Discussion
Tried out the Nitto Drag radials at the Pod today...
New best ET/MPH (still traction limited) - 13.16/108
Not far now to be a sub-teeny...
BTW my next mod is a K&N air filter, do you more experienced guys have any other suggestions for quick and dirty mods worth trying before I fit headers and get the top end ported??
Thx
New best ET/MPH (still traction limited) - 13.16/108
Not far now to be a sub-teeny...
BTW my next mod is a K&N air filter, do you more experienced guys have any other suggestions for quick and dirty mods worth trying before I fit headers and get the top end ported??
Thx
Well done, I'd forgotten that the C4s were heavier than the C5s which would make your times slower. We'll have to go up the strip together as my best is 13.11 it'll be pretty close.
What was your 60 foot time ? That'll give a good indication of how much more grip you're getting from the Nittos.
Can discuss all this at Surrey next week too !
What was your 60 foot time ? That'll give a good indication of how much more grip you're getting from the Nittos.
Can discuss all this at Surrey next week too !
hi zr1forfun. I notice you like racing your zr1. I suggest k&N filter is a good idea. In my own experience lightening the car makes no difference, for example i lightened my ZR-1 ( no carpets, no cd player, no spare wheel/jack, lightweight seats,etc) and managed 12.66 at 118mph. The next time we went drag racing i kept the interior in and the spare wheel in and managed 12.45 at 122mph, it may have just been coincidence, but even if it was this proves that making the car a little bit lighter does not gain much. Another alternative would be a tried and tested GM NOS kit. Please let me know the next time you go to santa pod, we can meet and go up together.
>> Edited by zr1 368 on Monday 15th September 20:38
>> Edited by zr1 368 on Monday 15th September 20:38
Its all worth trying different tyre pressures,revs of the line,losing weight,mods like air box's aswell,these ways are relatively cheap and easy,but sometimes elements can make a difference on times(air temp and track conditions),Nos from what i hear will shorten the life of your engine or might even kill it
,,i enquired about this and was advised to steer away from it.
Have you tried other Zr1 forums for advice like,zr1net,lt5registry,and corvette forum.
,,i enquired about this and was advised to steer away from it. Have you tried other Zr1 forums for advice like,zr1net,lt5registry,and corvette forum.
Thanks all, some food for thought there.
I thought about weight saving, but it seems that to make enough of a difference that you'd notice, you would have to lose about 200-300 lbs. I read that each 100lbs is worth ~ 0.1 in the 1/4 & my driving is not very consistent yet, so even losing 150 lbs weight might not make that much difference. I could opt for the 'David Blaine diet' (CFRP bonnet, lexan hatch, lightweight seats, no a/c etc & live in a plastic box, but I like the a/c & leather seats & having a decent stereo, namby pamby I know...
I think the area of greatest untapped potential might be in improving traction. I've heard of C4's running low 12's w/ similar HP as the ZR-1 & they have tall slicks at the rear for weight transfer & grip with skinnies on the front to reduce rolling resistance. Time may prove my theory wrong but I have a fear that the ET's won't come down much unless I solve the traction problem first. Tell me if I'm on the wrong track.
A propos, the Nitto's work best at around 20 psi. Any higher px and the whole width of the tyre is not in contact with the road. Also at 20 psi the side walls wrinkle a bit and it looks
and it scares the ricers and cossie boys.
BTW if you ever wondered, a ZR-1 will run 16.2 with the power key in 'Normal'. Don't ask me how I know
Next RWYB at the Pod - 5th October
I thought about weight saving, but it seems that to make enough of a difference that you'd notice, you would have to lose about 200-300 lbs. I read that each 100lbs is worth ~ 0.1 in the 1/4 & my driving is not very consistent yet, so even losing 150 lbs weight might not make that much difference. I could opt for the 'David Blaine diet' (CFRP bonnet, lexan hatch, lightweight seats, no a/c etc & live in a plastic box, but I like the a/c & leather seats & having a decent stereo, namby pamby I know...
I think the area of greatest untapped potential might be in improving traction. I've heard of C4's running low 12's w/ similar HP as the ZR-1 & they have tall slicks at the rear for weight transfer & grip with skinnies on the front to reduce rolling resistance. Time may prove my theory wrong but I have a fear that the ET's won't come down much unless I solve the traction problem first. Tell me if I'm on the wrong track.
A propos, the Nitto's work best at around 20 psi. Any higher px and the whole width of the tyre is not in contact with the road. Also at 20 psi the side walls wrinkle a bit and it looks
and it scares the ricers and cossie boys. BTW if you ever wondered, a ZR-1 will run 16.2 with the power key in 'Normal'. Don't ask me how I know
Next RWYB at the Pod - 5th October
It's early days yet, as you say I need to try different tyre px's and launch rpms. If I can get more traction, combined with lower air temp I might just get where I want to be.
At the moment I can't seem to launch with more than about 2500 rpms without spinning
Yes I visit the ZR1.net, LT5 registry & CorvetteForums often, like this they are great sites.
At the moment I can't seem to launch with more than about 2500 rpms without spinning
Yes I visit the ZR1.net, LT5 registry & CorvetteForums often, like this they are great sites.
I'd love to be able to launch at 2500 RPM, I get wheelspin at 1500 !
I've heard that the best technique for street cars is to get the car rolling with a moderate throttle, get the clutch fully engaged, then open the throttle wide. I've yet to try it as the red mist always comes over me and I nail it away from the line every time. Note to self: must learn patience !
I've heard that the best technique for street cars is to get the car rolling with a moderate throttle, get the clutch fully engaged, then open the throttle wide. I've yet to try it as the red mist always comes over me and I nail it away from the line every time. Note to self: must learn patience !
Hi Vettehead, does 'Competition Mode' mean the traction control is on or off? What was your best 0-60 time?
Funny thing I've found with the Nittos is that on a grippy bit of road near my house I could dump the clutch at 4000rpm with no spin (but much smell of burning clutch), yet at the Pod it still spins alot during the launch at 2500 rpm??
I still haven't worked out how to do a proper burnout yet, that may make all the difference.
Funny thing I've found with the Nittos is that on a grippy bit of road near my house I could dump the clutch at 4000rpm with no spin (but much smell of burning clutch), yet at the Pod it still spins alot during the launch at 2500 rpm??
I still haven't worked out how to do a proper burnout yet, that may make all the difference.
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