Cold weld epoxy for exhausts
Cold weld epoxy for exhausts
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svsdino

Original Poster:

94 posts

218 months

Sunday 15th March 2009
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I Took my S3 out for a ride in the New forest today and of course got frustrated with the amount of tourists etc so took her off along a quieter but less smooth road for some fun and you guessed it, Wallop! an almighty touch down and then noticed a big exhaust blow. I'e already mended 1 split between the pipe and the rectangular baffle with a bandage and firegum but it wasn't that successful.
My question is has anyone used cold weld and if they have touched down again does it just knock it back out again? I have fitted Gaz golds to the front and i may have set them too low. I st the height to 180mm but haven't yet re checked it since they've settled. It ruined a great drive as yesterday was just fantastic.

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Sunday 15th March 2009
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Better to get it welded - shouldn't cost much at a friendly garage or exhaust place.

Ring round first, some don't do it anymore as hot works bumps up their insurance.

svsdino

Original Poster:

94 posts

218 months

Sunday 15th March 2009
quotequote all
Hi Chris
Forgot to say it's a stainless system otherwise i would have done that. Brake servo works great by the way and has sorted out the idle- looking for airleaks everywhere didn't think it could leak at the servo! Now it idles perfectly.

mep12345

2,061 posts

231 months

Sunday 15th March 2009
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Most good welders will weld stainless. You can use normal steel electrodes, but you need good ventilation and the weld is then prone to corrosion, but should still last better than any form of "bodge" repair with gun gum or some such substance

phillpot

17,511 posts

213 months

Monday 16th March 2009
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Stainless can be silver soldered ( Iknow, I've done it) or i am told
brazed. this may not be quite as strong as weld but requires less heat so less distortion and less chance of blowing holes particularly if metal is quite thin.
Either way its better if exhaust is off the car as area to be worked must be very clean ( no tarnish, paint or old gum gum stuff ) and its always easier to work from above the crack rather than trying to braze "uphill" from underneath