The need to jig
Discussion
Can anybody help me in the fact i need to find a company (pref in the south) to put my shell on a jig to get it straighted after saying hello to a big kurb in all that snow at the start of the year.
I've had so much conflicting advice from minispeed minisport my local body repair shop + others that i'm now a bit confused as to where to go next.
Can you straighten a shell with engine sub's and all wheels still attached?
I wanted to find someone who's done it before and has a jig for a mini not a universal one.
Its not badly bent, you can only see small differences in panel gaps (but this one was built by rover)
It just doesnt feel right now!!!
Oh and does anybody know of any cheap front sub-frames for injection minis?
Thanks for any help
>>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Wednesday 24th September 17:57
I've had so much conflicting advice from minispeed minisport my local body repair shop + others that i'm now a bit confused as to where to go next.
Can you straighten a shell with engine sub's and all wheels still attached?
I wanted to find someone who's done it before and has a jig for a mini not a universal one.
Its not badly bent, you can only see small differences in panel gaps (but this one was built by rover)
It just doesnt feel right now!!!
Oh and does anybody know of any cheap front sub-frames for injection minis?
Thanks for any help
>>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Wednesday 24th September 17:57
Have you tried Somerford Mini in Chippenham?
www.somerford-mini.co.uk
01249 721421
The fact that I know that number from memory says it all, doesn't it
www.somerford-mini.co.uk
01249 721421
The fact that I know that number from memory says it all, doesn't it
Somerford don't have a jig. He said a large bodyshop would have one but he also said that if it can't be repaired by changing panels, then it's beyond repair.
Having said that, he won't touch anything other than "proper" restorations - e.g. his approach to fixing my rusty scuttle corners was to replace the scuttle, A panels, wings and might as well do the front panel at the same time. £1500 the lot. My solution - 2 repair panels for £10 from Mini Spares plus a mate with a welder.
Having said that, he won't touch anything other than "proper" restorations - e.g. his approach to fixing my rusty scuttle corners was to replace the scuttle, A panels, wings and might as well do the front panel at the same time. £1500 the lot. My solution - 2 repair panels for £10 from Mini Spares plus a mate with a welder.
As Paul says get the wheel alignment checked by someone with the 4-wheel equipment. The suspension/subframe components are more easily damaged than the shell. Alternatively get the car on a flat surface and then, using a plumb-bob (the piece of string with a weight tied to one end), drop various points from the bodywork/suspension to the floor. Then check the diagonals to see if it is straight/square. Usually good enough when fitting a rear subframe to stop the car 'crabbing'.
The original workshop manuals (BMC/Rover) give you the critical dimensions for the sub-frame pick-ups. If you get the car up on a ramp all you need for these checks is a 20ft tape measure. So long as the tolerance on the dimensions is within +/- 0.25" diagonally you should be OK.
If you hit a curb you may well have bent the 'ears' on the front sub-frame onto which the front tie bars mount. I did this many years ago and we cured the problem by heating up the sub-frame locally, straightening out the ear, then welding a triangular stiffening plate onto each side. nowadays you can get adjustable length tie bars and get a good tyre shop to set up the front caster angles (3 deg +/- 0.5 deg).
Normally a bent shell is easy to see. The floor where the sub-frame attaches is where it will be bent and you can see this by just taking out the carpets.
You can always straighten out a Mini shell, so don't despair. Where do you live? If you are near Herts or Beds I'll be pleased to have a look for you. A really good Mini bodywork specialist is Chris Spennewyn in Hitchin. His number is 01462 711080. He rebuilds and restores many rally and other bent Minis and he always does all my bodywork on my rally cars. He owns about 5 Minis himself - a true enthusiast and always helpful with bodywork advice.
If you hit a curb you may well have bent the 'ears' on the front sub-frame onto which the front tie bars mount. I did this many years ago and we cured the problem by heating up the sub-frame locally, straightening out the ear, then welding a triangular stiffening plate onto each side. nowadays you can get adjustable length tie bars and get a good tyre shop to set up the front caster angles (3 deg +/- 0.5 deg).
Normally a bent shell is easy to see. The floor where the sub-frame attaches is where it will be bent and you can see this by just taking out the carpets.
You can always straighten out a Mini shell, so don't despair. Where do you live? If you are near Herts or Beds I'll be pleased to have a look for you. A really good Mini bodywork specialist is Chris Spennewyn in Hitchin. His number is 01462 711080. He rebuilds and restores many rally and other bent Minis and he always does all my bodywork on my rally cars. He owns about 5 Minis himself - a true enthusiast and always helpful with bodywork advice.
Thanks for all the replies ive had this is the best motor forum bar none!!!!
In answer to pauls Q. i hit the kerb with both nearside wheels, i ended up a little bit sideways
(ok allot)
in my effort to stop, using kadens breaking, caedens breaking Whatever.
The front took most of the impact, i was quite glad when i saw the alloy because it was mashed so i hopped that had taken all of the impact and not put any force into the subframe.
I have had a number of different people look at it, all who seem to think that the shell is bent.
The bulk-head around the nearside bottom mount looks pushed back a bit so that could be solved with a large hammer but the passenger door just dont close the same now.
I know the front suspension is all fine it is only the radius arm which bent but ill tell you since i've bent that arm it had no ill effect on the rear stability and it stopped rubbing on the arch so i may bend the other side next!!
Cooperman
Thanks for the phone number
I'm sure the tie bar ears are all fine because after the incident the off-side front couldnt turn full left without touching the front of the arch so i bought and fitted the adjustable tie bars just to get the wheel back as a temp repair.
I live in southend (No i'm not a bloody boy racer)
But am prepared to travel to get this done, i really dont want to get it done in just any old body repair shop, i work on a ind estate with about six body repair shops and it seems all the people from the seafront work here!!!
Hitchin is near Coventry isnt it?
Also do you know if Chris H fixes shells with all subs and wheels still attached?
I ask because after a long conversation with MiniSport about whether i should bring the shell stripped bear or with just the sub-frames still attached he said they can straighten the car without removing a damn thing, he said we can straighten the shell and sub-frames in one so long as there not to badly bent.
Which sounded great to me but its just a massive risk to take it up there for them to say "sorry mate we have got to strip it" then the labour charges go through the roof so i would have to take it home again strip it and take it back up there.
I guess Chris will say the same
Again thanks for all of your help so far and i apologise for the time it has taken me to reply
In answer to pauls Q. i hit the kerb with both nearside wheels, i ended up a little bit sideways
(ok allot)
in my effort to stop, using kadens breaking, caedens breaking Whatever.
The front took most of the impact, i was quite glad when i saw the alloy because it was mashed so i hopped that had taken all of the impact and not put any force into the subframe.
I have had a number of different people look at it, all who seem to think that the shell is bent.
The bulk-head around the nearside bottom mount looks pushed back a bit so that could be solved with a large hammer but the passenger door just dont close the same now.
I know the front suspension is all fine it is only the radius arm which bent but ill tell you since i've bent that arm it had no ill effect on the rear stability and it stopped rubbing on the arch so i may bend the other side next!!
Cooperman
Thanks for the phone number
I'm sure the tie bar ears are all fine because after the incident the off-side front couldnt turn full left without touching the front of the arch so i bought and fitted the adjustable tie bars just to get the wheel back as a temp repair.
I live in southend (No i'm not a bloody boy racer)
But am prepared to travel to get this done, i really dont want to get it done in just any old body repair shop, i work on a ind estate with about six body repair shops and it seems all the people from the seafront work here!!!
Hitchin is near Coventry isnt it?
Also do you know if Chris H fixes shells with all subs and wheels still attached?
I ask because after a long conversation with MiniSport about whether i should bring the shell stripped bear or with just the sub-frames still attached he said they can straighten the car without removing a damn thing, he said we can straighten the shell and sub-frames in one so long as there not to badly bent.
Which sounded great to me but its just a massive risk to take it up there for them to say "sorry mate we have got to strip it" then the labour charges go through the roof so i would have to take it home again strip it and take it back up there.
I guess Chris will say the same
Again thanks for all of your help so far and i apologise for the time it has taken me to reply
Hi Dave,
Hitchin is about 60 miles from Southend and it's an easy trip up the A127, around the M25 and just a little way up the A1.
No-one can say whether they can fix it with the sub-frame in without first having a really good look. In my mind Chris Spennewyn is the guy to ask. He even did the restoration work on AJB44B and 33EJB for British Motor Heritage. He also re-roofed my Cooper 'S' rally car when I rolled it a couple of years back.
Even if the sub-frame has to come out of yours, at least you will know that it is straight when it all goes back.
Chris' place in Hitchin is like a Mini Centre. Last weekend we had there a fully prepared 1971 rally 1275 GT, two late Rover Coopers, a mint Wolseley Hornet, a 1965 Morris 1275 'S', my 1964 rally car, an ex-works Cooper 'S' awaiting full restoration, a Mk 1 shell being prepared for historic rallying, and about 4 other Minis in varying states of repair/restoration inc. a 1963 Woody Traveller for which I am building a 1275 'S' Mk. 1 engine and gearbox.
I love building engines, but hate doing bodywork, so Chris does all mine, including my rally damage (well, no-one's perfect!).
Give him a call, Dave.
Hitchin is about 60 miles from Southend and it's an easy trip up the A127, around the M25 and just a little way up the A1.
No-one can say whether they can fix it with the sub-frame in without first having a really good look. In my mind Chris Spennewyn is the guy to ask. He even did the restoration work on AJB44B and 33EJB for British Motor Heritage. He also re-roofed my Cooper 'S' rally car when I rolled it a couple of years back.
Even if the sub-frame has to come out of yours, at least you will know that it is straight when it all goes back.
Chris' place in Hitchin is like a Mini Centre. Last weekend we had there a fully prepared 1971 rally 1275 GT, two late Rover Coopers, a mint Wolseley Hornet, a 1965 Morris 1275 'S', my 1964 rally car, an ex-works Cooper 'S' awaiting full restoration, a Mk 1 shell being prepared for historic rallying, and about 4 other Minis in varying states of repair/restoration inc. a 1963 Woody Traveller for which I am building a 1275 'S' Mk. 1 engine and gearbox.
I love building engines, but hate doing bodywork, so Chris does all mine, including my rally damage (well, no-one's perfect!).
Give him a call, Dave.
I'll be seeing Chris today or tomorrow, so I'll tell him to expect your call.
I'll come over and meet you when you are there if I can - maybe I'll bring my '64 Cooper 'S' Rally car over and give you a trip in it, if you can face being driven around by a 62 year old grandfather who's been rallying seriously for 40+ years!
I'll come over and meet you when you are there if I can - maybe I'll bring my '64 Cooper 'S' Rally car over and give you a trip in it, if you can face being driven around by a 62 year old grandfather who's been rallying seriously for 40+ years!
Thanks Cooperman
I spoke to Chris yesterday and told him I'd like to bring my car up for him to see.
I said I'd bring it up Saturday, so if you can make it up then it would be great to be taken out in it!!
I'm going to hire out a trailer and tow the car up there, I just want to know now exactly where I stand in terms of what needs to be done.
I told Chris I would confirm that I am coming Sat and ill do the same for you.
Does ur e-mail work from the members directory?
I spoke to Chris yesterday and told him I'd like to bring my car up for him to see.
I said I'd bring it up Saturday, so if you can make it up then it would be great to be taken out in it!!
I'm going to hire out a trailer and tow the car up there, I just want to know now exactly where I stand in terms of what needs to be done.
I told Chris I would confirm that I am coming Sat and ill do the same for you.
Does ur e-mail work from the members directory?
Hi Dave and Plotloss,
Chris is the besy Mini bodywork bloke I know. His hourly rates are very sensible too.
Dave, if you make it very late morning I'll see you at Chris', but I have Mini Magazine coming at 09-30 on sat to do a feature and photo-shoot on my '64 Cooper 'S' and Geoff Loos' 1971 full rally perpared 1275 GT, for which Chris did all the body restoration.
Chris has my home number and my mobile, so just give me a call and I'll come over. It's only 10 mins from my home to Chris' workshop
Chris is the besy Mini bodywork bloke I know. His hourly rates are very sensible too.
Dave, if you make it very late morning I'll see you at Chris', but I have Mini Magazine coming at 09-30 on sat to do a feature and photo-shoot on my '64 Cooper 'S' and Geoff Loos' 1971 full rally perpared 1275 GT, for which Chris did all the body restoration.
Chris has my home number and my mobile, so just give me a call and I'll come over. It's only 10 mins from my home to Chris' workshop
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