t5 gearbox

[thermister]

for a winter project i was thinking of replacing my four speed with a dodgy overdrive with a t5 gearbox once i,ve got over the price of the bellhousing, the thing is as for as i can tell the t5 box comes with three different gear stick position so which position is the one for my taimar?

[thermister]

well adrian now that idea has been kicked in the head what else can i do over the long winter nights? i can't sit in front of the telly or i might even have to talk to the wife

[TVR_owner]

thermister said:

for a winter project i was thinking of replacing my four speed with a dodgy overdrive with a t5 gearbox once i,ve got over the price of the bellhousing, the thing is as for as i can tell the t5 box comes with three different gear stick position so which position is the one for my taimar?

Mark
I'll be fitting a T5 variant in my race car this winter. Weight, parts availability for the type 5 and the need for a good close ratio gear being the reasons. Typr 9 no use due to power.

Shift should not be slow - ecrtainly not on a Sagaris , T350 or a Tamora.

I'll keep you posted as soon as I know which variant I'm using and info on prop (probably carbon) etc.

Cheers
John

[heightswitch]

TVR_owner said:

thermister said:

for a winter project i was thinking of replacing my four speed with a dodgy overdrive with a t5 gearbox once i,ve got over the price of the bellhousing, the thing is as for as i can tell the t5 box comes with three different gear stick position so which position is the one for my taimar?

Mark
I'll be fitting a T5 variant in my race car this winter. Weight, parts availability for the type 5 and the need for a good close ratio gear being the reasons. Typr 9 no use due to power.

Shift should not be slow - ecrtainly not on a Sagaris , T350 or a Tamora.

I'll keep you posted as soon as I know which variant I'm using and info on prop (probably carbon) etc.

Cheers
John

Carbon?? is that the re-cycled rust scraped from the chassis over winter then??

There is a minimum weight for the championship you know john

Metal Mickey will have to be re-christened as the flying propshaft

you will need some 6 pot calipers as per the HB car next.
Best mod over the winter could be a fuel sender unit in the tank??


N

[TVR_owner]

heightswitch said:

TVR_owner said:

thermister said:

for a winter project i was thinking of replacing my four speed with a dodgy overdrive with a t5 gearbox once i,ve got over the price of the bellhousing, the thing is as for as i can tell the t5 box comes with three different gear stick position so which position is the one for my taimar?

Mark
I'll be fitting a T5 variant in my race car this winter. Weight, parts availability for the type 5 and the need for a good close ratio gear being the reasons. Typr 9 no use due to power.

Shift should not be slow - ecrtainly not on a Sagaris , T350 or a Tamora.

I'll keep you posted as soon as I know which variant I'm using and info on prop (probably carbon) etc.

Cheers
John

Carbon?? is that the re-cycled rust scraped from the chassis over winter then??

There is a minimum weight for the championship you know john

Metal Mickey will have to be re-christened as the flying propshaft

you will need some 6 pot calipers as per the HB car next.
Best mod over the winter could be a fuel sender unit in the tank??


N

Fuel gauge....what do you mean.......

[thermister]

hi john great to see a 3000m racing in the tuscan challenge,whats your view on the rear drive shafts are you running standard,are they up to the job

[TVR_owner]

thermister said:

hi john great to see a 3000m racing in the tuscan challenge,whats your view on the rear drive shafts are you running standard,are they up to the job

I am running standard drive shafts and so far no problems.

It's good fun, but the car/driver combination is a little outpaced at the moment.

Some mods to loose some weight (should bring the car to around 860kgs) and the important addition of a decent set (and 5) ratios to play with should make the car very hard to beat in its class....need to then concentrate on the driver who could do with losing 10 kilos and gaining some fittness.

The old thing certainly gets some nice comments in the paddock.

[heightswitch]

TVR_owner said:

thermister said:

hi john great to see a 3000m racing in the tuscan challenge,whats your view on the rear drive shafts are you running standard,are they up to the job

I am running standard drive shafts and so far no problems.

It's good fun, but the car/driver combination is a little outpaced at the moment.

Some mods to loose some weight (should bring the car to around 860kgs) and the important addition of a decent set (and 5) ratios to play with should make the car very hard to beat in its class....need to then concentrate on the driver who could do with losing 10 kilos and gaining some fittness.

The old thing certainly gets some nice comments in the paddock.

Nah! Wheels are too small

N.

[TVR_owner]

Adrian@ said:

How many miles has your car done on these driveshafts John? What did Hexham do with them prior to your racing it.
Adrian@

I dont know Adrian is the answer to both questions. But what is the concern with M series driveshafts?

The S-Turbo has never had a failure in all its years sprinting and being tracked (gearbox main shaft but thats another story).

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

When the 4 spd OD went bang in my tuscan 3 years ago. I ( read Dulford Autmotive !) replaced it with a T5. It has transformed the car.

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

Bloody hell, now youre asking!!

let me come back to you on it. My tuscan is 1970 if that helps and I know that dulford had to fabricate the bellhousing to fit.

[TVR_owner]

Adrian,
Does the Burton Alloy bellhousing not save you modifying the original?

[TVR_owner]

Adrian@ said:

TVR_owner said:

Adrian,
Does the Burton Alloy bellhousing not save you modifying the original?

Can I sort of pass at that....to my knowledge, it depends on the box, whether the input shaft is long enough, on 2 of my conversions (both using the Burton alloy bell housing, I presume) I have had to create a bespoke rear spigot bearing, yes, there was a couple of MM support into the OE bearing BUT not enough to push 200BHP IMHO. This is also where the release bearing carrier also needs extending too, because when the clutch plate is worn the release bearing could drop off and jam between the cover fingers and the end of carrier. (One of the knowledge issues is that I have never been asked to source the boxes on the conversions I have done and what comes to me is what I have work with) Adrian@

Edited to say...that is why I have the conversion plate system, so that I can machine either the front or rear face (then add the conversion plate) to set the height correctly in relation to the input shaft that I have to work with.

Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 10th September 11:17

I run a hydraulic clutch Adrian so should be less work I think...

[TVR_owner]

Adrian@ said:

John, You are sort of right, T5 hydraulic clutch unit comprises of the extension and seal for the input shaft, but as I have never got to grips with the versions of the boxes, which one has the correct length input shaft and therefore, have enough of it pushing into the spigot.....I am sure that you will problem solve it...but as you say, speedo and clutch issues make it easier on a race car.
Adrian@

I'll keep you posted!

[TVR_owner]

A.G. said:

TVR_owner said:

Does the Burton Alloy bellhousing not save you modifying the original?

You can get a Burton or Ric Wood bellhousing, which is the route I took. The T5 transformed the car.

A.G.
A few questions if you dont mind.

Did you go for the T5 or the later T55 with the gear lever further forward?
Did you stick with standard ratios?
Any issues ith the spigot bearing?
Could you retain the original starter-motor?

Cheers
John

[TVR_owner]

Many thanks sir!
Sounds like a should have very few problems then. I will be going for a close ratio T55 with a 0,87 5th. This will help with the short gearing I have now (care of 15" wheels and slicks that are around 30-35 profile!).

A good weight saving with that box compared to the type 5 with steel B/H.

With a little bit of luck, it should be nicely installed for ruuning in and testing at Oulton on the 10th October - racing on the 11th.

[Slow M]

Please be aware that there are two types of T5 and that the closer ratio version, to the best of my knowledge, was designed for use in 4 cylinder cars. I believe this version has narrower gears and, thus, is not able to withstand higher torque loads. There are close ratios available for the stronger version. Also, the T5 in my V8 Ford Rustang has "composite" synchroniser rings. I am convinced that this is a misnomer as they must really be made of compressed compost. I suspect that these synchros are why Adrian feels it to ba a slow shifting box.
B.

[status]

Slow M said:

Please be aware that there are two types of T5 and that the closer ratio version, to the best of my knowledge, was designed for use in 4 cylinder cars. I believe this version has narrower gears and, thus, is not able to withstand higher torque loads. There are close ratios available for the stronger version. Also, the T5 in my V8 Ford Rustang has "composite" synchroniser rings. I am convinced that this is a misnomer as they must really be made of compressed compost. I suspect that these synchros are why Adrian feels it to ba a slow shifting box.
B.

Some T5's also have a different number of splines to others (eg Cosworth are different to the ones in Rustangs I believe). Both my '88 and a '94 boxes feel and shift like they're filled with old porridge, despite having shiny red ATF in. There's a useful summary of some T5 variants here.

cheers
Nick

Edited by status on Friday 12th September 21:12

[status]

Adrian@ said:

Nick,
MANY thanks for that, being a TVR man not a gearbox man, that information helps, it explains both the gear shift being slow and the input shaft issues that I have overcome. What peeved me was that on my 1st conversion I had a batch of cross-member brackets, and mounting brackets created to suit that version (pretty parts...plasma cut and well thought out, time consuming) and on each conversion I then had to butcher/modify these parts. On Johns race car the speedo/handbrake issues are not a problem, but for a cable drive speedo to be fitted easily, this then puts the box into the era of long throw and the fibre lined syncro.
I have yet to drive my turbo with the T55, but mine was a considered purchase with a chosen gear set and LSD ratio change to suit, (crossing fingers)
Adrian@

No problem, glad the info was useful. Out of interest, I had the Mustang out for a thrash on Sunday and the T5 doesn't feel nearly so sluggish when you're pressing on. Maybe it's because the Ford 302 has a heavy flywheel, and so the rev change between gears is slower than engines with less metal flying around, but the gearbox seemed to work great (or maybe I didn't notice thru the red mist ). So hopefully my other one will be fine in the Taimar too!

cheers
Nick

[richard sails]

Adrian@ said:

decent HD grease-able UJ units last a lot longer.
Adrian@

You are not kidding, I bought spare UJ's off you when I changed my rear wheel bearing a couple of years ago because I was going through a full set a year, changed them all at the same time and they are still fitted and showing no signs of wear....