Bonnet Release Cable
Discussion
I have been through the previous posts but can't get any info of what parts to order.
My cable has snapped and I think the cable outer on the passenger side needs replacing along with the inner.
I have taken off the passenger side latch, just need to do the drivers side.
My to do list before MOT is now.
1. Bonnet cable
2. Fit seats (I have some of the old seat bolts, anyone know what size they are so I can get the correct nuts?)
3. Interior trim panels
4. Rear plastic bumper refit
5. Connect speedo
6. Handbrake light switch (anyone know what the part is and is it a MOT fail without?)
So this is the last big job!! Then its MOT time!!!!!!!!
My cable has snapped and I think the cable outer on the passenger side needs replacing along with the inner.
I have taken off the passenger side latch, just need to do the drivers side.
My to do list before MOT is now.
1. Bonnet cable
2. Fit seats (I have some of the old seat bolts, anyone know what size they are so I can get the correct nuts?)
3. Interior trim panels
4. Rear plastic bumper refit
5. Connect speedo
6. Handbrake light switch (anyone know what the part is and is it a MOT fail without?)
So this is the last big job!! Then its MOT time!!!!!!!!
Edited by mikea4tdi on Wednesday 5th August 13:20
Hi Mike
1. Cant help
2. Fit seats The nuts and bolts are M8 (13mm spanner) wouldnt consider using the old bolts best to replace possibly with stainless steel
3. Cant help
4. Rear plastic bumper refit I did a temp fix by using double sided numberplate fixing tabs but should be with a metal strip inside the bumper with self tappers from inside the boot
5. Cant help
6. Cant help
1. Cant help
2. Fit seats The nuts and bolts are M8 (13mm spanner) wouldnt consider using the old bolts best to replace possibly with stainless steel
3. Cant help
4. Rear plastic bumper refit I did a temp fix by using double sided numberplate fixing tabs but should be with a metal strip inside the bumper with self tappers from inside the boot
5. Cant help
6. Cant help
Thanks, M8's I can do!
found these universal bowden cables, 2m in length from hein gericke
http://www.hein-gericke.de/0/uk_bk/
not sure if they could be made to fit?
found these universal bowden cables, 2m in length from hein gericke
http://www.hein-gericke.de/0/uk_bk/
not sure if they could be made to fit?
Ok I've just orded this lot from SJS cycles, based on a 3.5m long tandem brake cable and some solderless end nipples. I'm hoping to reuse the adjusters on the old cable outers or not have the adjustment and just pull the cable through until its tight an lock off with the solderless nipples (ooeeerrr). Hopefully should do the trick, I bet there was a simpler option that will now appear!
Order Summary
Qty Description Price Total
2 Shimano 5 mm SLR Brake Outer - Black - Per Metre
Product Code: 11345
£2.75 £5.50
1 Stepped Chrome Ferrules 3.7 mm Insert for 5 mm Gear Outer - Pack Of 4
Product Code: 5267
£0.99 £0.99
4 Chrome Ferrule for 5 mm Brake or Gear Outer Cable - Each
Product Code: 5270
£0.12 £0.48
1 Thorn Stainless Steel 1.6 mm Pear Nipple Tandem Brake Cable Wire - 3.5metres Long
Product Code: 3671
£3.99 £3.99
2 Clarks Solderless Pear Nipple CX-72 - Each
Product Code: 8145
£0.99 £1.98
4 Shimano Anti Fray End for Inner Cable - Each
Product Code: 5271
£0.20 £0.80
Sub Total: £13.74
Delivery: £2.50
VAT Included £2.12
Grand Total £16.24
I'll let you know if it works!
Order Summary
Qty Description Price Total
2 Shimano 5 mm SLR Brake Outer - Black - Per Metre
Product Code: 11345
£2.75 £5.50
1 Stepped Chrome Ferrules 3.7 mm Insert for 5 mm Gear Outer - Pack Of 4
Product Code: 5267
£0.99 £0.99
4 Chrome Ferrule for 5 mm Brake or Gear Outer Cable - Each
Product Code: 5270
£0.12 £0.48
1 Thorn Stainless Steel 1.6 mm Pear Nipple Tandem Brake Cable Wire - 3.5metres Long
Product Code: 3671
£3.99 £3.99
2 Clarks Solderless Pear Nipple CX-72 - Each
Product Code: 8145
£0.99 £1.98
4 Shimano Anti Fray End for Inner Cable - Each
Product Code: 5271
£0.20 £0.80
Sub Total: £13.74
Delivery: £2.50
VAT Included £2.12
Grand Total £16.24
I'll let you know if it works!
Mike
I've just (foolishly) adjusted my bonnet hinges to raise the front. Now the bonnet won't open as it appears to be jammed in the catches.
Tried putting the bonnet hinges back where they were with no joy.
Quick question, would undoing the catches let me lift up the bonnet so that I can start again?
I've just (foolishly) adjusted my bonnet hinges to raise the front. Now the bonnet won't open as it appears to be jammed in the catches.
Tried putting the bonnet hinges back where they were with no joy.
Quick question, would undoing the catches let me lift up the bonnet so that I can start again?
Bob
Get some one to (gently) wiggled/bounce the bonnet while you put some tension on the release cable.
BTW I dont think raising the bonnet will help opening issues, I carry two wooden blocks about 2" high, 4" wide and 9" long with an agled end to put front wheels on to get good bonnet clearance
Get some one to (gently) wiggled/bounce the bonnet while you put some tension on the release cable.
BTW I dont think raising the bonnet will help opening issues, I carry two wooden blocks about 2" high, 4" wide and 9" long with an agled end to put front wheels on to get good bonnet clearance
try loosening them first, the bonnet might undo, if not take the bolts out, its not hard to do, youll then have enough slack in the cable to lift it up enough to release the catches. not sure the best way to reset them, try closing bonnet with the catches loose, one closed tighten the bolts.
Norman, nice blocks. I can generally open my bonnet without grounding the front. My problem was that the bonnet was catching the front edge of the wing sections, taking off the paint. Hence the need to raise the front edge of the bonnet.
I also love those S1 slots of yours. When I'm not spending on brakes, speedos, etc I'm going to get a set.
Got my Daughter to pull the release while I gently (yeah right) pulled the bonnet about to release it. Then a mere 2 hours of adjustment later it was fixed.
Mike, thanks for the help. I found that putting masking tape over the catch areas and letting the bonnet down onto them gently gave a good witness mark as a guide to where to move the adjustment to. I then got the bonnet aligned with the front hinge bolt set up to give a good side to side, fore and aft and up and down alignment. Final latch pin adjustment was done by moving the latch pins in their brackets.
The alignments and release action are better than they've ever been. If anyone near Solihull needs to go through this then give me a shout and I'll come over and help. Might be able to save them a few hours work?
I also love those S1 slots of yours. When I'm not spending on brakes, speedos, etc I'm going to get a set.
Got my Daughter to pull the release while I gently (yeah right) pulled the bonnet about to release it. Then a mere 2 hours of adjustment later it was fixed.
Mike, thanks for the help. I found that putting masking tape over the catch areas and letting the bonnet down onto them gently gave a good witness mark as a guide to where to move the adjustment to. I then got the bonnet aligned with the front hinge bolt set up to give a good side to side, fore and aft and up and down alignment. Final latch pin adjustment was done by moving the latch pins in their brackets.
The alignments and release action are better than they've ever been. If anyone near Solihull needs to go through this then give me a shout and I'll come over and help. Might be able to save them a few hours work?
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