Rear caliper advise req
Discussion
Whilst removing my broken lower wishbone on the rear of the Griff today,i decided to replace the rear pads,lifted the caliper away from the disc,and tried to rewind the piston into the caliper,turned easy enough,but did not retract...... i slackened the hand brake cable right off and even removed the cable end from the caliper,just in case there was some pressure holding the piston out...i will say i was not using the reccomended tool,but an alternative method as listed in the bible... is it possible that its just because there was no pressure exerted on the piston as when the correct tool is used? do i need to slacken off the brake bleed nipple whilst im doing this as ive seen that mentioned regarding some ford calipers?..... ill pop to halfords tommorrow to purchase a proper wind back tool,any prefered make?
Both sides are R/H thread i take it? some later ford calipers have L/H and R/H depending on which side
Both sides are R/H thread i take it? some later ford calipers have L/H and R/H depending on which side
Edited by rigga on Wednesday 14th January 17:06
rigga said:
Whilst removing my broken lower wishbone on the rear of the Griff today,i decided to replace the rear pads,lifted the caliper away from the disc,and tried to rewind the piston into the caliper,turned easy enough,but did not retract...... i slackened the hand brake cable right off and even removed the cable end from the caliper,just in case there was some pressure holding the piston out...i will say i was not using the reccomended tool,but an alternative method as listed in the bible... is it possible that its just because there was no pressure exerted on the piston as when the correct tool is used? do i need to slacken off the brake bleed nipple whilst im doing this as ive seen that mentioned regarding some ford calipers?..... ill pop to halfords tommorrow to purchase a proper wind back tool,any prefered make?
Both sides are R/H thread i take it? some later ford calipers have L/H and R/H depending on which side
you need a caliper re-set tool, piston needs to be pushed and turned at same time, you can sometimes manage it with a flat bladed screw driver located in one of the slots put pressure on driver and turn it clockwise its easier if you have the caliper held on with one bolt and pulled away from disc this will suport caliper as yo apply pressure. make sure handbrake fully wound off when new pads in and caliper fitted pump brake pedal a few times to re-set adjuster then adjust up hanbrake. Both sides are R/H thread i take it? some later ford calipers have L/H and R/H depending on which side
Edited by rigga on Wednesday 14th January 17:06
mike v
Barkychoc said:
Someone told me to use the tightening tool for an angle grinder disc and push at the same time - worked a treat for me.
Thats actually the exact method i used.... but alas no good,possibly not able to put enough pressure on the piston and turn it at the same time,ill get a wind back tool and try again.Got one today from halfords,£20..... will have a go tomorrow if my lower wishbone has been repaired when i go into work tonight..... someone else mentioned last night a G clamp plus my method of turning would have worked,but as i would have have to purchase one of those,i might have well have got the proper tool......
davido140 said:
I just took the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and pushed them back with my thumbs!
Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
just pushing piston back on the rear brakes wont re-set the self adjuster which needs to be done especially with new pads, you can push as hard as you can with a g clamp and resevoir cap off but to get the piston to fully retract into caliper it must be turned as well.Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
mike v
mv automotive said:
davido140 said:
I just took the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and pushed them back with my thumbs!
Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
just pushing piston back on the rear brakes wont re-set the self adjuster which needs to be done especially with new pads, you can push as hard as you can with a g clamp and resevoir cap off but to get the piston to fully retract into caliper it must be turned as well.Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
mike v

wanders off to google "self adjuster"

davido140 said:
mv automotive said:
davido140 said:
I just took the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and pushed them back with my thumbs!
Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
just pushing piston back on the rear brakes wont re-set the self adjuster which needs to be done especially with new pads, you can push as hard as you can with a g clamp and resevoir cap off but to get the piston to fully retract into caliper it must be turned as well.Have I got the weediest brakes ever, strongest thumbs ever, or the wrong method?
I bled them afterwards as I always do when tinkering with brakes...
mike v

wanders off to google "self adjuster"

its the front you can get away with that method 
Holy thread ressurection!
Any know where I can get a universal tool/set at a decent price?
Found this
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/71972/Van-Car-Access...
Bit steep at nearly £60 + delivery!
I need it guaranteed to be delivered before the weekend so flea-bay is a non starter!
Cheers
Dave
Any know where I can get a universal tool/set at a decent price?
Found this
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/71972/Van-Car-Access...
Bit steep at nearly £60 + delivery!
I need it guaranteed to be delivered before the weekend so flea-bay is a non starter!
Cheers
Dave
Here you go http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=9...
and https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Automotive_tools/b...
and https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Automotive_tools/b...Edited by Pushrod-Power on Wednesday 4th March 11:24
Pushrod-Power said:
Here you go http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=9...
and https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Automotive_tools/b...
Thanks,
and https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Automotive_tools/b...Edited by Pushrod-Power on Wednesday 4th March 11:24
I was a bit evil and cross posted this to general gassing,
Turns out halfords was best at £21 for a pretty good quality tool!
Thanks
Dave
Tool is way easier but it is entirely possible wihtout...as I've struggled with this in the past though, I've frequently wondered what the internal mechanism is. Is the piston and cylinder it locates in threaded in some way (the piston doesn't seem to turn on the way out) so I'm wondering why it needs to to retract...?
Pupp said:
Tool is way easier but it is entirely possible wihtout...as I've struggled with this in the past though, I've frequently wondered what the internal mechanism is. Is the piston and cylinder it locates in threaded in some way (the piston doesn't seem to turn on the way out) so I'm wondering why it needs to to retract...?
I recently changed discs and pads and on one side I used a piece of wood with 2 nails in the end. This worked fine on one side but although I could turn the piston it just wouldnt retract on the other side. I then had to go and get the correct tool for around £16 which was 15 miles away and was then very easy. I wondered why it needed so much turning . as you say it doesnt turn on the way out.Woo5ie
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£12-15 and no cursing, cut knuckles or rounded off brake pistons.