300 mile or so break-in period to seat the new pads on the rotors. This maintains the performance closest to what the car had when new. It makes a huge difference in the rotors ability to resist warping due to overheating because of too little metal left.
I have done this for many years with everything from Jags to Corvettes, to BMW to my old Shelby, and even a Ford Explorer. Always worked well, and best of all, in all that time, have never had warped rotors!
Obviously, this may be common in the UK, but in the US you have to be very specific, or the brake shop will always resurface the rotors. It is automatic. Also obviously, this also only works if the rotor is only worn (no matter how much, they will almost never "wear out"), and not damaged somehow.
Anyway, thought I would bring it up. If it is already normal practice, excuse me.
Regards,
Art in Baton Rouge, LA USA
Yep, almost every time they replace the pads they replace the discs at the same time in the UK. Though the members of an American car club, with older vehicles, I belong to were surprised to learn this. I think softer metal is used to make the discs nowadays so that the braking is better but they don't last as long.
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