Nikkor 80-400 VR - semi-manual focus?
Discussion
I've had an 80-400VR for a few years now but never really used it very often. I'm off on a Kenyan safari later this year and planned to get a bit of practice in with the lens so I'm a bit more proficient at working around its shortcomings.
The chief issue I have with it is focus speed, so I figured on manually focusing to get it roughly right first then letting the AF do the last bit, then maybe tweak manually again.
The lens has a rotating collar that goes L-M-------A-L
The "L" I believe stands for locked, and the "M" and "A" stand for manual or auto. I thought with M set but not locked it would manually focus but the AF would still work - seems I'm wrong.
Does anyone who owns this lens know if there is a way of keeping AF activated but also being able to manually focus?
The chief issue I have with it is focus speed, so I figured on manually focusing to get it roughly right first then letting the AF do the last bit, then maybe tweak manually again.
The lens has a rotating collar that goes L-M-------A-L
The "L" I believe stands for locked, and the "M" and "A" stand for manual or auto. I thought with M set but not locked it would manually focus but the AF would still work - seems I'm wrong.
Does anyone who owns this lens know if there is a way of keeping AF activated but also being able to manually focus?
I've got one which I've just put on the classifieds 
From memory there is a switch that controls the AF which is the M -- A / Lock thing but IIRC the lock function just stops the collar being accidentally rotated, then there's a further switch that is marked Limit / Full or similar. Limit does exactly that and limits the AF to either the first or second half of the AF range thus minimising the hunting the lens sometimes does.
Phil.
From memory there is a switch that controls the AF which is the M -- A / Lock thing but IIRC the lock function just stops the collar being accidentally rotated, then there's a further switch that is marked Limit / Full or similar. Limit does exactly that and limits the AF to either the first or second half of the AF range thus minimising the hunting the lens sometimes does.
Phil.
Edited by PJLarge on Thursday 5th February 14:30
Thanks Phil - I figured the limit switch would come in handy, I was just hoping I could give the AF an initial helping hand to speed it up.
I'm starting to wonder if I'd be better off shifting it and getting a 70-200 f/2.8 and a teleconverter. Trouble is the Sigma doesn't have VR and the Nikkor costs a fortune...
I'm starting to wonder if I'd be better off shifting it and getting a 70-200 f/2.8 and a teleconverter. Trouble is the Sigma doesn't have VR and the Nikkor costs a fortune...
I can't really offer any advice as to whether you should sell yours or not. I'm selling mine as I hardly use it *but* it's a damn good lens once you learn how to use it. I'm not sure you'd get the same quality from a Sigma and a converter. I guess you have the manual from your lens? If not I can always scan mine for you or alternatively I'm sure it'll be online?
Manual on nikons website?
If you go for the new Sigma 70-200 F2.8 (as I have), get a sigma TC to go with it. I have a Kenro (Pro 300 DG?) 2x TC and a older Tamron 1.4x TC, and it rarely manages to lock focus with these, hunting constantly, even in good light (on a Nikon D300). I assume the sigma TCs are a lot better, and communicate better. Wasn't a prob with the kenro on my old Nikkor 80-200 F2.8 AF-D.
If you go for the new Sigma 70-200 F2.8 (as I have), get a sigma TC to go with it. I have a Kenro (Pro 300 DG?) 2x TC and a older Tamron 1.4x TC, and it rarely manages to lock focus with these, hunting constantly, even in good light (on a Nikon D300). I assume the sigma TCs are a lot better, and communicate better. Wasn't a prob with the kenro on my old Nikkor 80-200 F2.8 AF-D.
The only thing I'd say is it's a very useful range for a safari. I took the 70-200 and it's great for lots of animals you get close to, but some you'll never get that close to and the 400mm end would come in handy. You don't want to be swapping converters in and out all the time.
I agree the AF can be ponderous so you may miss that shot of a cheetah sprinting after game, on the other hand the extra reach over the 70-200 will enable you to get right in close for that portrait of a cheetah sitting on a termite mound overlooking the savannah. Hopefully you'll be lucky enough to see both types of activity
If only Nikon would update this with AFS it would be a great travel lens.
If you can have two bodies, one with the long zoom and one with a short zoom on so that you're not changing lenses all the time
Just my 2p worth
Chris
I agree the AF can be ponderous so you may miss that shot of a cheetah sprinting after game, on the other hand the extra reach over the 70-200 will enable you to get right in close for that portrait of a cheetah sitting on a termite mound overlooking the savannah. Hopefully you'll be lucky enough to see both types of activity
If only Nikon would update this with AFS it would be a great travel lens.
If you can have two bodies, one with the long zoom and one with a short zoom on so that you're not changing lenses all the time
Just my 2p worth
Chris
dcw@pr said:
hi ben - glad to see you are making good use of it
Hi Dave! I've had some great results out of the 80-400 but it just doesn't suit most of my photography so I've never really had a chance to learn it's strengths and work around the weaknesses - hence this thread really!
I got on reasonably well with it at Longleat and at the zoo
This one was through rain covered glass.
What?
I reckon I'll stick with the 80-400, and try to borrow another body so I can have both it and the 28-70 available. A bit of practice between now and when I go should get me used to it.
In the meantime I'm trying to find a Leica M6 but that's a different story altogether!
Edited by _dobbo_ on Thursday 5th February 18:42
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