The scuba diving holiday thread

The scuba diving holiday thread

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Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Wednesday 20th May 2009
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As some of you know, this is my line of business, so I thought I'd tell you a bit about one of the places I have been which I can pretty much guarantee no one else on here has been to. This is because the island was only open to tourists for a year before the local airline folded, and the liveaboard dive boat that I went on subsequently became superfluous to requirements. I feel therefore, that this post is not me "blowing my own trumpet" simply because you can't get there anymore. I believe I am one of only about 70 people who have dived there, which makes me feel thpethul hehe

Anyway, the island is called Rongelap, and it is in the far northwestern reaches of the Marshall Islands. Which is in the middle of the central south Pacific. On other words, miles from anywhere.

To give you an idea of how long it takes to get there, I've rustled up a couple of maps showing the route and the flying times. It works like this:

Sunday:
London to Los Angeles/San Francisco - 11 hours flying.
Los Angeles/San Francisco to Honolulu - 5 hours flying. Overnight Honolulu.

Monday:
Honolulu to Majuro - 5 hours flying. Cross the international dateline, so arrive Tuesday

Tuesday:
Overnight Majuro

Wednesday:
Majuro to Kwajalein - 1.5 hours flying. Disembark plane for refuelling, enjoy a full body cavity search by the military police on Kwajalein and a snack. Board plane again and...
Kwajalein to Bikini Atoll - 1.5 hours flying. Get off plane and enjoy a nice dose of radiation. silly (Not really!)
Bikini Atoll to Rongelap - 45 minutes. And arrive! It's only take 3 days!





Here's the plane you fly from Majuro to Rongelap on:


And here's the airport. It's small, but nicer than Gatwick or Heathrow, that's for sure.


Here's the church in the main town, which consists of about 5 dwellings a resort that STILL hasn't opened and the err... church


I went on a boat called the Oleanda. To be honest it was a bit of a tub, and had a nice list to port due to a slow puncture that the bilge pumps couldn't keep up with. The cabins were basic, but it had a nice saloon and considering the difficulty in getting supplies to it, the food was excellent. We had fresh lobster on numerous occasions And the drinks were free! woohoo

Here she is:


Anyway, what's so special about the diving at Rongelap? Well, it's basically untouched. I went in 2005, and the atoll hadn't been dived at all except for the odd scientific expedition. The atoll was uninhabited for 20 years due to radiation problems associated with the US nuclear tests at Bikini Atoll. There has been no commercial fishing, let alone subsistence fishing; luckily the Taiwanese/Korean long-liners have passed it by. It is essentially a pristine marine environment.

Here's a map of the atoll:



Being an atoll it is surrounded by a fringing reef dotted with low lying islands, cut at random intervals by passes through which the tide sweeps twice a day. The lagoon is about 200ft deep and is dotted with bommies (coral heads) that rise close to the surface. The outer walls of the reef drop almost vertically to about 8 - 10 thousand feet. Visibility, even on the inside of the reef was awesome, and on the outer walls we had well in excess of 200ft of viz on most dives.

Divers and tenders from below:


Diver in one of the passes:


Most of the dives we did were either on the walls, in the passes or on the fringing reef inner walls within the lagoon. The reefs were some of the healthiest and most beautiful I have ever seen. There was no coral bleaching, no anchor damage, no fishing, no dynamting, nothing to damage them at all. The hard coral formations were stunning, and the walls were covered in huge schools of fairy basslets, anthias etc.

Here's some piccies of the reef:

Hard corals on the reef top:


School of anthias:


Divers and hard corals:


Pink stylaster corals:


Fire coral:


There were no soft corals on Rongelap. The Marshall Islands are too remote to have them, but the reefs were home to a host of critters.

Jawfish:


Moray eel:


Christmas tree worms:


Itty bitty fish:


Clownfish:


Giant pufferfish


On an incoming tide the current ripped through the passes at up to 5 knots, and they sucked all manner of creatures into the lagoon to feed - huge schools of jacks, snapper, barracuda, all predated on by dozens of grey reef sharks. We also saw spotted eagle rays on a number of dives. Night diving was banned on the atoll because the place is stuffed with tiger sharks, though we never saw any because they tend to be out in deep water during the day.

Spotted eagle ray:


Jacks in a pass:


Grey reef sharks:


Diver and grey reef sharks:


Another grey reef shark:


In the evening we would moor up in a bay in the lagoon and go and explore on land. The beaches were stunning, and you could often see small sharks, eagle rays and even mantas swimming in the shallows.

Life's a beach:


While the biodiversity at Rongelap is not especially high, the quantities of fish were mind blowing, and the shark action was superb. I'd love to go back, but that's just not possible at present. I feel priveledged to have had the opportunity to dive there, and would go back at a shot, not least because this trip was the first one I did with my D70 in a housing and I had technical problems with the aperture/shutter speed gears and using a digital camera underwater was all a bit new to me. (Well, that's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!)

Anyway, that's enough waffling from me. Hope you enjoyed it! Please feel free to comment or add your own scuba diving travelogue to this thread!

Edited by Fezant Pluckah on Thursday 21st May 11:44

srebbe64

13,021 posts

251 months

Wednesday 20th May 2009
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Awesome pics Jim - I wanna go there!

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Thursday 21st May 2009
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srebbe64 said:
Awesome pics Jim - I wanna go there!
Send me a blank cheque.... whistle

hornetrider

63,161 posts

219 months

Thursday 21st May 2009
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Cool idea for a thread.

We learned to dive when we went travelling with Marina Divers in Phuket, and dove Ko Racha Yai I think it was.

Our next dive was the Poor Knights in NZ - beautiful crystal clear waters, lovely coral and caves - if a little cold!

We then went on to do a live aboard out of Cairns on the Spirit of Freedom, a very nice boat and the most expensive to sail out of Cairns I think. The schedule was a one way trip to Lizard Island via Cod Hole (shark feed) with a low level flight back. Alas we had to cut the trip short by one day due to the untimely arrival of a tropical cyclone!

We also dove the WhitSundays ona boat trip out of Airlie Beach but the vis was poor and the wildlife not very interesting - I wouldn't really recommend it.

Since then though we haven't done any diving at all despite saying we would try on every holiday. We are going to Paphos later on this year - does Cyprus have any interesting dive sites?


Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Thursday 21st May 2009
quotequote all
hornetrider said:
Cool idea for a thread.

We learned to dive when we went travelling with Marina Divers in Phuket, and dove Ko Racha Yai I think it was.

Our next dive was the Poor Knights in NZ - beautiful crystal clear waters, lovely coral and caves - if a little cold!

We then went on to do a live aboard out of Cairns on the Spirit of Freedom, a very nice boat and the most expensive to sail out of Cairns I think. The schedule was a one way trip to Lizard Island via Cod Hole (shark feed) with a low level flight back. Alas we had to cut the trip short by one day due to the untimely arrival of a tropical cyclone!

We also dove the WhitSundays ona boat trip out of Airlie Beach but the vis was poor and the wildlife not very interesting - I wouldn't really recommend it.

Since then though we haven't done any diving at all despite saying we would try on every holiday. We are going to Paphos later on this year - does Cyprus have any interesting dive sites?
I've stayed at Marina Cottages in Phuket a number of times. I worked for the Siam Diving Centre (now defunct) in the mid 80s. In those days there were, if I recall, only 3 liveaboards diving the Similans and further north towards Burma, and it was real pioneer diving type stuff. I discovered a dive site to the south of the Similan Islands. We had heard from local fishermen that there was a pinnacle in deep water that was great for fishing, so we followed them out and they showed us where it was. It was a massive tower starting in about 300ft of water and came to within about 40ft of the surface, and was like a tall thin stepped pyramid that dropped down into the deep. It was shrouded in huge quantities of fish (and fishing line and net!) and covered in soft corals and sea fans. Viz was amazing - at least 200ft. I named it Chocolate Charlie's Rocks because we had an Austrian guy on the boat called Charlie who told us (much to the embarrassment of his girlfriend) that he liked to spread molten chocolate on her body and lick it off!

After Thailand I worked in Cairns for 18 months for Down Under Dive. I mainly worked on the Nimrod out in the Coral Sea and up the Ribbon Reefs to Cod Hole and Lizard Island, but also taught backpackers etc on their boats out of Cairns.

As for Cyprus, the most famous dive site is the Zenobia, a roll-on roll-off ferry. See here: http://www.discoverdivingcyprus.com/zenobia_wreck_...

Apart from that, I don't know anything about Cyprus, I am afraid. The Med's not my bag.

hornetrider

63,161 posts

219 months

Thursday 21st May 2009
quotequote all
Fezant Pluckah said:
As for Cyprus, the most famous dive site is the Zenobia, a roll-on roll-off ferry. See here: http://www.discoverdivingcyprus.com/zenobia_wreck_...

Brilliant, cheers for that!


mechsympathy

55,646 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st May 2009
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3 days to get there? I thought we were bad doing a 1600 mile round trip on "roads" like the pic for 3 dives in northern Mozambique.



It was worth it though.


taffyracer

2,093 posts

257 months

Saturday 23rd May 2009
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Hornetrider.....There are many dive shops in Paphos, the main and most established is Cydive....very good and considered to be the best, used to be run by a mate called Jurg and both myself and the wife have dived with him/them many times, Jurg left a year or so back though and has now got his own set up down by Coral Bay i believe, not sure on the name but I would check him out 1st and if you can't locate him quickly and easily then go to Cydive....I wouln't go anywhere else as there are many stty set ups.

As for diving, there's not alot, some nice dives down by Polis/Latchi, some obscure ones off the coast from the harbour at Paphos but the Zenobia is by far the best.....well worth the effort, one of the top 10 wrecks in the world

Edited by taffyracer on Saturday 23 May 07:16

Tangoed

924 posts

229 months

Saturday 23rd May 2009
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Top ten wrecks eh! I wouldnt rate it at that.

What about Truk Lagoon, theres only about 50 wrecks, stunning with fish coral and all there cargos intact.

You wont even find a duty free bottle of wine on the Zenobia!


Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Saturday 23rd May 2009
quotequote all
Tangoed said:
Top ten wrecks eh! I wouldnt rate it at that.

What about Truk Lagoon, theres only about 50 wrecks, stunning with fish coral and all there cargos intact.

You wont even find a duty free bottle of wine on the Zenobia!

Are you implying that EVERY wreck in Truk is better than the Zenobia? If so, I'd beg to differ. There are only 3 wrecks in Truk that are possible contenders to being on the "World's 10 Best Wreck Dives" list. A lot of them are mediocre at best, and utter cack at worst. Whether the Zenobia should be in that list is perhaps debatable, but it's certainly an awe-inspiring wreck and not to be sniffed at.

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Monday 8th June 2009
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Had an interesting (and scary!) email from a chum today that some might be interested in:

BTW, one of the dive sites I was really looking forward to on the live-aboard is a “blue water mangrove” area, a rare combination of clear water, coral reefs and mangroves. Two days before we arrived, however, a diver from another boat was surfacing in that area with his buddy and the dive guide, when they saw a large saltwater croc enter the water very nearby. Apparently the dive guide yelled for the divers to descend, but the one guy either didn’t understand or was slow getting down. Anyway, the croc apparently swam straight to him and immediately grabbed him by the throat and chest, then went into a “death roll”. The dive guide and buddy wrestled with the croc, trying unsuccessfully to pry its jaws open. In desperation, the buddy jammed his fingers in the croc’s eyes, and it finally let go. The guy had very serious lacerations to the throat and several extremities, but was lucky to be alive. After a visit to the local clinic, he was eventually flown out to Singapore, and after two surgeries, is expected to recover. Gotta respect those giant lizards!!

This happened in West Papua, Indonesia.

So the advice would seem to be, don't go in the water when there are salties about!

Edited by Fezant Pluckah on Monday 8th June 16:14

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Thursday 2nd July 2009
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A couple of my regular clients have just returned from French Polyfilla, where they spent 3 weeks diving.

He kindly sent me this picture, taken in Tumakohua Pass at the southern end of Fakarava Atoll, in the Tuamotu Archipelago:



Good stuff, eh? Anyone fancy a dip? The water's lovely, you know!

pitbull turbo

663 posts

195 months

Thursday 2nd July 2009
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wow stunning pictures.
i have always wanted to dive with sharks and i really want to do it for my 25th birthday in september but i have no diving lisence yet and no funds to get one :-(
i love diving and snorkeling and i am saving up hard to do the certs to dive properly.

do you know anyway i could get to dive with sharks without a cert?
also any good places to dive around turkey or eygpt as i am going in september and want to try and do my courses there?

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Thursday 2nd July 2009
quotequote all
pitbull turbo said:
wow stunning pictures.
i have always wanted to dive with sharks and i really want to do it for my 25th birthday in september but i have no diving lisence yet and no funds to get one :-(
i love diving and snorkeling and i am saving up hard to do the certs to dive properly.

do you know anyway i could get to dive with sharks without a cert?
also any good places to dive around turkey or eygpt as i am going in september and want to try and do my courses there?
To answer your first question: None, I would think. It would be highly unlikely that a dive instructor or dive shop would take you somewhere for a try out dive (regardless of how many you may have done) that is stuffed with sharks. If they take you to a bit of reef and you see one, great, but I don't think they'll take you to Shark Alley or similar. It would be iresponsible of them to do so.
And Q2: The chances of seeing a shark in Turkey are almost zero. I dived there last summer and it was ste (though that's all slightly relative, I suppose!) Egypt, well I would go to Marsa Alam in S Egypt as the diving is better and there are fewer touristicals, and better chance of seeing a shark, though they are about all over. However, you're not going to see them in such numbers as above. It's not the right kind of diving for that to happen.

HTH

pitbull turbo

663 posts

195 months

Thursday 2nd July 2009
quotequote all
i thought that would be the case and i under stand that fully.
i really need to do alot of training and getb into it properly as i love it.
i have been diving in turkey before and i thought it was great but i am a berginer and only dream of going to the places you dive.
i am kinds stuck into either go to turkey for a good holiday but crap diving or go to eygpt and not have such a good holiday but good diving.

once you have done the courses is it quite easy to get schools to take you to places with sharks?

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Thursday 2nd July 2009
quotequote all

Why would you have a crap holiday in Egypt? smile There's nowt wrong with it. If you want a diving holiday, go to Egypt, and it WILL be much better and probably no more expesnsive. (Actually it may well be cheaper, as it's a competetive market!) And once you're certified, no reason for them not to take you to see sharkies.

And you don't need a "lot" of training. The PADI O/W course takes 4 days. Not too long....

Edited by Fezant Pluckah on Thursday 2nd July 17:09

pitbull turbo

663 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd July 2009
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well i have kinda read a lot of horror stories a bout eygpt as a place and the hygine and food.
i have been looking at courses and i think next year i will do a course. i wish i could do it before my 25 th but i won't afford it :-(
i also find snokelling much easier than diving and prefere it at the moment, is this because i can't dive properly yet and once i have got better at it then will i perfer diving?
sorry for ruining your thread just great to talk to a diving instructor and get the infomation i have been looking for.

Fezant Pluckah

Original Poster:

1,711 posts

225 months

Friday 3rd July 2009
quotequote all
pitbull turbo said:
well i have kinda read a lot of horror stories a bout eygpt as a place and the hygine and food.
i have been looking at courses and i think next year i will do a course. i wish i could do it before my 25 th but i won't afford it :-(
i also find snokelling much easier than diving and prefere it at the moment, is this because i can't dive properly yet and once i have got better at it then will i perfer diving?
sorry for ruining your thread just great to talk to a diving instructor and get the infomation i have been looking for.
Well, as long as you're sensible with regards to food & drink, you should be fine. A lot more people come home withOUT the Rameses Runs than do! smile

Snorkelling is great when the conditions are just right - calm seas, shallow reefs etc. But remember if you want to go and look at something a little deeper than your eyes will allow you to see properly, you have to hold your breath and head on down. So your time is limited simply because you will have to come back up again in a minute or so (depending on how long you can hold your breath!) With diving that is not an issue (subject to the normal constraints of depth & time!), and you can sit and watch something for many minutes at a time without worrying about having to head back to the surface to survive wink

I rarely snork nowadays, except with my kids, who are still too young to dive. But then again, I rarely have the opportunity on a dive boat, because if you're doing 5 dives a day all you want to do between dives is eat or sleep or veg on the sundeck!

You're not ruining the thread. It's an ideal place for you to pose questions - it's why I started it!

And I'm not an instructor anymore wink


mechsympathy

55,646 posts

269 months

Friday 3rd July 2009
quotequote all
pitbull turbo said:
well i have kinda read a lot of horror stories a bout eygpt as a place and the hygine and food.
Have you heard anything from the hundreds of thousands who go to Egypt with no problems?

pitbull turbo said:
i also find snokelling much easier than diving and prefere it at the moment, is this because i can't dive properly yet and once i have got better at it then will i perfer diving?
yesMy SWMBO said the same to start with, and even said the open water course was a waste of money. She knows different now.


pitbull turbo

663 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd July 2009
quotequote all
i find the snokelling ok as its something i can just pick up and do although i haven't got the hang of blowing the water out if it yet so rarely go deep. i do more sort of costal snorkelling but both my other half and i are very keen to start diving and get under water cameras and stuff too!

i guess maybe i do worry to much about eygpt and i am sure its lovely place to go and i think i will consider it as the diving is good there compared to turkey then :-)

i have mild astmha will this cause a problem with me taking courses or diving? i have dived before and not had a problem but worried it will restrict me now.

the idea of being able to dive properly and see amazing stuff really interest me :-)

how many different courses are there and what would i need to do to dive to a good level and see sharks and stuff?

have you dived with dangrous sharks before? blue sharks or great whites or tiger sharksa dns tuff?
bit worried if i was diving in eygpt i would come face to face with a bull shark and then i might crap myself lol.