Urgetnt furniture care question - oak table
Discussion
I would leave it to dry and then use refined linseed oil.
Test some on the underside first to make sure its the colour you desire as some linseed can be quite yellow.
Your missus should have just used a clean lint free cloth or old clean T shirt to wipe the excess oil . NOT FAIRY LIQUID AND WATER..
mind you my wife once cleaned bird poo off the bonnet of her RED car with a bucket of BLEACH and a mop!!!! She had a lovely pink hood.....
Test some on the underside first to make sure its the colour you desire as some linseed can be quite yellow.
Your missus should have just used a clean lint free cloth or old clean T shirt to wipe the excess oil . NOT FAIRY LIQUID AND WATER..
mind you my wife once cleaned bird poo off the bonnet of her RED car with a bucket of BLEACH and a mop!!!! She had a lovely pink hood.....

It would appear that your missus has removed the oil and dampened the oak, causing the grain to raise.
Best approach - very light sand just to remove the raised grain and wipe down with a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Then a re-oil. That is probably what they did in the finishing shop in the first place.
Next time, she'll probably use Pledge or something... god forbid.
Best approach - very light sand just to remove the raised grain and wipe down with a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Then a re-oil. That is probably what they did in the finishing shop in the first place.
Next time, she'll probably use Pledge or something... god forbid.
SeeFive said:
It would appear that your missus has removed the oil and dampened the oak, causing the grain to raise.
Best approach - very light sand just to remove the raised grain and wipe down with a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Then a re-oil. That is probably what they did in the finishing shop in the first place.
Next time, she'll probably use Pledge or something... god forbid.
My wife once cleaned a Cheese plant in her bosses office with pledge....!!!Best approach - very light sand just to remove the raised grain and wipe down with a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Then a re-oil. That is probably what they did in the finishing shop in the first place.
Next time, she'll probably use Pledge or something... god forbid.
Its becoming a bit of a theme this with my wifes innapropriate cleaning routines..??
I would be wary of Teak oil as its not fine enough for indoor furniture you need something that will not colour..
Care instructions for oiled wood surfaces
We recommend that oiled surfaces be treated with wax oil before use and periodically as needed. This is especially in regard to the top surface, in order to maintain the surface’s resistance against liquids, stains, and scratches. Use drying wax oil from a furniture retailer.
- Lightly sand the surface along the wood fibres with a fine grained sandpaper (400 grit)
- Apply oil evenly. Sand the oiled surface again
- Wipe up the excess oil after 30-60 minutes
- Let dry for approximately 24 hours
- Caution; due to the risk of spontaneous combustion, the oiled cloth should be burned or thoroughly soaked in water after use
Be aware that excess oil on newly purchased furniture of on furniture recently treated at home can leave stains on textiles such as; table clothes sheets, wall paper etc. carefully inspect the furniture before using and wipe up all possible excess oil.
Edited by mark69sheer on Sunday 7th September 09:23
Danish oil would be preferable to Teak Oil.
Tung oil is also good - you can mix it out with 50-60% white spirit and apply several coats. Advantage is that Tung oil is food safe and very resilient once applied; downside is that it can be a bit yellow; depends how dark the wood is. Also takes ages to dry fully.
Go for danish oil :-)
Tung oil is also good - you can mix it out with 50-60% white spirit and apply several coats. Advantage is that Tung oil is food safe and very resilient once applied; downside is that it can be a bit yellow; depends how dark the wood is. Also takes ages to dry fully.
Go for danish oil :-)
Pikey's just been through a similar thing though with walnut rather than oak.
Choose your colour here:

Choose your colour here:


anonymous said:
[redacted]
If a female does something with good intentions, the outcome is always unremittingly positive. This is irrespective of what actually happens. If questioned they have the perfect get-out clause of "I didn't mean to". It then falls to the men-folk to: 1 - make it all better, 2 - praise them for their help, 3 - never mention what a pile of crap it was that really happened.from experince i would allow the table to rest for few days get used to the temps of the house , after all its realy wood you will get some movment as it adjust .
maybe have a read through this thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
there shouldnt be no need to sand it to be honest , just give few more coats on top , depending on what oak it is , when you say it wiped of are you sure the manufacture hadnt stained the wood rather than oil it .
maybe have a read through this thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
there shouldnt be no need to sand it to be honest , just give few more coats on top , depending on what oak it is , when you say it wiped of are you sure the manufacture hadnt stained the wood rather than oil it .
I would suggest to leave at least 24 hours. Sand if needed and re oil with Danish oil. This will refinish it.
Just oil is ok, but not the best form of finish. In fact, I would go as far as saying it isn't a finish at all, more a process in the finishing.
I would also recommend waxing it with a clear wax to give it a chance of survival.
Please look at my web site to see I know something about wood.
Just oil is ok, but not the best form of finish. In fact, I would go as far as saying it isn't a finish at all, more a process in the finishing.
I would also recommend waxing it with a clear wax to give it a chance of survival.
Please look at my web site to see I know something about wood.
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