Stud partition wall
Discussion
Well, if anyone has read my other "live" thread on building a soil retaining wall http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a... i am sure you can workout who is behind these current spurts of DIY requests.
Okay, we have a bedroom that is massive. We want to split straight down the middle (luckily it already has two windows which will fall exactly in the centre of each of the new rooms the partition will make) and have a door at one end. I plan to do this myself.
Is it as difficult as it looks? Im fairly good with my hands and confident i can do all of it except maybe the plastering/skimming. Should i use 4" x 2" or 3" x 2" for my wall?
Also, anything i should consider..
Thanks, Matt.
Okay, we have a bedroom that is massive. We want to split straight down the middle (luckily it already has two windows which will fall exactly in the centre of each of the new rooms the partition will make) and have a door at one end. I plan to do this myself.
Is it as difficult as it looks? Im fairly good with my hands and confident i can do all of it except maybe the plastering/skimming. Should i use 4" x 2" or 3" x 2" for my wall?
Also, anything i should consider..
Thanks, Matt.
Do I understand correctly, that you will have to go through one of the rooms to get to the other?
If so, you should consider Building Regulations, as you're creating what's known as an 'inner room' situation. Unless the window meets certain minimum criteria to serve as an escape window, you're in breach of building regulations. This might not bother you, but a prospective purchaser's surveyor might pick it up if you come to sell, and conceivably it could invalidate your house insurance if (God forbid) there was ever a serious fire.
On a more practical level, consider the span of the floor joists. If they're spanning parallel to the proposed stud wall, you really need to at learst try to sit the soleplate of the wall directly over a joist. In the old days (back when houses actally had proper joists and proper stud walls) we'd always fit a doubled joist under the stud wall position to prevent flexing of the floor.
If so, you should consider Building Regulations, as you're creating what's known as an 'inner room' situation. Unless the window meets certain minimum criteria to serve as an escape window, you're in breach of building regulations. This might not bother you, but a prospective purchaser's surveyor might pick it up if you come to sell, and conceivably it could invalidate your house insurance if (God forbid) there was ever a serious fire.
On a more practical level, consider the span of the floor joists. If they're spanning parallel to the proposed stud wall, you really need to at learst try to sit the soleplate of the wall directly over a joist. In the old days (back when houses actally had proper joists and proper stud walls) we'd always fit a doubled joist under the stud wall position to prevent flexing of the floor.
Basically i want to go from this:
To this:
The extra space on the bottom right will add to the landing area at the top of our stairs. Please ignore the proportions they are all wrong but essentially the rooms will be equal in width...just one would be maybe 2ft shorter.
Floor joists travel the opposite way to the wall.
To this:
The extra space on the bottom right will add to the landing area at the top of our stairs. Please ignore the proportions they are all wrong but essentially the rooms will be equal in width...just one would be maybe 2ft shorter.
Floor joists travel the opposite way to the wall.
Four by twos are the norm (in the States), you could use three by twos but if you intend running electric plugs/switches then the boxes may not fit easily.
Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
Edited by jeff m on Wednesday 1st July 22:15
jeff m said:
Four by twos are the norm (in the States), you could use three by twos but if you intend running electric plugs/switches then the boxes may not fit easily.
Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
I would use 89mm x 38mm cls, with 12.5mm pb both sides. studs filled with rockwool.Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
Edited by jeff m on Wednesday 1st July 22:15
If you wish you can double tack one side for more sound proofing.
Autonotiv said:
jeff m said:
Four by twos are the norm (in the States), you could use three by twos but if you intend running electric plugs/switches then the boxes may not fit easily.
Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
I would use 89mm x 38mm cls, with 12.5mm pb both sides. studs filled with rockwool.Also four by two would be preferable because it will meet a door jamb/frame!
Taping and spackling the joints of drywall is not difficult, well within the reach of an average DIYer. Gets a tad dusty
Don't forget to consider heating/cooling for both rooms !!!!
Edited by jeff m on Wednesday 1st July 22:15
If you wish you can double tack one side for more sound proofing.
don't forget to stagger the plasterboard joints if you do this for a better sound proofing.Depending which way the ceiling joists run you may have to hop up in the loft and put a few noggins in the fix the header to,other than that it is a straight forward job for any competent diyer to do
3" x 2" should be fine for this. Fix your sole plate to the floor, then using a plumb bob (or laser if you've got one) mark and fix the header to the ceiling. As has been said, if the ceiling joists run parallel put a few noggins in to ensure a decent fixing. 3" x 2" at each end of the wall and infill with studs at 450 centres. Board one side with 12.5mm plasterboard (use 6' x 3's - less mauling), infill with rockwool and board the other side. Tape and skim, jobs a good un.
B17NNS said:
3" x 2" should be fine for this. Fix your sole plate to the floor, then using a plumb bob (or laser if you've got one) mark and fix the header to the ceiling. As has been said, if the ceiling joists run parallel put a few noggins in to ensure a decent fixing. 3" x 2" at each end of the wall and infill with studs at 450 centres. Board one side with 12.5mm plasterboard (use 6' x 3's - less mauling), infill with rockwool and board the other side. Tape and skim, jobs a good un.
As above, but I'd use 8x4's purely to save having a horizontal join to deal with. Don't forget the convention is to make the boards tight to the ceiling, covering any shortage at the bottom with the skirting. Using Rockwool Flexislab instead of Fibreglass will give added fire and sound protection.Doing the door casings/linings will be the slow bit. Use 12.5mm taper edge boards with the vertical studs at 600mm centres (the common size for these boards is 2400 x 1200mm, studs go at each edge and centrally) and joint tape with ready mixed joint cement then you won't need to skim the boards. I'd agree with B17NNS on the 1800 boards if you have a narrow staircase to negotiate, just remember the horizontal joint.
If you have doubts, go to www.british-gypsum.bpb.com and you will find (eventually ;0 ) a series of photos showing you how to do it.
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