Oh no..................Smashed my drivers door........
Discussion
I reversed into a post with my door open, and it has almost been ripped completely off.
I think I may need a whole new door. It's even ripped out the top hinge bobbin from the tub. What a mess. Boo Hoo. And she was going so well following a lot of work and tinkering.
Has anyone any idea where I might find another S3 door? It's longer than on the S1&2.
Help please, or suggestions for good body repairers.
Thanks in advance,
Jon.
Gutted.
I think I may need a whole new door. It's even ripped out the top hinge bobbin from the tub. What a mess. Boo Hoo. And she was going so well following a lot of work and tinkering.
Has anyone any idea where I might find another S3 door? It's longer than on the S1&2.
Help please, or suggestions for good body repairers.
Thanks in advance,
Jon.
Gutted.
Give this guy a call, no doors listed but worth a call I think.
http://www.b-link.co.uk/tet/tet/sseries.htm
Also put a wanted ad in the classifieds.
It might also be worth a call to Bell Hill & Douglas Valley, but they are usually stupidly expensive.
See Useful links at the top of this forum for their details.
http://www.b-link.co.uk/tet/tet/sseries.htm
Also put a wanted ad in the classifieds.
It might also be worth a call to Bell Hill & Douglas Valley, but they are usually stupidly expensive.
See Useful links at the top of this forum for their details.
These guys had an S3c a year ago and IIRC it was blue. the doors were there when I last saw it and at the prices they were after then for bits and bobs they are unlikely to have sold them...
after all this time it may have been crushed (or whatever they do to plastic cars ?) but worth a call...
be prepared to pay with a kidney
Norman Marshall (Newcastle-upon-Tyne) > Newcastle Upon Tyne Vehicle Dismantling Salvage And Scrap Metal
Tel: 0191 2645066 - Shelley Road, Newcastle Upon Tyne, Tyne And Wear, NE15 9TU
good luck
K
after all this time it may have been crushed (or whatever they do to plastic cars ?) but worth a call...
be prepared to pay with a kidney
Norman Marshall (Newcastle-upon-Tyne) > Newcastle Upon Tyne Vehicle Dismantling Salvage And Scrap Metal
Tel: 0191 2645066 - Shelley Road, Newcastle Upon Tyne, Tyne And Wear, NE15 9TU
good luck
K
Well we are back on the road with two doors again, after a spell with only one! Now that beats having the roof off!
What a job though; top hinge bobbin re-fixed ok. Bottom hinge bobbin was siezed to the hinge bolt, so had to be ripped out of the tub too, in order to get the door off completely! Once off, that bobbin was easy to re-fix in place, but I then had to make up a plate to mount the adjustable hinge/pivot plate onto the door, as the impact had ripped that out of the door along with it's mounting bobbins.
Re-fitting the hinge bolts and re-aligning the door is not easy; it took some time and patience, and it's still not quite right.
The back end of the door is still a bit sketchy, but it all works and I can drive the beast again without worrying about rain coming in the side!
Hooray, and thanks for the help from the people above. I'm still looking for a door though.....
What a job though; top hinge bobbin re-fixed ok. Bottom hinge bobbin was siezed to the hinge bolt, so had to be ripped out of the tub too, in order to get the door off completely! Once off, that bobbin was easy to re-fix in place, but I then had to make up a plate to mount the adjustable hinge/pivot plate onto the door, as the impact had ripped that out of the door along with it's mounting bobbins.
Re-fitting the hinge bolts and re-aligning the door is not easy; it took some time and patience, and it's still not quite right.
The back end of the door is still a bit sketchy, but it all works and I can drive the beast again without worrying about rain coming in the side!
Hooray, and thanks for the help from the people above. I'm still looking for a door though.....
Sorry, forgot to take photos.....doohhhh.
Adjusting the top hinge is easy; find the 2 small 1/2 inch AF bolts in front and behind the big 17mm hinge bolt/pin.
Loosen them both slightly and the door should then have a bit of play to adjust it. (These are screwed into captive brass bobbins, which are glassed into the door itself.)
If you need to you can repeat, with the bottom hinge, but this is complicated by having the window glass aluminium frame fixed on top of the hinge adjuster. Remove, (quite an easy 5 min job, and you can then see how the hinges work) or at least loosen the frame, and the nut underneath it, to adjust the bottom hinge.
Note that the rear-most bottom "bolt" is actually a stud with an Allen key socket in the top. Loosen the nut(s) with a spanner while holding the stud with an Allen key.
You can see this part, just, once the door card is off.
I found it easiest to loosen and tighten the aforesaid bolts with a 1/2" socket and articulated extension.
I used paper to check for binding in the door gap all the way around, as it isn't easy to tell what is touching what as you open and close the door.
Hope that helps,
Jon.
Adjusting the top hinge is easy; find the 2 small 1/2 inch AF bolts in front and behind the big 17mm hinge bolt/pin.
Loosen them both slightly and the door should then have a bit of play to adjust it. (These are screwed into captive brass bobbins, which are glassed into the door itself.)
If you need to you can repeat, with the bottom hinge, but this is complicated by having the window glass aluminium frame fixed on top of the hinge adjuster. Remove, (quite an easy 5 min job, and you can then see how the hinges work) or at least loosen the frame, and the nut underneath it, to adjust the bottom hinge.
Note that the rear-most bottom "bolt" is actually a stud with an Allen key socket in the top. Loosen the nut(s) with a spanner while holding the stud with an Allen key.
You can see this part, just, once the door card is off.
I found it easiest to loosen and tighten the aforesaid bolts with a 1/2" socket and articulated extension.
I used paper to check for binding in the door gap all the way around, as it isn't easy to tell what is touching what as you open and close the door.
Hope that helps,
Jon.
When I had my S, I also had to take the door off to re-glass the top bobbin into the tub.
As explained, I re-assembled the door, bolting the 17mm 'hinge' bolts into their respective bobbins on the tub, effectively taking the weight of the door. However, the adjustment plates were just nipped up allowing me to swing the door and place/adjust it into the aperture with the lock catch engaged.
I then used timber wedges to align the door, ensuring an even gap around the perimeter. Once i was satisfied that I had even panel gaps and the door would close on the striker, I tightened the 1/2" (13mm ?) nuts on the adjustment plates to hold the position. As mentioned, access is limited, have an assortment of spanners and 1/4" rachet drive and UJs!! I had a load of packing washers on the 17mm hinge bolts too, IIRC I counted them on for both top & bottom fittings.
Nick
As explained, I re-assembled the door, bolting the 17mm 'hinge' bolts into their respective bobbins on the tub, effectively taking the weight of the door. However, the adjustment plates were just nipped up allowing me to swing the door and place/adjust it into the aperture with the lock catch engaged.
I then used timber wedges to align the door, ensuring an even gap around the perimeter. Once i was satisfied that I had even panel gaps and the door would close on the striker, I tightened the 1/2" (13mm ?) nuts on the adjustment plates to hold the position. As mentioned, access is limited, have an assortment of spanners and 1/4" rachet drive and UJs!! I had a load of packing washers on the 17mm hinge bolts too, IIRC I counted them on for both top & bottom fittings.
Nick
phillpot said:
Did you take any photo's ?
Would like to "understand" the hinge arrangement a bit better before trying to take some of the drop out of my drivers side door.
Critical to the understanding of the hinge is...that the hinge bolts are NOT just a 10mm bolt, the start of the taper to the shank MUST lock onto the bobbin in the shell, IF the replacement bolt does not lock-out on the shank, then it is relies on the whole bolt bottoming out against the fibreglass holding the bobbin into the tub (on the upper bobbin it breaks through the painted area above) and the threads of the brass bobbin for it's stability and will not last long.Would like to "understand" the hinge arrangement a bit better before trying to take some of the drop out of my drivers side door.
Adrian@
There appears to one on ebay right now...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TVR-S-SERIES-DRIVERS-DOOR_W0...
hope the link works..otherwise type TVR S series in search
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TVR-S-SERIES-DRIVERS-DOOR_W0...
hope the link works..otherwise type TVR S series in search
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