A bit of help needed..........

[S1 Roly]

Hi chaps - apologies in advance for the idiot's guide questions(!), but there's a couple of small jobs I need to get on with for the S1 and just need a bit of advice.

Appears to be a v. small oil leak coming from the rocker cover bolts on the left-hand bank, so I assume the gasket's perished. Anybody know where I can order a pair, and if when replacing the gasket on the right bank, whether the alternator has to come off - and if so, what sort of tension should I look for on the alternator belt when refitting....

Also, I'd like to flush out the cooling system - the water in the swirl pot looks pretty murky and I don't know if it's had the right amount of anti-freeze/coolant added. Could anybody tell me where I need to drain the system, the best way to flush it, where to refill, and what the ratio of anti-freeze/water should be? I've never encountered a swirl pot before, not too sure what it does to be honest.....!

I did both these jobs on my old MG BGT, but obviously the S is a bit more complicated and I could just do with a bit of advice to help my confidence in reaching for the spanners at the weekend......

Any advice gratefully received.

Bests,
Roly

[QuiteQuietCerb]

gasket is from a 2.8 granada, get it from partco or motorfactors etc, the S is extremely simple. i doubt the gasket has gone, maybe unscrew the rocker cover and tighet again. concnerning flushing the colling system, any old garage will do the job. I used to use ford specialists as everything on the S is ford

Edited by QuiteQuietCerb on Wednesday 27th August 14:49

[mikee boy]

I'd disconnect the bottom rad hose either side of the metal tube (by passenger's side wheel) and then flush/refill. There's a recognised procedure in the handbook to remove airlocks that MUST be followed, if you don't have it I can get it for you from my handbook.

Antifreeze ratio of a normal Sierra should do the trick (can't remember but 2:1 rings a bell?).

Try tweeking the existing gasket first. Mine seemed to shrink considerably after they were fitted and needed a little nip to get them sealing again. Some have metal dowels in them to stop overtightening so the nip might not work if these are fitted.

[Barkychoc]

The problem with rocker cover gaskets is that once oil has leaked through capillary action continues to draw the oil through even if you tighten it up - you are best to replace the gaskets.
They are on ebay or I guess most motor factors will have them or be able to get them.
The biggest mistake made is to do them up too tight - manufacturers spec is really not very tight at all if you don't have a torque wrench.

And make sure the flanges of the rocker covers are flat - they may have got bent from being done up too tight in the past.

If you want to get scientific --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capillary_action

Chris

At least I think it is capillary action - hopefully you know what I mean it may be called something else

Edited by Barkychoc on Wednesday 27th August 15:54

[S1 Roly]

Cheers - will probably look to replace the gaskets. Mikee would you mind very much letting me know what the correct procedure for rad flushing is - I guess there's some sort of air bleeding involved after?

On another note, think also the clutch could be slipping slightly. Reverse is a bit hit and miss, although with the exception of 1st gear (which tends to be a bit stiff), all the others tend to be okay. Is there anything I can do to test this out?

[M&S]

Would definately go down the new gasket route, tightning in an area that is leaking on old gaskets usually leads to a leak elswhere. Best to use a non setting sealing compound like Hylomar universal blue, should keep you sealed up for a while. Good luck

[Barkychoc]

S1 Roly said:

On another note, think also the clutch could be slipping slightly. Reverse is a bit hit and miss, although with the exception of 1st gear (which tends to be a bit stiff), all the others tend to be okay. Is there anything I can do to test this out?

This sounds more like the opposite - clutch drag not clutch slip.
Thats the bad news.
The good (ok better not good) is that it is likely to be the clutch hydraulics at fault - it may just need bleeding or worse components replacing - but you don't have to take the engine or gearbox out to do either.

[mikee boy]

S1 Roly

I'm heading down south until Monday. If it can't wait until then hopefully somebody else can let you know what they have printed in their Owner's Handbook.

Cheers

[M&S]

Have you got much travel on the pedal, if not could be the hydraulics, master or slave. Worth trying to bleed the system first. Hopefully its this and not slipping.
Testing for a slipping clutch, try putting it under load, does it hold on the clutch ok on a steep hill. Had a car that would rev higher than normal when accelerating, was more noticable at slower speeds in top gear. Clutch needed changing on that one.
good luck

[S1 Roly]

Cheers Ian, Chris - I think it's okay in terms of revs/load, so I think I'll try bleeding the system first. Not a job I've done before - is there a recommended way of doing this for the S? Also what components am I likely to need to replace.

Cheers Mikee, no great hurry and thanks again

Thanks all for your patience when dealing with my repetitive questions!

[Barkychoc]

Get an eezibleed kit from Halfords - can someone confirm there is a lid in there that fits the TVR clutch reservoir?

Also you will need some brake and clutch fluid (Halfords again).

Follow the instructions - you set it up and open the bleed valve and the fluid comes out, when clean fluid & no bubbles come out tighten it up again.

Job done.

[tvrgit]

Barkychoc said:

Get an eezibleed kit from Halfords - can someone confirm there is a lid in there that fits the TVR clutch reservoir?

Also you will need some brake and clutch fluid (Halfords again).

Follow the instructions - you set it up and open the bleed valve and the fluid comes out, when clean fluid & no bubbles come out tighten it up again.

Job done.

Have to say that I never ever got on with the Eezibleed kits - always always ended up with fluid pishing out everywhere.

I bought a hand-operated vacuum pump - open nipple, pump the trigger to suck clean fluid through, close nipple, empty out old fluid.

Pump also comes in handy for hoovering up little inaccessible spillages (ooh er missus) or for removing excess fluids if you've topped up your swirl pot or brake reservoir too far.

Also if you put your thumb over the end and pump it then take your thumb off it goes pop. Hours of fun for all the family.

[Barkychoc]

Ah well I get on with it OK - I guess one mans treasure is another mans trash!

I found the advice in the instructions to let most of the air out of the spare to pressurise it at low pressure is essential - otherwise a brake fuild shower seems to result!

[mep12345]

Barkychoc said:

otherwise a brake fuild shower seems to result!

Been there, done that!!!! I now use eldest son on clutch/brake pedal and a non return valve in a clear line attached to the bleed nipple

Edited by mep12345 on Thursday 28th August 17:34

[merky300]

I have an Eezibleed which I have had for about 15 years had caps which fitted both clutch and brake master cylinders. On the clutch I had to use two rubber seals (used one from the cap and one from the kit) to get it to seal after the initial brake fluid shower.

Tony

[tvrgit]

Barkychoc said:

I found the advice in the instructions to let most of the air out of the spare to pressurise it at low pressure is essential - otherwise a brake fuild shower seems to result!

Ahhhh!!! Yes I can see how that would help!

If I hadn't lost the instructions I'd have been laughing eh?

[Barkychoc]

I can't remember what it said - but you let it down to 8psi or something I think!

[Ragtop]

I replaced my clutch slave cylinder last winter, and I discovered that gravity was sufficient to bleed the system - just topped up the reservoir, opened the bleed nipple and out came all the bubbles. Mind you, this was a new one - yours may need a pump of the pedal to get it started if the bleed nipple is a bit clagged up. It's also an S3 - don't know if it is different to yours.

Make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry however you do it, or you'll have to start all over again.

[pringli]

back to the the rocker cover gaskets - definitely get them from a ford dealer as they come with the pins in to prevent squashing due to overtightening - they dont cost any more and are far superior.
IMHO
Easiest place to drain the coolant is from the radiator bottom hose after removing the nearside front wheel for access. After refilling there is a bleed tap on the top of the radiator (nearside again).
Fill, bleed, run, fill,bleed etc etc until its hot and no more bubbles escape.
Check frequently for a week or so for more air bubbles.

Edited by pringli on Friday 29th August 09:32

[S1 Roly]

Thanks folks - this will the first time I've attempted this, so I reckon a brake-fluid shower is probably inevitable......

Ordered the parts from Ford and should be able to have them by tomorrow - thanks again for all the advice.