I NEED YOUR HELP
Discussion
The week has just gotten a whole lot worse. Some of you may recall that my S went down to a garage last week after the gearbox stopped working. It turns out the clutch and master cylinder seals have perished and leak oil like a sieve. Gearbox is fine. I thought I could just about live with this and a service.
I've just had the report read over to me on the phone and I'm shattered. (I include every thing I wrote down before I had to walk out the office and take a breath.)
Roof seals and door seals all need replaced. Roof fabric coming away and needs redone.
Doors, maximum uptake on adjusters done, still bottoms out on sills - can only be fixed by serious bodywork fabrication. Bodywork has moved with age, asked for rough quote a couple of grand at a guess.
Lower steering column bush perished, serious issue as dangerous to drive. No original parts for this, will require fabrication of parts = 6 hrs labour charge.
Radiator leaks - needs recore.
Engine mounting collapsed, engine out.
Sump 1 mm away from anti-roll bar.
Exhaust rubbing on sump.
Engine oil leaks. Said thought this was normal. Isn't to have as much as mine. Engine out, can't give costs as to how much all new seals will be as not sure what parts are in there.
Off side disc (can't read writing on my notebook at this point) something about leaking.
Something else about a disc.
Chassis needs slight paint could do with waxoil on top.
Exhaust mounting rubber split.
Total bill not including engine out £2,500 (PLEASE SOMEONE CHECK ALL THIS IF I AM NOT ALLOWED TO WRITE THIS BECAUSE OF TERMS AND CONDTIONS AS I DON'T WANT TO CAUSE OFFENSE OR PROBLEMS) PM ME IF THERE IS A PROBLEM. THANK YOU.
I am completely shocked and stunned. I was told I would not have to do any work on this car bar little cosmetic things. This has ruined the whole experience for me.
Just looking back at that list two things have become apparent to me. 1. How I didn't end up like Ayrton Senna with a bust steering column heading to work or down the M3. 2. How lucky I was it didn't go up in flames.
How much can I sell if for?
Is it really worth keeping? I paid £3,850.
I will never EVER buy a car again without a full report by a specialist. I've text the previous owner to enlighten him as to my predicament, although I bought as condition seen so I can expect bugger all recourse. How the hell it got through an MOT is beyond me. With the steering being as dangerous as it is and my car only having been driven 150 miles per year for 6 years - it's not as if 25 miles over a few months has changed anything?! MOT said not faults...incredible.
Please give me some advice guys as I've reached the end of my patience.
I've just had the report read over to me on the phone and I'm shattered. (I include every thing I wrote down before I had to walk out the office and take a breath.)
Roof seals and door seals all need replaced. Roof fabric coming away and needs redone.
Doors, maximum uptake on adjusters done, still bottoms out on sills - can only be fixed by serious bodywork fabrication. Bodywork has moved with age, asked for rough quote a couple of grand at a guess.
Lower steering column bush perished, serious issue as dangerous to drive. No original parts for this, will require fabrication of parts = 6 hrs labour charge.
Radiator leaks - needs recore.
Engine mounting collapsed, engine out.
Sump 1 mm away from anti-roll bar.
Exhaust rubbing on sump.
Engine oil leaks. Said thought this was normal. Isn't to have as much as mine. Engine out, can't give costs as to how much all new seals will be as not sure what parts are in there.
Off side disc (can't read writing on my notebook at this point) something about leaking.
Something else about a disc.
Chassis needs slight paint could do with waxoil on top.
Exhaust mounting rubber split.
Total bill not including engine out £2,500 (PLEASE SOMEONE CHECK ALL THIS IF I AM NOT ALLOWED TO WRITE THIS BECAUSE OF TERMS AND CONDTIONS AS I DON'T WANT TO CAUSE OFFENSE OR PROBLEMS) PM ME IF THERE IS A PROBLEM. THANK YOU.
I am completely shocked and stunned. I was told I would not have to do any work on this car bar little cosmetic things. This has ruined the whole experience for me.
Just looking back at that list two things have become apparent to me. 1. How I didn't end up like Ayrton Senna with a bust steering column heading to work or down the M3. 2. How lucky I was it didn't go up in flames.
How much can I sell if for?
Is it really worth keeping? I paid £3,850.
I will never EVER buy a car again without a full report by a specialist. I've text the previous owner to enlighten him as to my predicament, although I bought as condition seen so I can expect bugger all recourse. How the hell it got through an MOT is beyond me. With the steering being as dangerous as it is and my car only having been driven 150 miles per year for 6 years - it's not as if 25 miles over a few months has changed anything?! MOT said not faults...incredible.
Please give me some advice guys as I've reached the end of my patience.
Edited by The Stiglet on Thursday 5th March 11:32
Pierce I think you are in shock mate. Stand back and have a look at what you can live with for the time being. A car of this age is always going to be an ongoing project. As said above most of these things can be done yourself. The engine mounts are not expensive. There has been recent posts about using performance mounts because of the vacinity to the ARB. I don't think fitting new mounts is a massive job (somebody will be on soon to confirm). I believe the steering bush is available and again its not a massive job. I don't know about the doors but Adrian Venn should be able to advise you/give you a price to correct the problem.
Chin up the fun the car will give you is well worth the effort.
Chin up the fun the car will give you is well worth the effort.
Edited by TonupS2 on Thursday 5th March 11:46
The Stiglet said:
and my car only having been driven 150 miles per year for 6 years
This may be the root cause of many of your problems - what you're looking at is basically the result of six years' worth of neglect and lack of use. To be bluntly honest - the list doesn't sound too bad for a car as 'mature' as an S - if the chassis is OK I'd go ahead with it (maybe after getting an alternative quote or two and/or discussing with your garage what you could do yourself/can wait until later). You're unlucky that you are confronted with a long list of stuff at once but at least chances are you'll be alright for a long while after you have worked through the list instead of 'falling from one thing into another'.
I had a really costly bill after I got my car for putting bits 'n bobs right while the engine was out and off for a rebuild/upgrade; but since then I enjoyed a year/ 6,000 miles worth of utterly trouble-free motoring.
Edited by 900T-R on Thursday 5th March 12:04
Happy to be corrected on any of these points but I suspect the majority of the cost will be labour....
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
And finally - don't let me catch you thinking about getting rid again - thats just crazy talk.
AND DRIVE IT MORE!
The Stiglet said:
Roof seals and door seals all need replaced. Roof fabric coming away and needs redone.
Door and roof seals are dirt cheap and you can do them yourself. The roof is about £300 and is DIY. Look at pies' S site for a tutorial.The Stiglet said:
Doors, maximum uptake on adjusters done, still bottoms out on sills - can only be fixed by serious bodywork fabrication. Bodywork has moved with age, asked for rough quote a couple of grand at a guess.
Not a priority unless it is eating into the bodywork?The Stiglet said:
Lower steering column bush perished, serious issue as dangerous to drive. No original parts for this, will require fabrication of parts = 6 hrs labour charge.
Prioritise this.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The Stiglet said:
Radiator leaks - needs recore.
Probably about £150 for the re-core. DIY the restThe Stiglet said:
Engine mounting collapsed, engine out.
Crikey, seems extreme? Can it not be lifted and lixed rather than having the whole lot out?The Stiglet said:
Sump 1 mm away from anti-roll bar.
As aboveThe Stiglet said:
Exhaust rubbing on sump.
As aboveThe Stiglet said:
Engine oil leaks. Said thought this was normal. Isn't to have as much as mine. Engine out, can't give costs as to how much all new seals will be as not sure what parts are in there.
Sump? Don't think this is an engine out job.The Stiglet said:
Off side disc (can't read writing on my notebook at this point) something about leaking.
Something else about a disc.
New discs are cheapy DIYSomething else about a disc.
The Stiglet said:
Chassis needs slight paint could do with waxoil on top.
Paint + brush.The Stiglet said:
Exhaust mounting rubber split.
TVR car parts sell 'em for peanuts.And finally - don't let me catch you thinking about getting rid again - thats just crazy talk.
AND DRIVE IT MORE!
I think you have had a huge quote, i guess by someone who isn't a specialist.
Radiator re-cores are expensive, but there was a nice rad for sale on ebay for £50 and probably 1hr to fit at home.
Roof seals and dropping doors are S problems, roof seals can be sorted fairly easilly by most people for under £50. If the soft top fabric is coming away that can be expensive to put right, again put it to the back of list if it doesn't look bad and isn't leaking
The other big job is the engine mounts sagging causing clearance problem with sump and exhaust and roll bar. The mounts are about £10 each, but I can't advise whether its an engine out to change them.
Discs are cheap and easy to change, about £30 a pair
The steering bush going should'nt cause a accident as the wheel is still connected to the rack, it will cause play in the column (wiggling the wheel left to right) but the column is secured by other rigid means, if it is the standard ford part that is gone it is replacable if not a mod from a S2/S3 part can be done which are available.
My advise it get quotes to change the engine mounts, or make friends with a fellow s owner who has the skills and time to do this and buy them lots of beer. This is the big job and the only one the last owner may have warned you about if they were aware
It looks like you have a lovely S1 that doesn't have any of the big issues (chassis, trailing arms). The steering bush and any problems with the discs are the only things an MOT should have picked up. A specialist inspection may have picked up most of these and given you some haggling room on the price.
get some more advice off hear, fix the key things (engine mounts, steering bush, rad and discs) then slowly improve the other things with time, I think everyones S's are on going projects!
Radiator re-cores are expensive, but there was a nice rad for sale on ebay for £50 and probably 1hr to fit at home.
Roof seals and dropping doors are S problems, roof seals can be sorted fairly easilly by most people for under £50. If the soft top fabric is coming away that can be expensive to put right, again put it to the back of list if it doesn't look bad and isn't leaking
The other big job is the engine mounts sagging causing clearance problem with sump and exhaust and roll bar. The mounts are about £10 each, but I can't advise whether its an engine out to change them.
Discs are cheap and easy to change, about £30 a pair
The steering bush going should'nt cause a accident as the wheel is still connected to the rack, it will cause play in the column (wiggling the wheel left to right) but the column is secured by other rigid means, if it is the standard ford part that is gone it is replacable if not a mod from a S2/S3 part can be done which are available.
My advise it get quotes to change the engine mounts, or make friends with a fellow s owner who has the skills and time to do this and buy them lots of beer. This is the big job and the only one the last owner may have warned you about if they were aware
It looks like you have a lovely S1 that doesn't have any of the big issues (chassis, trailing arms). The steering bush and any problems with the discs are the only things an MOT should have picked up. A specialist inspection may have picked up most of these and given you some haggling room on the price.
get some more advice off hear, fix the key things (engine mounts, steering bush, rad and discs) then slowly improve the other things with time, I think everyones S's are on going projects!
TonupS2 said:
Pierce I think you are in shock mate. Stand back and have a look at what you can live with for the time being. A car of this age is always going to be an ongoing project. As said above most of these things can be done yourself. The engine mounts are not expensive. There has been recent posts about using performance mounts because of the vacinity to the ARB. I don't think fitting new mounts is a massive job (somebody will be on soon to confirm). I believe the steering bush is available and again its not a massive job. I don't know about the doors but Adrian Venn should be able to advise you/give you a price to correct the problem.
Chin up the fun the car will give you is well worth the effort.
You're damn right I'm in shock!! Chin up the fun the car will give you is well worth the effort.
Edited by TonupS2 on Thursday 5th March 11:46
I thank you for all of your comments, has brought me back to earth a little. The biggest problem I face is that I'm the race car driver not the mechanic
I don't have a garage nor do I have any real experience of doing things other than changing bulbs and guessing what problems are! I wouldn't call myself a ponce but although I'd like to think of myself rolling up my sleeves on a Sunday afternoon and getting down and dirty with the Tiv, I've got to be honest to myself, it's not going to happen for some time.
So, I do appreciate I'll have to shell out more cash than everyone who does their DIY. I might be able to give the roof a go and I did buy a cover for the car so that can wait. As for the doors, they are already grounding out on the bodywork...they have already been raised...they are annoying me in a big way - enough to get a hacksaw and start surgery.
You are all right about it not being driven enough - that's not my fault and I was driving it everyday until the clutch stopped working. I had a service booked in but I suppose I might be grateful I didn't keep driving for another two weeks.
It is a well known Specialist. Can I say the name? I don't know...
My father knows a fair bit about cars but considering he thinks I'm off my head for buying it, to go cap in hand begging for advice isn't really my style - he might gloat inside
Saying this, I'm sure we'll be going through my options over a dinner soon but he'll be in favour of getting rid of it. It pains me to say it, but he's been right many times in the past!I'm making some calls at lunch time. If I go through with all the work, I won't be selling it for the rest of my life...
mikea4tdi said:
I think you have had a huge quote, i guess by someone who isn't a specialist.
Radiator re-cores are expensive, but there was a nice rad for sale on ebay for £50 and probably 1hr to fit at home.
Roof seals and dropping doors are S problems, roof seals can be sorted fairly easilly by most people for under £50. If the soft top fabric is coming away that can be expensive to put right, again put it to the back of list if it doesn't look bad and isn't leaking
The other big job is the engine mounts sagging causing clearance problem with sump and exhaust and roll bar. The mounts are about £10 each, but I can't advise whether its an engine out to change them.
Discs are cheap and easy to change, about £30 a pair
The steering bush going should'nt cause a accident as the wheel is still connected to the rack, it will cause play in the column (wiggling the wheel left to right) but the column is secured by other rigid means, if it is the standard ford part that is gone it is replacable if not a mod from a S2/S3 part can be done which are available.
My advise it get quotes to change the engine mounts, or make friends with a fellow s owner who has the skills and time to do this and buy them lots of beer. This is the big job and the only one the last owner may have warned you about if they were aware
It looks like you have a lovely S1 that doesn't have any of the big issues (chassis, trailing arms). The steering bush and any problems with the discs are the only things an MOT should have picked up. A specialist inspection may have picked up most of these and given you some haggling room on the price.
get some more advice off hear, fix the key things (engine mounts, steering bush, rad and discs) then slowly improve the other things with time, I think everyones S's are on going projects!
Just read this after my post - quality information, thank you! You lot have really picked me up this morning.Radiator re-cores are expensive, but there was a nice rad for sale on ebay for £50 and probably 1hr to fit at home.
Roof seals and dropping doors are S problems, roof seals can be sorted fairly easilly by most people for under £50. If the soft top fabric is coming away that can be expensive to put right, again put it to the back of list if it doesn't look bad and isn't leaking
The other big job is the engine mounts sagging causing clearance problem with sump and exhaust and roll bar. The mounts are about £10 each, but I can't advise whether its an engine out to change them.
Discs are cheap and easy to change, about £30 a pair
The steering bush going should'nt cause a accident as the wheel is still connected to the rack, it will cause play in the column (wiggling the wheel left to right) but the column is secured by other rigid means, if it is the standard ford part that is gone it is replacable if not a mod from a S2/S3 part can be done which are available.
My advise it get quotes to change the engine mounts, or make friends with a fellow s owner who has the skills and time to do this and buy them lots of beer. This is the big job and the only one the last owner may have warned you about if they were aware
It looks like you have a lovely S1 that doesn't have any of the big issues (chassis, trailing arms). The steering bush and any problems with the discs are the only things an MOT should have picked up. A specialist inspection may have picked up most of these and given you some haggling room on the price.
get some more advice off hear, fix the key things (engine mounts, steering bush, rad and discs) then slowly improve the other things with time, I think everyones S's are on going projects!
Thanks guys,
Pierce
Hi
It's a shame that you are in this position but from your post I don't think things are quite as bad as the garage is making out. If you are at all handy with a set of spanners then most of the the things on your list you could do yourself.
Is this at a specialist who knows anything about the S series? I suspect not from this particular item
The door and roof seals you can pick up from any trimming supplier and they are simple to replace.
The radiator recore should cost about £100 from any decent radiator repairer
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
I would go back through your list - identify the items that are critical to safety, work out what you can do yourself and what you want the garage to do and then sit down and talk it through with them.
It's a shame that you are in this position but from your post I don't think things are quite as bad as the garage is making out. If you are at all handy with a set of spanners then most of the the things on your list you could do yourself.
Is this at a specialist who knows anything about the S series? I suspect not from this particular item
The Stiglet said:
Lower steering column bush perished, serious issue as dangerous to drive. No original parts for this, will require fabrication of parts = 6 hrs labour charge.
The bulkhead bearing I presume they are referring to is a fairly common problem and available new £18.50 - http://www.tvrcarparts.co.uk/pages/partdetail.asp?...The door and roof seals you can pick up from any trimming supplier and they are simple to replace.
The radiator recore should cost about £100 from any decent radiator repairer
The Stiglet said:
Doors, maximum uptake on adjusters done, still bottoms out on sills - can only be fixed by serious bodywork fabrication. Bodywork has moved with age, asked for rough quote a couple of grand at a guess.
Again this a fairly common problem - the door hinge pins sit in plastic bushes that wear over time and need to be replaced. As a part I think they are unobtainable new but it is just a of plastic bar with a hole drilled through. I bit of research on the size and suitable material, it would not be difficult to get some made up for a few pounds. Getting the doors off to replace the bushes is a complete bugger but I struggle to believe that serious bodywork fabrication is required. There are many people on here that have done it themselves, here are a couple of links to some threads.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
The Stiglet said:
Engine mounting collapsed, engine out.
Sump 1 mm away from anti-roll bar.
Exhaust rubbing on sump.
The second two items are a result of the first - although the sump to AR bar gap was never very large. I don't think the engine has to come all the way out to replace the mount and again is a straight forward enough task. Made easier on the S because you can remove the whole front end to give you access.Sump 1 mm away from anti-roll bar.
Exhaust rubbing on sump.
I would go back through your list - identify the items that are critical to safety, work out what you can do yourself and what you want the garage to do and then sit down and talk it through with them.
Pierce - I think most things have already been said but many of the things are a minor irritant not a show stopper.
Get a post on your regional forum asking for help - offer free bacon butties and lots of tea and I'm sure you'll get some offers of people prepared to come round. Thats the best bit about TVR ownership.
Oh and that radiator mentioned above on ebay - its not any more
Get a post on your regional forum asking for help - offer free bacon butties and lots of tea and I'm sure you'll get some offers of people prepared to come round. Thats the best bit about TVR ownership.
Oh and that radiator mentioned above on ebay - its not any more
Pierce,
sorry to hear this BUT every cloud and all that...........
Nothing to add to the above : all really sound advice. It must have come as a big shock. The best part about the S series is it's simplicity and easy parts availability. The quote obviously includes sorting everything out with the associated labour charges(BIG!)
Many of these issues can be sorted at a later stage. I would focus in on the areas that a) stop the car being driven and b) will come up for examination in the next MOT.
Esentially, the clutch hydraulics, brake discs and the steering column bush.
This will get you going (and enjoying the car) again. For not tooooo much cash.
If at all practicable, you can always book the car in for it's next MOT at the garage where it was tested last time. It's probably only covered a few miles since that test was conducted. If at all possible, get the same tester to conduct the MOT. You ever know, he might recognise the car!
The MASSIVE blessing in all of this is that your chassis has been given pretty much a clean bill of health. This is, by far and away, the biggest worry with an S and the only reason to give up on one - many here have salvaged their chassis from terrible states! Sounds like you've bought a great car with a few issues so you need to build up some trust in the car and see some return on your investment in terms of fun....it WILL happen. Big bills (or big quotes, rather) are all part of the Old Car Experience - it all adds to the drama and the unique feeling that they can give when everything comes together.
Good luck and keep us posted.
sorry to hear this BUT every cloud and all that...........
Nothing to add to the above : all really sound advice. It must have come as a big shock. The best part about the S series is it's simplicity and easy parts availability. The quote obviously includes sorting everything out with the associated labour charges(BIG!)
Many of these issues can be sorted at a later stage. I would focus in on the areas that a) stop the car being driven and b) will come up for examination in the next MOT.
Esentially, the clutch hydraulics, brake discs and the steering column bush.
This will get you going (and enjoying the car) again. For not tooooo much cash.
If at all practicable, you can always book the car in for it's next MOT at the garage where it was tested last time. It's probably only covered a few miles since that test was conducted. If at all possible, get the same tester to conduct the MOT. You ever know, he might recognise the car!
The MASSIVE blessing in all of this is that your chassis has been given pretty much a clean bill of health. This is, by far and away, the biggest worry with an S and the only reason to give up on one - many here have salvaged their chassis from terrible states! Sounds like you've bought a great car with a few issues so you need to build up some trust in the car and see some return on your investment in terms of fun....it WILL happen. Big bills (or big quotes, rather) are all part of the Old Car Experience - it all adds to the drama and the unique feeling that they can give when everything comes together.
Good luck and keep us posted.
My cars in a far worse condition than I wish it was. I thought about just getting it gone away with, but now I've thought it needs some love. So I'm getting all the stuff done, probably going to cost 2.5k but I'm not bothered because I know it'll be ten times better!
Cars ain't exactly my speciality, so I'm damned because I like TVRs. But hey I'm prepared to bite the bullet and get amongst it. Even if it involves lots of hours and money(...well there is a limit...)
I reckon all those jobs ain't as hard to fix as they sound, the good thing about the S series cars is that 90% of the jobs can be DIY jobs. Some may be harder than others, but all the parts are cheap to buy, it may be frustrating (I've been on the edge of selling mine till now - still may change may mind again
) and I also wish I bought a car that didn't want all this work, but hey you live and learn and someone has to do it. 2.5K is nothing compared to how much you get out of it. Engine mounts are pennies and can be replaced with engine in place and that will releeve all the other problems. I swear my engine had gone up an inch! Hehehe these cars are high maintenance but they are damn fun to drive. And cheap too. I reckon then you should take a breather for a bit and come back to it and try DIYing it.
neil240970 said:
Pierce,
sorry to hear this BUT every cloud and all that...........
Nothing to add to the above : all really sound advice. It must have come as a big shock. The best part about the S series is it's simplicity and easy parts availability. The quote obviously includes sorting everything out with the associated labour charges(BIG!)
Many of these issues can be sorted at a later stage. I would focus in on the areas that a) stop the car being driven and b) will come up for examination in the next MOT.
Esentially, the clutch hydraulics, brake discs and the steering column bush.
This will get you going (and enjoying the car) again. For not tooooo much cash.
If at all practicable, you can always book the car in for it's next MOT at the garage where it was tested last time. It's probably only covered a few miles since that test was conducted. If at all possible, get the same tester to conduct the MOT. You ever know, he might recognise the car!
The MASSIVE blessing in all of this is that your chassis has been given pretty much a clean bill of health. This is, by far and away, the biggest worry with an S and the only reason to give up on one - many here have salvaged their chassis from terrible states! Sounds like you've bought a great car with a few issues so you need to build up some trust in the car and see some return on your investment in terms of fun....it WILL happen. Big bills (or big quotes, rather) are all part of the Old Car Experience - it all adds to the drama and the unique feeling that they can give when everything comes together.
Good luck and keep us posted.
All diy and i doubt it would cost £200 to do yourself,the rest is as and when type stuff,sorry to hear this BUT every cloud and all that...........
Nothing to add to the above : all really sound advice. It must have come as a big shock. The best part about the S series is it's simplicity and easy parts availability. The quote obviously includes sorting everything out with the associated labour charges(BIG!)
Many of these issues can be sorted at a later stage. I would focus in on the areas that a) stop the car being driven and b) will come up for examination in the next MOT.
Esentially, the clutch hydraulics, brake discs and the steering column bush.
This will get you going (and enjoying the car) again. For not tooooo much cash.
If at all practicable, you can always book the car in for it's next MOT at the garage where it was tested last time. It's probably only covered a few miles since that test was conducted. If at all possible, get the same tester to conduct the MOT. You ever know, he might recognise the car!
The MASSIVE blessing in all of this is that your chassis has been given pretty much a clean bill of health. This is, by far and away, the biggest worry with an S and the only reason to give up on one - many here have salvaged their chassis from terrible states! Sounds like you've bought a great car with a few issues so you need to build up some trust in the car and see some return on your investment in terms of fun....it WILL happen. Big bills (or big quotes, rather) are all part of the Old Car Experience - it all adds to the drama and the unique feeling that they can give when everything comes together.
Good luck and keep us posted.
so what if the roof leaks most of the time its roof of
Doors rubbing a pig to do, but diy
Chassis paint messy but cheap if you DIY probably £30
Engine mounts,i dont think its engine out, but ready to be corrected
Engine mounts can be changed without removing the engine,You will require
Wheel ramps, trolley jack, blocks of wood, 17mm Ratchet ring spanner and of course new engine mountings.
It will take about two hours to complete the job at home.
Run the car up the ramps, chock the wheels and pull the handbrake full on,
disconect the battery.Loosen the four nuts that hold the mountings in place,this is the longest part too the job. Place the trolley jack under the sump (using a thick block of wood) and slowly raise the engine checking the engine is not sticking on the chassis or body.
From above rock the engine over to one side to remove the old mounting
(check for any large washers fitted between the mounting and the rubber bush)and refit the new mounting c?w any washers. Repeat on the other side.
Slowly lower the engine back into place, Check the mounting have settled into place and replace the nuts and washers as tight as possible. Reconect the battery, remove the chocks and away you go.
Wheel ramps, trolley jack, blocks of wood, 17mm Ratchet ring spanner and of course new engine mountings.
It will take about two hours to complete the job at home.
Run the car up the ramps, chock the wheels and pull the handbrake full on,
disconect the battery.Loosen the four nuts that hold the mountings in place,this is the longest part too the job. Place the trolley jack under the sump (using a thick block of wood) and slowly raise the engine checking the engine is not sticking on the chassis or body.
From above rock the engine over to one side to remove the old mounting
(check for any large washers fitted between the mounting and the rubber bush)and refit the new mounting c?w any washers. Repeat on the other side.
Slowly lower the engine back into place, Check the mounting have settled into place and replace the nuts and washers as tight as possible. Reconect the battery, remove the chocks and away you go.
Pierce
If he's good at things mechanical I would ask your dad, rather than inwardly gloating I think he would be secretly pleased to help you. Oh and the words "mountain and molehills" apply to your original post, seriously, the items you have listed are not major and a lot of them are ongoing projecty type things, all of us have an ongoing project list. So fix the biggies and enjoy your car this year, save the niceties for the winter.
If he's good at things mechanical I would ask your dad, rather than inwardly gloating I think he would be secretly pleased to help you. Oh and the words "mountain and molehills" apply to your original post, seriously, the items you have listed are not major and a lot of them are ongoing projecty type things, all of us have an ongoing project list. So fix the biggies and enjoy your car this year, save the niceties for the winter.
DON'T PANIC
Get some beer down you and breath come on deep breaths now. Calm down.
Don't try and breath whilst drinking this can lead to drowning.
Do you know this garage ? Have you had work done there before ? It looks alot like these guys are taking you for a ride. £2500 for the work quoted is scandalous especially if it doesn’t cover the engine removal how much do they want for this £10K. Don't go back there ask the forum for a good garage in your area and consider doing some of the work yourself.
Live with the doors I'm on my 3rd TVR and they all do it. Ask the forum about companies that provide a rehanging service there are some about that know what they are doing and will refurb the door rather than simply adjusting them which never works.
Replacing the roof rubber is a doddle. You just need to get some strong glue (perhaps best not to do the deep breathing excercises here) I'm sure the seals are readily available. All S roofs leak so if you can put up with it then do so. My passenger side does slightly but that doesn't bother me.
I did my engine mounts without removing engine. Looks like after this job has been done maybe the clearence on the sump, anti roll, and exhaust will be rectified.
Not done a steering column bush yet but looks like it's a do able job again probably a lot of cursing and swearing from the footwell and a sore back for a while. I’m sure I’ve seen bushes available. Anyone done this job where did you get the bush from ?
How dangerous is it to drive with a worn bush ?
Are you calm yet get some more beers down you and breath just remember not to do this standing next to that strong glue (have to put this bit in for health and safety)
Is the clutch hydraulics the problem here or the clutch as well. If it's the clutch then I'm afraid that is an engine out(keep breathing ) if just hydraulics this is a do able job a little bit of swearing as you work in the footwell doing the master cylinder replacement but on the whole a days work. I'd replace the pipework whilst you are at it.
Had my S1 radiator done at a local workshop they did a good job it was £80 (albeit 12 years ago now). Removal and refitting is easy when the bonnet is removed.
Discs can’t leak. Do they mean the brake cables, or are they referring to the rear drums ? Asumming here you don’t have discs fitted to the back. What S is this S1 / S2/ S3/S4 ??? This needs looking at before you drive the car again as there maybe a safety issue here. Are you loosing brake fluid are the brake feeling spongy ? Take the wheels off and inspect each corner not just the one they stated, a good clean up with some Gunk should show you what the problem is. Might be the flexible hoses that have split.
Yes the engine can leak oil they shouldn’t really. This is most probably around the sump gasket. I think mine does slightly. Are you having to top up more than usual?
As for the chassis well as long as there no holes these are generally in poor looking condition. My chassis needs a fair amount of work but unless they’ve had some restoration work during it’s lifetime it’s bound to be suffering. This is normal so don’t worry about it. However check the chassis to ensure no real problems if it’s just surface rust and flaky powder coating then this can be rectified with a tin of rust treatment, hammerite, and a wire brush. Oh and the now customary cursing and swearing. My neighbnours are well use to it by now. Infact they’ve just put there house on the market can’t think why.
Are you sure the car has only been driven 150 miles a year. My service record shows a similar kind of pattern but low a behold a few months after I bought the car I noticed the mileometer was sticking every now and then it's now stuck fast. I reckon mine has probably done much more mileage again bought as seen so no recourse but I was kinda lucky as the condition of the car was good.
Sorry you didn’t want to hear that did you. More drink at this point is required.
OK I haven’t seen your car but a few weekends worth of work and a couple of £100 should see the car into better shape.
Where abouts are you ? Maybe persuaded to help if you are close by I have an inspection pit in the garage which makes certain jobs alot easier. If you are close then you can bring it over and you can see what shape it's in underneath.
Remember DON’T PANIC and calm down more drink may still be required.
Get some beer down you and breath come on deep breaths now. Calm down.
Don't try and breath whilst drinking this can lead to drowning.
Do you know this garage ? Have you had work done there before ? It looks alot like these guys are taking you for a ride. £2500 for the work quoted is scandalous especially if it doesn’t cover the engine removal how much do they want for this £10K. Don't go back there ask the forum for a good garage in your area and consider doing some of the work yourself.
Live with the doors I'm on my 3rd TVR and they all do it. Ask the forum about companies that provide a rehanging service there are some about that know what they are doing and will refurb the door rather than simply adjusting them which never works.
Replacing the roof rubber is a doddle. You just need to get some strong glue (perhaps best not to do the deep breathing excercises here) I'm sure the seals are readily available. All S roofs leak so if you can put up with it then do so. My passenger side does slightly but that doesn't bother me.
I did my engine mounts without removing engine. Looks like after this job has been done maybe the clearence on the sump, anti roll, and exhaust will be rectified.
Not done a steering column bush yet but looks like it's a do able job again probably a lot of cursing and swearing from the footwell and a sore back for a while. I’m sure I’ve seen bushes available. Anyone done this job where did you get the bush from ?
How dangerous is it to drive with a worn bush ?
Are you calm yet get some more beers down you and breath just remember not to do this standing next to that strong glue (have to put this bit in for health and safety)
Is the clutch hydraulics the problem here or the clutch as well. If it's the clutch then I'm afraid that is an engine out(keep breathing
) if just hydraulics this is a do able job a little bit of swearing as you work in the footwell doing the master cylinder replacement but on the whole a days work. I'd replace the pipework whilst you are at it.Had my S1 radiator done at a local workshop they did a good job it was £80 (albeit 12 years ago now). Removal and refitting is easy when the bonnet is removed.
Discs can’t leak. Do they mean the brake cables, or are they referring to the rear drums ? Asumming here you don’t have discs fitted to the back. What S is this S1 / S2/ S3/S4 ??? This needs looking at before you drive the car again as there maybe a safety issue here. Are you loosing brake fluid are the brake feeling spongy ? Take the wheels off and inspect each corner not just the one they stated, a good clean up with some Gunk should show you what the problem is. Might be the flexible hoses that have split.
Yes the engine can leak oil they shouldn’t really. This is most probably around the sump gasket. I think mine does slightly. Are you having to top up more than usual?
As for the chassis well as long as there no holes these are generally in poor looking condition. My chassis needs a fair amount of work but unless they’ve had some restoration work during it’s lifetime it’s bound to be suffering. This is normal so don’t worry about it. However check the chassis to ensure no real problems if it’s just surface rust and flaky powder coating then this can be rectified with a tin of rust treatment, hammerite, and a wire brush. Oh and the now customary cursing and swearing. My neighbnours are well use to it by now. Infact they’ve just put there house on the market can’t think why.
Are you sure the car has only been driven 150 miles a year. My service record shows a similar kind of pattern but low a behold a few months after I bought the car I noticed the mileometer was sticking every now and then it's now stuck fast. I reckon mine has probably done much more mileage again bought as seen so no recourse but I was kinda lucky as the condition of the car was good.
Sorry you didn’t want to hear that did you. More drink at this point is required.
OK I haven’t seen your car but a few weekends worth of work and a couple of £100 should see the car into better shape.
Where abouts are you ? Maybe persuaded to help if you are close by I have an inspection pit in the garage which makes certain jobs alot easier. If you are close then you can bring it over and you can see what shape it's in underneath.
Remember DON’T PANIC and calm down more drink may still be required.
Edited by TVRMadPaul on Saturday 14th March 11:05
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff