Engine Pre-Oiling Tool
Discussion
Pretty much - easy to make also. I cant remeber now if its a slot in the end of the pump. If it is, get a large screwdriver from pound shop remove the handle and fit into an eletric drill.
If its a new engine, it will spin quickly until the oil pressure is reached and then (at least in my drill) go pretty slowly as its pumping it round. With the valve covers removed, you should see oil pooling in the top.
If its a new engine, it will spin quickly until the oil pressure is reached and then (at least in my drill) go pretty slowly as its pumping it round. With the valve covers removed, you should see oil pooling in the top.
Whilst it is possible to drive the oil pump with a rod or driver bit you will have difficulty getting up to pressure because there is an oilway that comes in at the side of the dizzy shaft. The tool you buy has a section of body that covers the oilway.
I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Whilst it is possible to drive the oil pump with a rod or driver bit you will have difficulty getting up to pressure because there is an oilway that comes in at the side of the dizzy shaft. The tool you buy has a section of body that covers the oilway.
I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
from that statement, extrapolating a bit, would it be posible to make one buy machining/removing the cam drive and distributor components from an old disy and then inserting that in a drill, assuming you had an old disy sitting on the shelf.I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
ezakimak said:
from that statement, extrapolating a bit, would it be posible to make one buy machining/removing the cam drive and distributor components from an old disy and then inserting that in a drill, assuming you had an old disy sitting on the shelf.
Yes, would work fine.Whilst we are on that subject I'm still looking for an old dizzy to chop up for my conversion to EDIS 8 ignition (where the dizzy is only required to drive the oil pump).
Steve
ChaChaChaaaaaaaaaaaan !!!!!!
Here is this piece of aerospatial engineering
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=...
Here is this piece of aerospatial engineering
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=...
Steve_D said:
Whilst it is possible to drive the oil pump with a rod or driver bit you will have difficulty getting up to pressure because there is an oilway that comes in at the side of the dizzy shaft. The tool you buy has a section of body that covers the oilway.
I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
Hmm - cant say that I noticed any oil squirting out in that area when I did mine. Certainly got good pressure without any problems. Does that apply to all blocks?I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
Cant even think where it would feed the dizzy - as there's no hole in the side of the housing from memory. And if it did it would leak into the dizzy no?
Edited by eliot on Tuesday 23 December 21:11
eliot said:
Steve_D said:
Whilst it is possible to drive the oil pump with a rod or driver bit you will have difficulty getting up to pressure because there is an oilway that comes in at the side of the dizzy shaft. The tool you buy has a section of body that covers the oilway.
I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
Hmm - cant say that I noticed any oil squirting out in that area when I did mine. Certainly got good pressure without any problems. Does that apply to all blocks?I have the tool which you would be welcome to borrow if you were local.
Steve
Cant even think where it would feed the dizzy - as there's no hole in the side of the housing from memory. And if it did it would leak into the dizzy no?
Also these words from another add.
"Everyone knows how important it is to prime the oil pump before starting up that newly rebuilt engine...right? Well, our Oil Pump Primers help get the job done right. They all feature a nonslip triangular drive tip for attaching a drill, as well as a black oxide coating for added durability. The Pro models have a top alignment collar. The Chevy tool also includes a bushing to pressurize the upper valve train. The Econo models consist of the oil pump drive shaft only."
John Lingenfelters book on the SBC also says "The distributor is lubricated via the left side oil galley."
Steve
Even in aftermarket blocks the hole Steve refers to is directly from the adjacent lifter bore. However you might be able to raise oil pressure just with a drive, depending on the type of lifter installed and its parked-position when you attempt to prime your motor.
For the extra couple of dollars the one with the blanking collar is well worth it...... IMHO!
For the extra couple of dollars the one with the blanking collar is well worth it...... IMHO!
V8 Vum said:
Bing totally thick on US engines, is this needed for the LS7? Mine has been standing for over a year, and I hope to have it ready to fire up in the next month or two, so knowing what to do before may save wear?
cheers
keith
They make pressure very quickly due to the modern pump but priming the oil galleries from the top, rear of the valley or using pressure somehow wouldn't be a bad idea. Then crank it with the plugs out and the injectors disconnected to get oil pressure.cheers
keith
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff