Stage 1 woes!

[vrooom]

Hiya, i got Stage 1 kit with RC40 center exit backbox for 1275cc

Im pissed off after 7 hour worth of part dont fit perfect.

The heat sheild cant fit in as the exhaust/mainfold is in way. Can i chuck the heat sheild out of the way or is that mandaory items ? I could modify little.

and the choke pully touches the mini spares mainfold
What can i do about that ?

The car rev very highly when i start the engine, and back fire through carbrettor. as far i know, i understand there is air leak ?

Im running HIF38 carbuttor.

What can i do to fix that ?

And the center exit exhaust wont fit snugly coz of back of subframe "label" mount, can i cut it off ?

Thanks

Jay

[tuscan_v8]

Have u got a manual?

[WildfireS3]

vrooom said:

Hiya, i got Stage 1 kit with RC40 center exit backbox for 1275cc Im pissed off after 7 hour worth of part dont fit perfect. The heat sheild cant fit in as the exhaust/mainfold is in way. Can i chuck the heat sheild out of the way or is that mandaory items ? I could modify little.

You can't throw it away as you will have no where to put the throttle cable. The problem may be that your spacer block is too thin. Try and get a fatter spacer block and see if this helps. Modifying it, maybe you could bend it a bit, but I wouldn't, if you distort it you will not get a perfect seal.

vrooom said:

and the choke pully touches the mini spares mainfold What can i do about that ?

Again a fatter spacer block will raise the shield + carb away from the manifold.

vrooom said:

The car rev very highly when i start the engine, and back fire through carbrettor. as far i know, i understand there is air leak ?

The fact that your heat shield is fouling the exhaust mainfold probably means that there is not a perfect seal, hence the air leak. Also make sure the flanges on the exhaust maniflod are the same thickness as the iones on the inlet manifold. If they are not, you will have to cut some washers in half to boost up the other side. Or the nut will not be putting on equal pressure on both of the maniflods and you will have an air leak.

Have you remembered all the gaskets? Should be 3 for the carb. To check for an air leak get a tube, stick on end in your ear and move theother around the joins, hyou will hear a hissing if there is a leak. Have you reconnected the vacuum advance?

vrooom said:

Im running HIF38 carbuttor.

You are under carbed. Get a HIF 44 make sure you also get the correct heat shield for it.. Sorry can't help with the needle.

vrooom said:

And the center exit exhaust wont fit snugly coz of back of subframe "label" mount, can i cut it off ?

Do you mean the middle exhaust mount? the ones behind the cotton reels? Or are you using rubber band mounts?No you can't cut it off. You can un bolt it, but cutting it off would be pointless when you can just take it off. But again I wouldn't reccomend it. The exhaust maounts help steady the engine, and if you take it off, you run the risk of increased failure of engine mounts and the other exhaust mounts. Maybe it is bent? Try moving it up as it is mounted on a rubber block then putting the clamp on.

Any other problems give me a mail and I'll try and help.

[Mr2Mike]

WildfireS3 said:

The exhaust maounts help steady the engine, and if you take it off, you run the risk of increased failure of engine mounts and the other exhaust mounts.

You shouldn't rely on the exhaust to work as an engine stabiliser, this just leads to leaking/cracked exhausts and in the case of standard items, broken manifolds. The exhaust mountings are there to support the exhaust only.

To be honest I hardly understood a word of the OP's post about the exhaust. What on earth is the rear label mount?

[WildfireS3]

I think he means the one that sits hangs in the middle of the car on the big squareish rubber block.

I know you shouldn't use the exhaust to stabilise the engine, but it does help, especially with the front one breaking off all the time. Just saying that due to engine rock, with just the cotton reel mounts on then all other bushes take the extra strain.

Best bet is to fit the gear box satbiliser bar and then the ultimate engine steady.

Here endeth th thread hi jack.

[Paul V]

I’d bolt the carb up with the heat shield to you’re original manifold, then bend the heat shield back a bit, clamping it to the old manifold will help ensure the plate doesn’t distort when you bend it, this worked on my car.

I’ve found that carb, email me your address and I’ll send it up to you. Once it’s in place you should be able to get the car running right. You might need the spacer block and heat shield from the HIF44 as well?

[WildfireS3]

IIRC spacers block on the HIF 44 and 38 have same diameter hole (44mm)?

[Paul V]

Yeah I know that some had 44 spacers but I’m sure I’ve seen some with 38 as well.

[WildfireS3]

Paul V said:

Yeah I know that some had 44 spacers but I’m sure I’ve seen some with 38 as well.

Really? I could have done with one of those a year or so back. Swithced to twin 12 1/4s instead. Cost a bomb in everything, parts, fuel, air filter (twin K&Ns). Lots more low end torque. Not that I had a lot to start with.