Any plumbers about?
Discussion
Hoping for a bit of plumbing help. I have a toilet cistern that has started leaking from the isolation valve which is located just before it enters the cistern.

This above connects to the the bottom of this.

So i purchased these new items, however on fitting the isolation valve it strips the threads on the ballcock.
When I disconnected the main feed pipe from the other side of the isolation valve and offered up the isolation valve to the ballcock it appears that it's not fully sealing when tight.
I've tried lowering the height of the cistern to no avail. Running out of ideas apart from a bodge job of silicone sealant or cutting 5mm of the bottom of the ballcock to shorten the length to the threads

This above connects to the the bottom of this.

So i purchased these new items, however on fitting the isolation valve it strips the threads on the ballcock.
When I disconnected the main feed pipe from the other side of the isolation valve and offered up the isolation valve to the ballcock it appears that it's not fully sealing when tight.
I've tried lowering the height of the cistern to no avail. Running out of ideas apart from a bodge job of silicone sealant or cutting 5mm of the bottom of the ballcock to shorten the length to the threads
i think you could do with some teflon tape
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
it's usually meant for gas fittings, but could solve the problem. if not, silicone is your friend
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
it's usually meant for gas fittings, but could solve the problem. if not, silicone is your friend
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?
Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
TheEnd said:
christ man, how many leaks do you think he's got?B17NNS said:
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?
Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Well it's been fitted like this since we moved in. There was sealant over the outside so there must have been a problem before, So it's a bad arrangement of connectors then?Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Nipped up the nut and it stripped the threads, so i replaced both parts.
What should i be using then?
are you saying you are trying to fix the isolation valve to the bottom of the 2nd pic if so no wonder its leaking lol
what you should have is copper leading upto the toilet then a isolation valve then another bit of copper out the other side
one of these on top of the copper that scres to the bottom of your new inner bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50627/Plumbing/Push-...
what you should have is copper leading upto the toilet then a isolation valve then another bit of copper out the other side
one of these on top of the copper that scres to the bottom of your new inner bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50627/Plumbing/Push-...
B17NNS said:
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?
Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Really don't know how the isolating valve is connecting to that cistern valve of yours. Nothing else apart from a 1/2" bsp tap connector should connect to it.Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?
I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Riggernut said:
markiem8 said:
Sorry my fault, had another look at the valve. That is the one fitted and I've bought the same valve.ChrisRS said:
Riggernut said:
Have you got a fibre washer between the isolation valve and the plastic 1/2" bsp connector? This may be your problemRiggernut said:
ChrisRS said:
Riggernut said:
Have you got a fibre washer between the isolation valve and the plastic 1/2" bsp connector? This may be your problemEdited to add, any chance of pics of the bits you purchased?
Edited by ChrisRS on Saturday 30th August 23:36
Right, the gap between the valve and ballcock is to great. The nut is stripping two threads only. I can't lower the cistern anymore and i can only just pull up the pipe and get on to the first thread. Hence when i tighten it up it strips the thread.
How else can i extend the distance?
How else can i extend the distance?
Riggernut said:
Right, the gap between the valve and ballcock is to great. The nut is stripping two threads only. I can't lower the cistern anymore and i can only just pull up the pipe and get on to the first thread. Hence when i tighten it up it strips the thread.
How else can i extend the distance?
You need to get yourself one of these, comes with an isolation valve, 15mm compression or push-fit end on one end and a 1/2 tap connector on the other end.How else can i extend the distance?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18417/Plumbing/Flexi...
Gassing Station | The Pie & Piston Archive | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




