Question re "Ignition Switched Live feed"
Discussion
I am fitting a small amplifier behind the driver's seat so that I can connect an iPod or similar.
I am using the "Ignition Switched Live" feed to power the amp.
Should I aditionally fit a switch on the dashboard for this power feed, or will it be OK WITHOUT a switch, such that the amp is powered all the time that the car is being driven ?
Thank you very much,
Regards
Kelvin
I am using the "Ignition Switched Live" feed to power the amp.
Should I aditionally fit a switch on the dashboard for this power feed, or will it be OK WITHOUT a switch, such that the amp is powered all the time that the car is being driven ?
Thank you very much,
Regards
Kelvin
car amplifiers usually come with a remote power on and a 12V battery connection.
Depending on the size of your amplifier you can use it with the ignition switch for both
the remote and the supply. If your amplifier is a more powerful one (aka fuse higher than 10 amps), it is better to have
the supply wired directly (assuming the amp has its own fuse)to the battery and connect the
remote power on of your amp to the ignition switch.
Depending on the size of your amplifier you can use it with the ignition switch for both
the remote and the supply. If your amplifier is a more powerful one (aka fuse higher than 10 amps), it is better to have
the supply wired directly (assuming the amp has its own fuse)to the battery and connect the
remote power on of your amp to the ignition switch.
spatz said:
car amplifiers usually come with a remote power on and a 12V battery connection.
Depending on the size of your amplifier you can use it with the ignition switch for both
the remote and the supply. If your amplifier is a more powerful one (aka fuse higher than 10 amps), it is better to have
the supply wired directly (assuming the amp has its own fuse)to the battery and connect the
remote power on of your amp to the ignition switch.
Thanks for this info.Depending on the size of your amplifier you can use it with the ignition switch for both
the remote and the supply. If your amplifier is a more powerful one (aka fuse higher than 10 amps), it is better to have
the supply wired directly (assuming the amp has its own fuse)to the battery and connect the
remote power on of your amp to the ignition switch.
Ok - How does this sound ...I will attach the "Unfused Permanent Live" connection on my loom,to the amplifier, and use the "Ignition Switched Live" for the remote connection on the amp.
Regards
Edited by pilbeam_mp62 on Monday 30th March 11:12
Steve_D said:
That is the way to do it.
If you look back you will find threads talking about the ignition switch getting hot. This is because it is already carrying a little too much. My ignition switch trips a relay to carry most of the load.
Steve
Thanks Steve - I am just getting a few things straight in my mind, as I have a run of a few days at Milford over Easter, and I want to try to make some solid progress !If you look back you will find threads talking about the ignition switch getting hot. This is because it is already carrying a little too much. My ignition switch trips a relay to carry most of the load.
Steve
Cheers
Kelvin
DiscUltima said:
have anyone encountered voltage dropping during result of starting/cranking the engine?
or put in voltage regulator?
Mine drops to 9 volts whilst cranking. Am looking at fitting a bigger battery as I'm always having issues with the starter not engaging and chattering like a machine gun. It does this when the engine is warm so suspect it may also be the starter to hot from the headers.or put in voltage regulator?
Steve
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