E39 M5 New Engine & Gearbox
Discussion
Oh well, I suppose it had to happen. After 3 years and 100k miles, it sounds as though my engine is close to imploding.
It started with some untoward vibration at startup that was traced (originally) to broken oil filter housing bushes, although that didn't cure it totally, then the timing chain tensioner was replaced, but the noise is still there until the car is warmed up, when it sounds like a fan is constantly running (a hmmmmmmmm noise as it were). There is a lot of top-end rattle, and now when its warm after a drive its sounds like a bag of bolts have been dropped into it. Me no happy!
So, any ideas on how much it would cost to
a) get BMW to fit a new engine
b) source a second hand engine and gearbox and get that fitted.
Or is it most likely cheaper to simply scrap it and buy another .....
It started with some untoward vibration at startup that was traced (originally) to broken oil filter housing bushes, although that didn't cure it totally, then the timing chain tensioner was replaced, but the noise is still there until the car is warmed up, when it sounds like a fan is constantly running (a hmmmmmmmm noise as it were). There is a lot of top-end rattle, and now when its warm after a drive its sounds like a bag of bolts have been dropped into it. Me no happy!
So, any ideas on how much it would cost to
a) get BMW to fit a new engine
b) source a second hand engine and gearbox and get that fitted.
Or is it most likely cheaper to simply scrap it and buy another .....
Are you sure the engine is shot?
Thought about this instead?
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
Thought about this instead?
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
I had it into a BMW specialist (?) and he had no idea .....
The quote was from a bunch called Parts Plaza UK Ltd, and it was for a "genuine low-mileage engine" and they are quoting for collection, installation and a 6 month warranty. I'd requested a quote from www.findanengine.co.uk and the chap called me within about twenty mins, swore he had one in stock.
My fear is that its "possibly" the timing chain guides that are causing the whirring hum, and if the vanos are on their way out as well then the total cost could get quite high: I understand the timing chain is an engine out job anyway and a BMW job only at that because you need the Siemans bit of kit to re-time the Vanos units and teh specialist I spoke to said that there aren't any of those outside of the BMW network, but I'm willing to be proven wrong.
The quote was from a bunch called Parts Plaza UK Ltd, and it was for a "genuine low-mileage engine" and they are quoting for collection, installation and a 6 month warranty. I'd requested a quote from www.findanengine.co.uk and the chap called me within about twenty mins, swore he had one in stock.
My fear is that its "possibly" the timing chain guides that are causing the whirring hum, and if the vanos are on their way out as well then the total cost could get quite high: I understand the timing chain is an engine out job anyway and a BMW job only at that because you need the Siemans bit of kit to re-time the Vanos units and teh specialist I spoke to said that there aren't any of those outside of the BMW network, but I'm willing to be proven wrong.
mondeoman said:
[quote=< FORZA WEST]Engines rarly fail on these...Its normally a vanos unit, water pump or vibration damper (crank pully)
Is there an easy test I can do for any of these at home over the weekend?I would have a compression test done as this will identify whether your engine has been damaged by timing issues. A compression or leak down test will pick up if the pistons have hit any valves. If the valve is bent it will not seat correctly and you will get a low compression ratio. Halford sell a compression test and I think most garages will be able to do a leak down test which is even better. I would not try and drive the engine in the meantime though.
The above will at least prove if your vanos/timing issue has damaged your engine!. Even if a valve has hit a piston, you might find that the top end can still be rebuilt for less than the new engine.
I would then take the oil filter off and check to see if you have any metal particles in it. Again this will tell if anything serious has happened.
I am not sure if the crank pulley is visible on the engine or behind the timing cover. I suspect that you might need to take the cover off to have a look if the gel is broken. Again the water pump may be behind the cover.
Personally, I would try and recover the car to an indie or pay a decent mechanic to come to your house as you might find your engine can be rectified. The above work shouldn't take them too long.
If the engine is still not running cleanly after their work (assuming they confirm that their are no compression issues) they may drop the sump off and check to see if the main bearing shells are ok. Any internal damage will show up within the shells and this will prove whether you really need a new engine.
Also, have you thought about broken sensors as this will make the engine run like a dog?
Best of luck.
Hedgetrimmer said:
mondeoman said:
[quote=< FORZA WEST]Engines rarly fail on these...Its normally a vanos unit, water pump or vibration damper (crank pully)
Is there an easy test I can do for any of these at home over the weekend?At the moment its hasn't missed a beat, I'm just concerned if there is something internally fubarred. I'll have a poke around at the weekend, and that vanos kit sounds promising.
Does it sound like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDy2ikMsLLI&fea...
My E39 has been making this noise for the past three years, still goes well and the noise hasn't got any worse!
I have just learnt to live with it, as it's just not worth spending the time or money involved in fixing it.
My E39 has been making this noise for the past three years, still goes well and the noise hasn't got any worse!
I have just learnt to live with it, as it's just not worth spending the time or money involved in fixing it.
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