Clutch release bearing
Clutch release bearing
Author
Discussion

RussF

Original Poster:

139 posts

251 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
Could someone possibly help and describe which bits below go in what order to attach the release bearing to the clutch pressure plate. Also, has anyone fitted one of those hydraulic "pull" type release bearings instead of the fork and slave?

Thanks


GTRCLIVE

4,193 posts

312 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
Pass the ones I had always came attached to the pressure plate

dilbert

7,741 posts

260 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
RussF said:
Could someone possibly help and describe which bits below go in what order to attach the release bearing to the clutch pressure plate. Also, has anyone fitted one of those hydraulic "pull" type release bearings instead of the fork and slave?

Thanks

Part B & C go on the release bearing first, against the shoulder. Then part A goes on the release bearing with the fingers pushing into the corner of the shoulder against B & C on the release bearing. Then the clutch spring gets sandwiched between part A and part E, with the release bearing poking through the middle. The detent on part E sits between the fingers of the clutch spring (not shown).

Squeeze part A so that the shallow groove in the release bearing shows through part E. Part D drops into the shallow groove. When you release the pressure on the spring (A) part D is captive in the groove and the whole thing should stay together.

You can do the squeeze easily by putting the clutch and release bearing on the floor. The release bearing goes underneath, with the clutch on top. Put your knees on the driving face of the clutch, and drop the retaining ring into place.

Part F attaches inside the bellhousing, and it should be a direct replacement for the identical part that is already there.

Use your clutch alignment tool to line up the clutch driven plate on the flywheel, and bolt it up.

When you bring the engine and gearbox together, the clutch fork should already be installed in the bell housing, on the pivot pin.

Bring the engine and gearbox together, and before they are completely together, remove the clutch fork pivot pin, and twist the release bearing to bring the fork and the release bearing into engagement. Replace the clutch fork pivot. Close the gap between the engine and gearbox, and do the bolts up.

Re attach the clutch slave.

If you can test the clutch action before you put the engine and gearbox back into the car.

someone said:
One Ring to rule them all, One Ring to find them,
One Ring to bring them all and in the darkness bind them
hehe

Edited to correct minor observational error!!!

Edited by dilbert on Wednesday 28th January 15:27

RussF

Original Poster:

139 posts

251 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
Thats great. Thanks dilbert. Job done, me thinks!

thumbup







dilbert

7,741 posts

260 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
Yeah that looks like it!

rduart

113 posts

238 months

Wednesday 28th January 2009
quotequote all
It looks like you already have it. I found this link sometime ago when I was doing mine.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_clutc...

Randy

spatz

1,783 posts

215 months

Friday 30th January 2009
quotequote all
there is currently such a bearing on sale here in germnay the part nr. is 930.116.081.11
would that the one to fit a G50 setup ?

dilbert

7,741 posts

260 months

Friday 30th January 2009
quotequote all
spatz said:
there is currently such a bearing on sale here in germnay the part nr. is 930.116.081.11
would that the one to fit a G50 setup ?
I think that one is for the earlier 915 transmission, (4sp) with cable operation.

Edited by dilbert on Friday 30th January 16:13