Discussion
What i thought was going to be a 422 now turns out to be a 427 thanks to Geoff's tweaking abilities,niiiiiice
Anyway as you can gather i went up to Jeal&sons(corvette& american vehicle specialists)on saturday to see how things are pressing along, Heads,Plenum and associated parts are back from the painters fresh in the brightest red youve seen,,Custom J&e pistons are now on the Oliver rods on the bench already balanced and sitting alongside Jeal 400 series cams and 4 angle grind valves with 3 angle seats in the heads and bottom end build up has begun with some custom liners fitted to get the 427 cubic inches of power,the block is also being fitted with studs for extra strength to stop cranky wandering.
Just the enthusiasm fix i needed,nice one
Also it was a refreshing to go a distance without a "Blue haze" following me now ive got the new motor in the sierra.
Anyway as you can gather i went up to Jeal&sons(corvette& american vehicle specialists)on saturday to see how things are pressing along, Heads,Plenum and associated parts are back from the painters fresh in the brightest red youve seen,,Custom J&e pistons are now on the Oliver rods on the bench already balanced and sitting alongside Jeal 400 series cams and 4 angle grind valves with 3 angle seats in the heads and bottom end build up has begun with some custom liners fitted to get the 427 cubic inches of power,the block is also being fitted with studs for extra strength to stop cranky wandering.
Just the enthusiasm fix i needed,nice one
Also it was a refreshing to go a distance without a "Blue haze" following me now ive got the new motor in the sierra.
vetteheadracer said:
Does that mean your handle will be ZR1427 from now on? 
Can't wait until I can afford to buy the 427 for my Z06.
>> Edited by vetteheadracer on Monday 8th December 12:24
Do you mean a C5R engine (which is 427Ci) for your Z06, or just a bored or sleeved 427ci engine/block/stroker kit or whatever it is lol.
ZR1, whats the estimate bhp then?
The studs replace the cap bolts, after the area around the thread is machined out and "top hats"are then screwed in to the block ready to take the studs(Geoff could probably explain better).
Thru fear of Bull S*** i wouldnt like to estimate the HP all i can say is Jeal&sons built an engine for the states and there are dyno readings for around 670 hp on the build shop wall,the extra cubes might make a difference and then the nitros of around a 100 shot,(hence the bottom end studs).
If i can get the car down to 1200k region it should make power to weight ratio quite high.
Thru fear of Bull S*** i wouldnt like to estimate the HP all i can say is Jeal&sons built an engine for the states and there are dyno readings for around 670 hp on the build shop wall,the extra cubes might make a difference and then the nitros of around a 100 shot,(hence the bottom end studs).
If i can get the car down to 1200k region it should make power to weight ratio quite high.
malc350 said:
Hi Cliff, pardon my ignorance (Callaway owner) how are you getting the weight down to 1200kg? Leaving the engine out ? !
Probably have one seat, get rid of the sound proofing, get rid of upholstery (carpets), get rid of electrics (power steering, power windows), have those race type slider windows, take out the dash, have a carbon kevlar seat, go on a diet himself, etc...
There was a list of about 200 things to do to a Corvette to get rid of weight (was for C5, and one for a Camaro, on an American site I visit, might just have to source the webpage).
My little black ZR weighs 1250Kgs now, I have some carbon doors which weigh 6lbs each (yea) and lexan side windows going on the car this winter as part of the tidy up (after putting the car off into a gravel trap on the last track day and doing a real nice job of pebble dashing the side of the car) so hopefully it will be down just under 1200Kgs by next season. I am going to have to look at a proper aero package for the car, there is a huge difference in handling between running with a full fuel tank and half full, its a little too sensitive at the moment.
On the question of bolts and Cliffs engine, the main bearing bolts are replaced by ARP studs and we use steel inserts for the periphery bolts on the alloy ladder frame to stop the ladder walking around on the bottom of the engine. This only happens with high HP LT5's.
On the question of Cliff's power output i will quote Rolls Royce "the power and torque are sufficient for the intended use"
On the question of bolts and Cliffs engine, the main bearing bolts are replaced by ARP studs and we use steel inserts for the periphery bolts on the alloy ladder frame to stop the ladder walking around on the bottom of the engine. This only happens with high HP LT5's.
On the question of Cliff's power output i will quote Rolls Royce "the power and torque are sufficient for the intended use"
Comfort, leg room and seat width were high requisites when I bought my car. Clearly, being of the american profile myself, a Vette was the perfect solution, having tried several other cars which are clearly designed for hairdressers or Formula one drivers - Ever seen anyone over 12 stone driving a McLaren? Fortunately, driving a 78, the idea of considering power to weight ratio is unrealistic so I just work on the logic of applying more grunt rather than trying to save a few kilos in weight which I can put on or lose over Christmas!!!
blackzr said:
On the question of bolts and Cliffs engine, the main bearing bolts are replaced by ARP studs
Right, done the same type of thing myself. But what surprised me was reading on another forum a guy saying that the block would have to be aligned honed afterwards as the studs can "warp" the metal. This would imply to me that the studs would have to be bottomed out & then forced in even tighter, or is honing after fitting studs standard practice?
>> Edited by beerhead on Tuesday 9th December 12:49
A good measure is with the ladder frame and main bolts/studs torqued up the crank should spin (two or three revolutions) by hand.
The actual torque to turn at this point of any build is equal to or less than 10Nm to turn. The LT5 is very different to any other small block in that the crankcase is split along the centre line of the crank so alignment between the two halves is critical.
What ever engine we build we always check crank alignment and have a mandril for each of the small block derivatives including 427 LS6.
The actual torque to turn at this point of any build is equal to or less than 10Nm to turn. The LT5 is very different to any other small block in that the crankcase is split along the centre line of the crank so alignment between the two halves is critical.
What ever engine we build we always check crank alignment and have a mandril for each of the small block derivatives including 427 LS6.
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