A6 Le Mans Brakes
Discussion
My 3.0 tdi Le Mans has now done 45,000 miles and brake pad wear indicator has just lit up. Audi say I need new discs too. Apparently the front discs are lipped and thickness is 24mm one side 26mm on the other. What is the minimum disk thickness, do I need to replace discs if they are lipped and how easy a job is it to do? Looks like discs are £75 each and pads £58. Dealer has quoted me £328 for the whole job.
Dilligaf10 said:
You are lucky, I had to have pads and discs changed at 30k on my A6. You can't be driving it hard enough!!
Lots of motorway miles in the last 6 months. Daily trips to Doncaster, Manchester and Hampshire. Just has the 3rd set of tyres fitted! Went for Vredstein Ultrac Sessanta, today was first use in heaby rain and standing water. They are very very good. Miles better than previous Pirelli PZero which were terrible or Dunlop SP9000 which were good.Hardest driving is done in my G33
To be fair sounds about right in terms of wear. I know my pads need doing every 25k and disks every twice that iirc on an a4 should think similar on yours. Easy to do yourself about 45mins once you know how.
To do them you would need...
A 7 allen key
a no 20 socket
copper grease
cable ties
brake fluid
turkey baster
Process is easy
Open bonnet remove brake fluid reservoir cap.
Lift car and pref put on stand.
Take wheel off.
Use allen key to loosen caliper bolts one on top at back of calipers one on bottom
Place cable tie round caliper assembly and loop through a solid component (suspension)
undo both bolts holding assembly to hub
Pull caliper assembly off disk. Can be harder said than done meaning easng calipers apart to get over the lip on the disks in which casekeep an eye on fluid reservoir to make sure it doesnt overflow.
beware the disk may not have oxidised and stuck to hub and may just drop off as its held in place by the wheel.Pads are held in caliper assembly by spring clips simply pull them away from caliper assembly. You will also need a small flat screwdriver to open the clip on the pad wear sensor plug.
Oh you will also need to push the caliper piston back which can be done in various ways though using the correct tool would be a lot quicker and easier and doing that you will again need to monitor brake fluid and if it hits the brim of the fluid holder siphon out using turkey baster.
Then simply clean oil coating off new disks using spray you can buy from halfrauds or audi and fit new pads . Also you will need to put copper grease on the back of the brake pads and scrub the hub (wire brush is how i do it) to remove any rust as well before placing disk with a little smear of copper grease on hub contact area . Then simply reverse process.
To do them you would need...
A 7 allen key
a no 20 socket
copper grease
cable ties
brake fluid
turkey baster
Process is easy
Open bonnet remove brake fluid reservoir cap.
Lift car and pref put on stand.
Take wheel off.
Use allen key to loosen caliper bolts one on top at back of calipers one on bottom
Place cable tie round caliper assembly and loop through a solid component (suspension)
undo both bolts holding assembly to hub
Pull caliper assembly off disk. Can be harder said than done meaning easng calipers apart to get over the lip on the disks in which casekeep an eye on fluid reservoir to make sure it doesnt overflow.
beware the disk may not have oxidised and stuck to hub and may just drop off as its held in place by the wheel.Pads are held in caliper assembly by spring clips simply pull them away from caliper assembly. You will also need a small flat screwdriver to open the clip on the pad wear sensor plug.
Oh you will also need to push the caliper piston back which can be done in various ways though using the correct tool would be a lot quicker and easier and doing that you will again need to monitor brake fluid and if it hits the brim of the fluid holder siphon out using turkey baster.
Then simply clean oil coating off new disks using spray you can buy from halfrauds or audi and fit new pads . Also you will need to put copper grease on the back of the brake pads and scrub the hub (wire brush is how i do it) to remove any rust as well before placing disk with a little smear of copper grease on hub contact area . Then simply reverse process.
Edited by jimmyb on Friday 15th May 18:16
blueg33 said:
Dilligaf10 said:
You are lucky, I had to have pads and discs changed at 30k on my A6. You can't be driving it hard enough!!
Lots of motorway miles in the last 6 months. Daily trips to Doncaster, Manchester and Hampshire. Just has the 3rd set of tyres fitted! Went for Vredstein Ultrac Sessanta, today was first use in heaby rain and standing water. They are very very good. Miles better than previous Pirelli PZero which were terrible or Dunlop SP9000 which were good.Hardest driving is done in my G33
Dilligaf10 said:
blueg33 said:
Dilligaf10 said:
You are lucky, I had to have pads and discs changed at 30k on my A6. You can't be driving it hard enough!!
Lots of motorway miles in the last 6 months. Daily trips to Doncaster, Manchester and Hampshire. Just has the 3rd set of tyres fitted! Went for Vredstein Ultrac Sessanta, today was first use in heaby rain and standing water. They are very very good. Miles better than previous Pirelli PZero which were terrible or Dunlop SP9000 which were good.Hardest driving is done in my G33
I found the Pzeros good in the dry awful in the wet and thewaer rate was horrible. Got 17k out of the Pzeros and 27k out of the dunlops. Will be interesting to see with the sessantas, but they were galf the price of the dunlop spmax.
blueg33 said:
The vredsteins were horrible for the first 100 miles but a great now. Does Mrs D have Ultrac Sessantas?, they also have good reviews.
I found the Pzeros good in the dry awful in the wet and thewaer rate was horrible. Got 17k out of the Pzeros and 27k out of the dunlops. Will be interesting to see with the sessantas, but they were galf the price of the dunlop spmax.
Mrs D has Vredestein Guigario's (sp?)(No, it's not a disease!)I found the Pzeros good in the dry awful in the wet and thewaer rate was horrible. Got 17k out of the Pzeros and 27k out of the dunlops. Will be interesting to see with the sessantas, but they were galf the price of the dunlop spmax.
What's the road noise like on them, find the Pirelli's are good for road noise.
Dilligaf10 said:
blueg33 said:
The vredsteins were horrible for the first 100 miles but a great now. Does Mrs D have Ultrac Sessantas?, they also have good reviews.
I found the Pzeros good in the dry awful in the wet and thewaer rate was horrible. Got 17k out of the Pzeros and 27k out of the dunlops. Will be interesting to see with the sessantas, but they were galf the price of the dunlop spmax.
Mrs D has Vredestein Guigario's (sp?)(No, it's not a disease!)I found the Pzeros good in the dry awful in the wet and thewaer rate was horrible. Got 17k out of the Pzeros and 27k out of the dunlops. Will be interesting to see with the sessantas, but they were galf the price of the dunlop spmax.
What's the road noise like on them, find the Pirelli's are good for road noise.
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff