V8 Wheel Track Width
Discussion
In the following thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Can anyone think why this wouldn't work, also is the V8 body width at the rear arches the same as the V6 ?
Front arms would have to be fabricated wider as well presumably so again is the V8 bonnet width the same at the arches??
Lots of questions I know but hey that's why we come on here.
Added: all the welding work on the Suspension parts will done by a coded welder, I can weld but some things are best left to the experts.
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Can anyone think why this wouldn't work, also is the V8 body width at the rear arches the same as the V6 ?
Front arms would have to be fabricated wider as well presumably so again is the V8 bonnet width the same at the arches??
Lots of questions I know but hey that's why we come on here.
Added: all the welding work on the Suspension parts will done by a coded welder, I can weld but some things are best left to the experts.
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Sunday 28th December 10:30
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Sunday 28th December 10:31
clarenceboddiger said:
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Ken, if I have read your thread right then wouln't your drive shafts be too short ? and also wouldn't you then also need a longer hand brake cable and also a longer brake pipe that runs along the top of the bottom arms ?Cheers.....Tony..
tozerman said:
clarenceboddiger said:
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Ken, if I have read your thread right then wouln't your drive shafts be too short ? and also wouldn't you then also need a longer hand brake cable and also a longer brake pipe that runs along the top of the bottom arms ?Cheers.....Tony..
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 09:18
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 09:19
Ken I have been thinking back to when I put my car back together and I don't think making that flange thicker will work. The driveshaft has a large diameter joint (that you can see in the photo below) before the shaft that passes through the wheel bearing / hub - and I think if you make the flange thicker the driveshaft will foul on the inside of the trailing arm if that makes sense its already pretty close to the trailing arm as it is.
This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.

This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.

Hi Chris
I follow your logic, but I was thinking that hole gave clearance for the driveshaft to go through??? Maybe Im wrong , if so its a non starter.
ps thats looking fantastic on the pic's, I've gotta get over and see this thing before its back on the road.
I follow your logic, but I was thinking that hole gave clearance for the driveshaft to go through??? Maybe Im wrong , if so its a non starter.
ps thats looking fantastic on the pic's, I've gotta get over and see this thing before its back on the road.
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 13:56
Here's the only pic I can find of the hole where the driveshaft goes through.
(and when I look back at these pics I realise how far the car has come on).
The hub bolts on the end with the 4 bolts and that has the wheel bearings in it.
The hole in the trailing arm only allows that narrower diameter bit on the end of the driveshaft to go fit in.

And here's a driveshaft pic I just nicked off ebay

(and when I look back at these pics I realise how far the car has come on).
The hub bolts on the end with the 4 bolts and that has the wheel bearings in it.
The hole in the trailing arm only allows that narrower diameter bit on the end of the driveshaft to go fit in.

And here's a driveshaft pic I just nicked off ebay

Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 29th December 14:26
looking through the classified there is an S FOR SALE with eibach 30mm wheel spacers fitted not quite the 40mm your looking for but may be an option might be worth a call for some info???as for the steering rack i think you could achieve the wider width just changing the trackrods for a longer pair un less you went the power steering route..
Edited by aero340 on Wednesday 31st December 09:57
Wheel spacers on the rear reduce wheel bearing life, as they introduce a (bigger) lever between the forces excerted on the wheel and the bearing. If the spacers are not too wide, the effect will not be disastrous. Spacers on the front however are worse: they also change the steering geometry as the distance between the pivot point and the point where the wheel touches the ground changes. This has a huge effect on the car's behaviour.
Barkychoc said:
Ken I have been thinking back to when I put my car back together and I don't think making that flange thicker will work. The driveshaft has a large diameter joint (that you can see in the photo below) before the shaft that passes through the wheel bearing / hub - and I think if you make the flange thicker the driveshaft will foul on the inside of the trailing arm if that makes sense its already pretty close to the trailing arm as it is.
This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.

Looks like a great job you did there from this pic. This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.

Just hope you remembered to do up the bottom Damper bolt?
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