Body kit glue ??
Discussion
Hi. I know this arent lax power fourm.
i just wanted to know the glue (super duper wuper glue)that can fit rubber/plastic body kit to my car without drilling
Yes i got myself sportspack arches, and 13x7" superlite wheels + locking nuts + brand new bridge stone penzora(sp?) 720 tires for £375
I dont wanna ruin my car body work by drilling numberous holes, but dont mind ruin the paint as long there is no holes.
I might conisder swapping those for smaller wheels/arches that dont require drilling.
know any glue that can do the job ?
thanks
Jay
i just wanted to know the glue (super duper wuper glue)that can fit rubber/plastic body kit to my car without drilling
Yes i got myself sportspack arches, and 13x7" superlite wheels + locking nuts + brand new bridge stone penzora(sp?) 720 tires for £375
I dont wanna ruin my car body work by drilling numberous holes, but dont mind ruin the paint as long there is no holes.
I might conisder swapping those for smaller wheels/arches that dont require drilling.
know any glue that can do the job ?
thanks
Jay
I have just done some bodywork mods on my car that used fibreglass, which had been painted first. Obviously the two polished surfaces (metal bodywork/fibreglass panel) were not ideal for mating together.
Speaking to a chap who had done something similar he said he just went down his local B&Q type shop and looked around what they had to offer and used one of those formulas.
So, in the end i used a normal DIY sealant type glue (not silicone sealant but it looks similar and uses one of those trigger dispenser thingys). It was especially for non porous surfaces (the tube is around a friends house, but i can get the exact name later) and would stick your kid brother to the ceiling! So far so good. The mods have been on for a few weeks now and have sat in heavy rain/driven on bumpy raods etc. No shift yet :touchwood:
As an aside i did use self tappers into special clips which slip onto the fibreglass, but this was more to hold up the body pieces so i could attend to bracing teh part elsewhere. You would only need a few discreet 3-4mm holes around the panel....
Speaking to a chap who had done something similar he said he just went down his local B&Q type shop and looked around what they had to offer and used one of those formulas.
So, in the end i used a normal DIY sealant type glue (not silicone sealant but it looks similar and uses one of those trigger dispenser thingys). It was especially for non porous surfaces (the tube is around a friends house, but i can get the exact name later) and would stick your kid brother to the ceiling! So far so good. The mods have been on for a few weeks now and have sat in heavy rain/driven on bumpy raods etc. No shift yet :touchwood:
As an aside i did use self tappers into special clips which slip onto the fibreglass, but this was more to hold up the body pieces so i could attend to bracing teh part elsewhere. You would only need a few discreet 3-4mm holes around the panel....
Just use some Normal Super Glue Or see if your mum has any Old Tape indoors, don't bother reading the instructions just stick the bits where they look best. If you paint The Body Kit and havn't got any of your cars colour in the garage just use any old colour available, maybe some spare from when you painted the fence and just say it's a chameleon colour
Mike
Mike
vrooom said:
[snip]Yes i got myself sportspack arches, and 13x7" superlite wheels + locking nuts + brand new bridge stone penzora(sp?) 720 tires for £375 [/snip]
Good price !!
vrooom said:
[snip]I dont wanna ruin my car body work by drilling numberous holes, but dont mind ruin the paint as long there is no holes.
I might conisder swapping those for smaller wheels/arches that dont require drilling.
[/snip]
You will have do some metal work to get these wheels and tyres to fit. They will foul the front edge of the front wing with a little bit of lock. There are many ways of doing this, some people project a curve from the top of the existing arch (about where the wing indicator is mounted) to a point between 1/2 and 1 inch further forward at the front. There are "proper" Rover templates for fitting the sportspack arches if you want.
If you don't want to drill the bodywork I think you want to swap the wheels for some nice 5 inch wide 12 inch rims with 165 Falkan/Yoko's. As for arches, what's your theme ?? Retro, race or rally then Grp 2 or Grp 5, I like Wood & Pickett for clean lines, or stick to the standard ones for cheapness.
Tigerseal (www.u-pol.com/countries/en/downloads/tds/tigerseal.pdf) is the stuff you want. Stick's like excrement to a blanket, perfect for bodykits etc.
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